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Wine 101
Varietals, regions, appellations - oh my!

By HUTCH RENK

October 2005

As wine steward of the Milwaukee ChopHouse, Hutch Renk plans and structures the wine list, provides wine training for waitstaff and serves as an expert for guests.


It’s easy to feel inadequate when wine enthusiasts start talking about their drinkable passions. Varietals. Regions. Appellations. It can make you more dizzy than drinking a bottle of Pinot. But once you know the basics, you’ll have a working knowledge to carry on intelligent wine conversation.

Types of wines Varietals are wines named after their grape variety rather than the region where the grapes are grown. In Europe, wines are usually named after the region in which the grapes are grown (Bordeaux, Chianti, Champagne). In most of the rest of the world, wines are generally labeled with the name of the grape variety the wine is made from (Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir). Europeans often have regulations controlling their labeling. For example, Pinot Noir is the only red grape allowed to be grown in most of the Burgundy region. As non-European countries establish reputations for the wines of certain regions, they often add the region’s name to the varietal name; for example, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon or Columbia Valley Merlot.

Appellation appreciation Appellation refers to the region where the variety of a wine’s grape is grown. The term "appellation" is French; it refers to a viticultural region distinguished by geographical features, which produce wines with shared characteristics. The idea is the soil, climate, sun, water quality and contour of a region combine to produce a style of wine that can’t be duplicated. Wine tasting is the study of how geographical features affect varieties of grapes, and how those factors manifest in wine. The next time you enjoy a robust Zinfandel, pay attention to where it comes from. Later, you’ll be able to select another label from the same appellation, and you’ll notice subtle characteristics the two wines share. With this understanding, you’ll be able to try wines from the same appellation with confidence they’ll suit your taste.

Know your wineries It’s smart to learn about the winery that produces your favorite wines — find little-known facts about the history of their vineyards or some anecdote about the proprietor or winemaker. A Milwaukee ChopHouse guest recently wondered aloud about the portraits gracing the Adelsheim winery labels. They’re portraits of friends created by one of the founders. Read the back of labels; you may find interesting tidbits about your favorite wine.