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A vegetarian thanksgiving
Even those who don’t think a Thanksgiving turkey is for the birds will enjoy these meatless dishes

By KATHY MCCANN

November 22, 2005

While a stuffed and roasted bird may take center stage at many Thanksgiving tables, the 4 percent of Americans who are vegetarians aren’t just resorting to tofu turkey or Chinese take-out on the big day. They’re creating delicious feasts that are so satisfying, even their meat-eating guests won’t miss Mr. Tom.

M Magazine asked some local chefs and markets to tell us what meatless dishes they would serve. Here are their tummy-pleasing answers.

Perfect beginning

The recipe below for Pumpkin and Butternut Squash Soup is one of the most popular at Larry’s Market in Brown Deer, according to Manager Patty Peterson, who describes it as a "nice taste of fall and of the season." This hearty, filling soup is presented here as an appetizer, but it could easily be a main course. Serve it with crusty bread or drizzle a mixture of sautéed apples, cinnamon and brown sugar over the top of the soup.

Patty’s shopping tips: Pick a butternut squash that has firm flesh and no big, soft spots on the outside. When you tap it, it should have a slightly hollow echo. For the pumpkin, buy a cooking or pie pumpkin, not the Jack-O-Lantern types sold outside the store, which are too watery and lack flavor. Cooking pumpkins are smaller, round and the meat is thicker. The soup can be made ahead and reheated.

2 pounds pumpkin, halved and strings and seeds discarded

2 pounds butternut squash, halved and strings and seeds discarded

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 large carrots, chopped

4 celery ribs, chopped

2 large onions, chopped

1 fennel bulb, chopped

12 cups vegetable broth or water

4 teaspoons cinnamon

12 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

12 teaspoon cloves

12 teaspoon ginger

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 cup pure maple syrup

1 cup heavy cream

Preheat oven to 350°F. In a shallow baking pan, arrange squash and pumpkin, cut sides up, and bake for 45 minutes, or until soft. Spoon out pulp (there should be six to eight cups) and purée in a food processor. In a large, heavy kettle, heat butter over moderate heat until foam subsides and cook remaining vegetables, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften, 10 to 12 minutes. Add broth or water, squash and pumpkin purée, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, garlic and black pepper and simmer, covered for 40 minutes. Stir in syrup and cream and simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Cool soup slightly and in a food processor or blender purée in small batches until smooth, transferring to a large bowl. Return soup to kettle and reheat if necessary. Makes about 16 cups.

On the side

According to Libby Wick, owner of Libby Montana’s in Mequon, the Baby Arugula & Romaine Salad "is a nice addition because it is a light alternative to the other fall foods."

4 large portobello mushrooms

Extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

Balsamic vinegar

1 pound baby arugula

1 pound romaine lettuce (chopped)

1 pint grape tomatoes, halved

12 cup toasted walnuts

Crumbled Wisconsin blue cheese

Brush tops and bottoms of mushrooms with olive oil, salt and pepper. Place on sheet pan and roast in oven at 425° until mushroom is soft. Set aside.

Combine one part balsamic vinegar with five parts olive oil. Thoroughly mix in blender. Salt and pepper to taste.

Combine arugula, romaine, tomatoes and walnuts. Toss with balsamic vinaigrette dressing. Portion onto salad plates. Place a half mushroom (cut into strips) on top of each salad. Top with crumbled blue cheese. 

The main course

Of the Root Vegetable Tart, Beans and Barley’s Mike Jandre, kitchen manager of the Milwaukee eatery, says, "It looks beautiful and is tasty. It’s savory and rich because of the cream, so it should please both vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike." This recipe involves several techniques — roasting, custard-making, caramelizing and pastry-making — but it is quite rewarding. It’s wonderful for holiday entertaining, because it can be made ahead and easily warmed. As long as you have two tart pans, it’s easy to double.

Root Vegetable Tart

Contributed by Mike Jandre, kitchen manager of Beans and Barley, Milwaukee.

Filling:

1/2 cup each diced sweet potato, parsnip, carrot, red potato 

1/2 teaspoon thyme

1 pinch each of rosemary and sage

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and pepper

1/2 cup grated Emmenthaler cheese (for the topping at the end)

2 tablespoon butter, caramelized

2 cups crescent-cut Spanish onions

1/2 cup sliced leeks

1/4 cup diced shallots

Combine the parsnips, carrots and both potatoes and toss them in a bowl with the oil and herbs. Spread them on a baking pan and roast at 450 degrees for 45 minutes. Check to see they don’t get too dark, and stir as necessary. Allow all the vegetables to cool, and toss them together.

Garlic cream:

1 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons mashed garlic

1 egg

In a heavy-bottomed pan, reduce the garlic and cream by about one-quarter. Let it cool for 5 minutes; then whisk in the egg.

Crust:

1 1/2 cup unbleached white flour

3/4 stick cold, unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons cold water (enough to make the dough stick together)

In a processor, pulse the flour, salt and butter until they are just blended, with small bits of butter still showing. While pulsing the processor, dribble in the water until the dough begins to form a ball. Ball it up; let it rest refrigerated for about an hour.

Spray a 9-inch tart pan with pan-release. Flatten out ball of dough, and press it into the pan. Line the shell with parchment and pie weights to keep the bottom of the shell from puffing, and bake it for about 10 minutes at 375 degrees. Remove the weights and paper, and return it to the oven for another 10 minutes.

Once the shell has cooled, remove it from the pan. Fill it with the mixture of cooked vegetables, pour the garlic cream over it, and top everything with 1/2 cup of grated Emmenthaler cheese. Bake in a 325-degree oven for about 20 minutes, or until the top is nicely browned.