Milwaukee’s landscape is changing, and with it comes a wide
variety of dining experiences to choose from.
The executive chefs who head up these local restaurant gems are
varied, too. Some have had formal training at top culinary schools,
while others started out as dishwashers and scrubbed and soaked their
way up as they gained knowledge and skill.
What each has in common, though, is a love of food, the need to be
creative, the dedication to preparing meals that keep customers coming
back for more and the fact that they work at 10 of the city’s most
upscale (i.e., expensive) dining destinations.
Read on to learn what keeps these Milwaukee chefs on the top of the
food chain.
JARVIS WILLIAMS
Carnevor, 724 N. Milwaukee St.
age: 25 hometown: Milwaukee kitchen upbringing: He’s worked at
the Mohonk Mountain House in New Paltz, New York, and in the Milwaukee
area for the Bartolotta group — Ristorante Bartolotta (Wauwatosa),
Lake Park Bistro and Bacchus. inspiration: "To consistently
satisfy myself with beautiful dishes and trends." last meal on
earth: Chicken wings, blue cheese dressing, Tabasco sauce and a
20-ounce rib eye from Carnevor. culinary philosophy: "Serve hot
food hot, cold food cold." best restaurant memory: "Getting
off work at Mohonk and going out with co-workers to watch the sunset
over Lake Mohonk."
ADAM SIEGEL
Bacchus, 925 E. Wells St.
age: 34 hometown: Highland Park, Ill. kitchen upbringing: Mentors
include Paul Bartolotta (Spiaggia, Chicago), Julian Serrano (Masa’s,
San Francisco) and Valentino Marcatelli (San Domennico, Italy).
inspiration: "Having fun and pleasing guests." last meal on
earth: "High-end would be a meal prepared by Thomas Keller at the
French Laundry in Napa Valley, midline would be Hahn’s Korean BBQ
pork sandwich in San Francisco, and comfort food would be the ultimate
PBJ sandwich with my kids." culinary philosophy: "Simplicity
and freshness." best restaurant memory: "Hosting Chef
Jacques Pepin at Lake Park Bistro, cooking for Julia Child at Masa’s,
and meeting my wife at Olives in Washington, D.C."
MARC BIANCHINI
Osteria De Mondo, 1028 E. Juneau Ave.
age: 36 hometown: Dix Hills, New York kitchen upbringing:
Traditional Italian family. inspiration: "My father. He wasn’t
the cook in the family. He was the foodie ... the one who introduced
me to fine dining as a very young boy. He was always like my
benchmark." last meal on earth: "Bianchini Christmas Eve
dinner — baked clams, spaghetti with crab sauce, shrimp oreganata.
Some type of fish is included, too. Sometimes it’s lobster, sea bass
or something like that, and always roasted chestnuts for
Christmas." culinary philosophy: "Do not over think or add
too much to any dish." best restaurant memory: "San Domenico
in Imola, Italy. It’s just a great restaurant. You walk in, you’re
greeted by a whole bunch of people ... It takes five hours to eat. The
service is great. The food is simple but elegant."
JASON
GORMAN
Dream Dance, 1721 W. Canal St.
age: 36 hometown: Chicago kitchen upbringing: "I’ve spent 21
years in the restaurant business, 10 years as a chef. I began as a
dishwasher at age 15. I am self-taught, and before coming to Dream
Dance, worked in Dallas at Aquanox with Chef Stephan Pyles and at The
Grape, Dallas’ oldest wine bistro. I also worked at NAVA in Atlanta
under Chef Kevin Rathbun." inspiration: "I’m inspired by
the thought of creating memories for my guests. I also pull
inspiration from my mother, the glorious regional ingredients I work
with and the food of Wisconsin, which has led to the creation of
dishes like Lobsterwurst, the Ultimate Fish Fry and Kobe Beef
Pierogies at Dream Dance." last meal on earth: "My last meal
on earth would be shared with my wife, and would be a multicourse
dinner created by various friends, family and influences. That meal
would include my grandmother’s chicken noodle soup with pastini and
fresh grated Parmesan cheese; my mother’s bragioule; sushi from
Sushi of Gari in Soho, N.Y.; ceviche by Chef Stephen Pyles, The Mambo
King of Ceviche; a 24-hour smoked brisket by Chef Kevin Rathbun; and
Jewish apple cake made by my wife, Jennifer." culinary
philosophy: "It’s not what you cook, it’s how you do
it." best restaurant memory: "While working in Dallas in
1999, fellow chef Marc Cassel and I co-created an event called the
Tibetan Freedom Dinner. At the time, I had been doing a lot of charity
events and wanted to take on an event that would raise awareness of
this cause. I contacted Robert Thurman, director of the Tibet House
and father of actress Uma Thurman. After flying to New York to dine
with Thurman at Jean Georges at the Trump Tower to discuss holding the
dinner, the stage was set. The dinner was held at the Gypsy Tea Room
in Dallas and presided over by the best chefs in the city. The
sold-out crowd enjoyed a multicourse meal and the music of Johnny Reno
and the Lounge Lizards; Chaksum-Pa, a Tibetan opera group; Composer
Philip Glass; The Rev. Horton Heat; and a speech by Robert Thurman. It
was a one-of-a-kind experience that I will never forget. The dinner
took more than a year to prepare for."
JORDAN
SHORT
Coast, 931 E. Wisconsin Ave.
age: 35 hometown: He hails from Waukesha, but now lives in Bay
View. kitchen upbringing: "I never went to school. I learned from
Chef Jack Fisher (of Jack Fisher Catering). I learned a lot about
catering from him. The Chancery is where I learned speed and good
organization. At Eddie Martini’s I learned a lot about food."
inspiration: "I just like the work. I like to make great food,
and I like to teach. To have someone learn from me and supercede me
and be a chef on their own is really one of my finest
accomplishments." last meal on earth: "It’s got to be a
big fat rib eye or cheeseburger. Knowing me, it’s going to be the
cheeseburger." culinary philosophy: "It’s just being fresh
and being organized. As far as ingredients, you have to learn to taste
in your head." best restaurant memory: "How about when I
just covered my whole hand in boiling olive oil? I guess really the
best one is being moved up to executive chef. It beats them all."
RYAN WHITMAN
Bjonda, 7754 Harwood Ave., Wauwatosa
age: 30 hometown: Whitefish Bay kitchen upbringing: B.S. in food
service management from Johnson & Wales University and an
associate of applied science in culinary arts degree. inspiration:
"My drive comes from wanting to make people happy." last
meal on earth: "Anything with bacon and crème anglaise."
culinary philosophy: "You are only as good as the last meal you
make — and lots and lots of love for what you do." best
restaurant memory: "Anytime a guest says that this was the best
meal they’ve ever had."
SANDY D’AMATO
Sanford, 1547 N. Jackson St.
age: 56 hometown: Milwaukee kitchen upbringing: "I was in a
local apprenticeship program in Milwaukee. Then I graduated from the
Culinary Institute in Hyde Park in New York and worked in New York
City." inspiration: "Food products as I see them daily. For
example, something as simple as seeing a great tomato. Then I’ll
want to do something with them — add some cheese, olives and build a
dish around that." last meal on earth: "If it is going to be
my last meal on earth, I’d like to stretch it out a bit. I’d visit
my chef friends around the country. First stop: Kincaid’s in
Washington, D.C., for first-class clam bellies. That’s followed by
barbecue by Louis Osteen at Louis’s Restaurant & Bar in
Charleston, S.C. For dessert, the incredible pecan tart at the
Magnolia Grill in Durham, N.C." culinary philosophy:"Keep it
simple, keep it fresh and keep it seasonal. And then, have impeccable
technique and products." best restaurant memory:"It was
probably back in 1985. It was our first trip over in Europe. The place
was Guido’s in Italy. They did a tasting menu with the wine of the
region. And white truffles."
BILL
BAUMANN
Mo’s: A Place for Steaks, 720 N. Plankinton Ave.
age: 41 hometown: Milwaukee kitchen upbringing: "I started as
a dishwasher at a place called the Tosa Café at 52nd Street and North
Avenue." He went on to work at Karl Ratzsch’s in Milwaukee
under Executive Chef John Poulos, Baumann’s mentor. "Karl
Ratzsch’s was when I got into high-end cooking." inspiration:
"My mother and grandmother. I just took to learning from them in
the kitchen." At age 4, he asked his then-pregnant mother to
teach him to make French toast. And when she asked why, he told her,
"I want to make breakfast while she’s out getting the
baby." last meal on earth: "That would have to involve
lobster en croute ... a white truffle cream sauce, asparagus and
fontina cheese risotto, and a rich, chocolatey mousse dessert."
culinary philosophy: "Keep it simple, flavorful and fun."
best restaurant memory: "I would have to say, here at Mo’s, was
successfully pulling off a 500-person party out of our modest
kitchen."
JAMES
NOWAK
Milwaukee ChopHouse, Hilton Milwaukee City Center, 633 N. 5th St.
age: 40 hometown: Milwaukee kitchen upbringing: "I started off
as a dishwasher, but was very interested in cooking, moving through
many positions of the cooks line. I went to MATC for an American
Culinary Federation apprenticeship and worked my way up through the
ranks with Marcus Corp. I also had a lot of fun when I was young
cooking with my grandmother." inspiration: "Chef Knut Apitz
(one of the owners of the former Grenadier’s), Chef Charlie Trotter
and the most important — seeing the lasting impression on someone’s
face with they are eating your creation." last meal on earth:
"Sushi, crème brulee, great rib eye steak that melts in your
mouth, huarache con tinga, and the main one — my mom’s homemade
split pea soup." culinary philosophy: "Using the best and
freshest product possible, to be able to deliver a taste that the
palates will love." best restaurant memory: "Eating at El
Palomar de Los Gonzales in the mountains overlooking Banderas Bay in
Puerto Vallarta."
ANDY STIYER
Moceans: A Place for Seafood, 747 N. Broadway
age: 42 hometown: Milwaukee kitchen upbringing: "I actually
started in the business when I was 16. I worked at the Halfway House.
I did go to school at MATC for an associate degree. I took a class at
CIA (Culinary Institute of America) in Napa Valley." He also
worked for the Marcus Corp. and at Eddie Martini’s before joining
Moceans. inspiration: "I just love to cook. I grew up in a large
family." last meal on earth: "I’d start with Como oysters.
Then have a large steak — rib eye is one of my favorites — and
fresh Australian lobster tail with asparagus, roasted Yukon potatoes
and a big piece of chocolate cake for desert." culinary
philosophy: "I love trying to keep it simple, but the flavor’s
everything. While appearance is important, the main point is to make
something that tastes good." best restaurant memory: "It’s
all so different, each place is so different. But I think Eddie
Martini’s was one of my favorite things. That’s where I learned
lots of different techniques and met a lot of new people."