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Table talk
Hot dish from 10 local chefs

By CANDACE DOYLE

March 2007

Marc Bianchini


Milwaukee’s landscape is changing, and with it comes a wide variety of dining experiences to choose from.

The executive chefs who head up these local restaurant gems are varied, too. Some have had formal training at top culinary schools, while others started out as dishwashers and scrubbed and soaked their way up as they gained knowledge and skill.

What each has in common, though, is a love of food, the need to be creative, the dedication to preparing meals that keep customers coming back for more and the fact that they work at 10 of the city’s most upscale (i.e., expensive) dining destinations.

Read on to learn what keeps these Milwaukee chefs on the top of the food chain.

JARVIS WILLIAMS

Carnevor, 724 N. Milwaukee St.

age: 25 hometown: Milwaukee kitchen upbringing: He’s worked at the Mohonk Mountain House in New Paltz, New York, and in the Milwaukee area for the Bartolotta group — Ristorante Bartolotta (Wauwatosa), Lake Park Bistro and Bacchus. inspiration: "To consistently satisfy myself with beautiful dishes and trends." last meal on earth: Chicken wings, blue cheese dressing, Tabasco sauce and a 20-ounce rib eye from Carnevor. culinary philosophy: "Serve hot food hot, cold food cold." best restaurant memory: "Getting off work at Mohonk and going out with co-workers to watch the sunset over Lake Mohonk."

ADAM SIEGEL

Bacchus, 925 E. Wells St.

age: 34 hometown: Highland Park, Ill. kitchen upbringing: Mentors include Paul Bartolotta (Spiaggia, Chicago), Julian Serrano (Masa’s, San Francisco) and Valentino Marcatelli (San Domennico, Italy). inspiration: "Having fun and pleasing guests." last meal on earth: "High-end would be a meal prepared by Thomas Keller at the French Laundry in Napa Valley, midline would be Hahn’s Korean BBQ pork sandwich in San Francisco, and comfort food would be the ultimate PBJ sandwich with my kids." culinary philosophy: "Simplicity and freshness." best restaurant memory: "Hosting Chef Jacques Pepin at Lake Park Bistro, cooking for Julia Child at Masa’s, and meeting my wife at Olives in Washington, D.C."

MARC BIANCHINI

Osteria De Mondo, 1028 E. Juneau Ave.

age: 36 hometown: Dix Hills, New York kitchen upbringing: Traditional Italian family. inspiration: "My father. He wasn’t the cook in the family. He was the foodie ... the one who introduced me to fine dining as a very young boy. He was always like my benchmark." last meal on earth: "Bianchini Christmas Eve dinner — baked clams, spaghetti with crab sauce, shrimp oreganata. Some type of fish is included, too. Sometimes it’s lobster, sea bass or something like that, and always roasted chestnuts for Christmas." culinary philosophy: "Do not over think or add too much to any dish." best restaurant memory: "San Domenico in Imola, Italy. It’s just a great restaurant. You walk in, you’re greeted by a whole bunch of people ... It takes five hours to eat. The service is great. The food is simple but elegant."

JASON GORMAN

Dream Dance, 1721 W. Canal St.

age: 36 hometown: Chicago kitchen upbringing: "I’ve spent 21 years in the restaurant business, 10 years as a chef. I began as a dishwasher at age 15. I am self-taught, and before coming to Dream Dance, worked in Dallas at Aquanox with Chef Stephan Pyles and at The Grape, Dallas’ oldest wine bistro. I also worked at NAVA in Atlanta under Chef Kevin Rathbun." inspiration: "I’m inspired by the thought of creating memories for my guests. I also pull inspiration from my mother, the glorious regional ingredients I work with and the food of Wisconsin, which has led to the creation of dishes like Lobsterwurst, the Ultimate Fish Fry and Kobe Beef Pierogies at Dream Dance." last meal on earth: "My last meal on earth would be shared with my wife, and would be a multicourse dinner created by various friends, family and influences. That meal would include my grandmother’s chicken noodle soup with pastini and fresh grated Parmesan cheese; my mother’s bragioule; sushi from Sushi of Gari in Soho, N.Y.; ceviche by Chef Stephen Pyles, The Mambo King of Ceviche; a 24-hour smoked brisket by Chef Kevin Rathbun; and Jewish apple cake made by my wife, Jennifer." culinary philosophy: "It’s not what you cook, it’s how you do it." best restaurant memory: "While working in Dallas in 1999, fellow chef Marc Cassel and I co-created an event called the Tibetan Freedom Dinner. At the time, I had been doing a lot of charity events and wanted to take on an event that would raise awareness of this cause. I contacted Robert Thurman, director of the Tibet House and father of actress Uma Thurman. After flying to New York to dine with Thurman at Jean Georges at the Trump Tower to discuss holding the dinner, the stage was set. The dinner was held at the Gypsy Tea Room in Dallas and presided over by the best chefs in the city. The sold-out crowd enjoyed a multicourse meal and the music of Johnny Reno and the Lounge Lizards; Chaksum-Pa, a Tibetan opera group; Composer Philip Glass; The Rev. Horton Heat; and a speech by Robert Thurman. It was a one-of-a-kind experience that I will never forget. The dinner took more than a year to prepare for."

JORDAN SHORT

Coast, 931 E. Wisconsin Ave.

age: 35 hometown: He hails from Waukesha, but now lives in Bay View. kitchen upbringing: "I never went to school. I learned from Chef Jack Fisher (of Jack Fisher Catering). I learned a lot about catering from him. The Chancery is where I learned speed and good organization. At Eddie Martini’s I learned a lot about food." inspiration: "I just like the work. I like to make great food, and I like to teach. To have someone learn from me and supercede me and be a chef on their own is really one of my finest accomplishments." last meal on earth: "It’s got to be a big fat rib eye or cheeseburger. Knowing me, it’s going to be the cheeseburger." culinary philosophy: "It’s just being fresh and being organized. As far as ingredients, you have to learn to taste in your head." best restaurant memory: "How about when I just covered my whole hand in boiling olive oil? I guess really the best one is being moved up to executive chef. It beats them all."

RYAN WHITMAN

Bjonda, 7754 Harwood Ave., Wauwatosa

age: 30 hometown: Whitefish Bay kitchen upbringing: B.S. in food service management from Johnson & Wales University and an associate of applied science in culinary arts degree. inspiration: "My drive comes from wanting to make people happy." last meal on earth: "Anything with bacon and crème anglaise." culinary philosophy: "You are only as good as the last meal you make — and lots and lots of love for what you do." best restaurant memory: "Anytime a guest says that this was the best meal they’ve ever had."

SANDY D’AMATO

Sanford, 1547 N. Jackson St.

age: 56 hometown: Milwaukee kitchen upbringing: "I was in a local apprenticeship program in Milwaukee. Then I graduated from the Culinary Institute in Hyde Park in New York and worked in New York City." inspiration: "Food products as I see them daily. For example, something as simple as seeing a great tomato. Then I’ll want to do something with them — add some cheese, olives and build a dish around that." last meal on earth: "If it is going to be my last meal on earth, I’d like to stretch it out a bit. I’d visit my chef friends around the country. First stop: Kincaid’s in Washington, D.C., for first-class clam bellies. That’s followed by barbecue by Louis Osteen at Louis’s Restaurant & Bar in Charleston, S.C. For dessert, the incredible pecan tart at the Magnolia Grill in Durham, N.C." culinary philosophy:"Keep it simple, keep it fresh and keep it seasonal. And then, have impeccable technique and products." best restaurant memory:"It was probably back in 1985. It was our first trip over in Europe. The place was Guido’s in Italy. They did a tasting menu with the wine of the region. And white truffles."

BILL BAUMANN

Mo’s: A Place for Steaks, 720 N. Plankinton Ave.

age: 41 hometown: Milwaukee kitchen upbringing: "I started as a dishwasher at a place called the Tosa Café at 52nd Street and North Avenue." He went on to work at Karl Ratzsch’s in Milwaukee under Executive Chef John Poulos, Baumann’s mentor. "Karl Ratzsch’s was when I got into high-end cooking." inspiration: "My mother and grandmother. I just took to learning from them in the kitchen." At age 4, he asked his then-pregnant mother to teach him to make French toast. And when she asked why, he told her, "I want to make breakfast while she’s out getting the baby." last meal on earth: "That would have to involve lobster en croute ... a white truffle cream sauce, asparagus and fontina cheese risotto, and a rich, chocolatey mousse dessert." culinary philosophy: "Keep it simple, flavorful and fun." best restaurant memory: "I would have to say, here at Mo’s, was successfully pulling off a 500-person party out of our modest kitchen."

JAMES NOWAK

Milwaukee ChopHouse, Hilton Milwaukee City Center, 633 N. 5th St.

age: 40 hometown: Milwaukee kitchen upbringing: "I started off as a dishwasher, but was very interested in cooking, moving through many positions of the cooks line. I went to MATC for an American Culinary Federation apprenticeship and worked my way up through the ranks with Marcus Corp. I also had a lot of fun when I was young cooking with my grandmother." inspiration: "Chef Knut Apitz (one of the owners of the former Grenadier’s), Chef Charlie Trotter and the most important — seeing the lasting impression on someone’s face with they are eating your creation." last meal on earth: "Sushi, crème brulee, great rib eye steak that melts in your mouth, huarache con tinga, and the main one — my mom’s homemade split pea soup." culinary philosophy: "Using the best and freshest product possible, to be able to deliver a taste that the palates will love." best restaurant memory: "Eating at El Palomar de Los Gonzales in the mountains overlooking Banderas Bay in Puerto Vallarta."

ANDY STIYER

Moceans: A Place for Seafood, 747 N. Broadway

age: 42 hometown: Milwaukee kitchen upbringing: "I actually started in the business when I was 16. I worked at the Halfway House. I did go to school at MATC for an associate degree. I took a class at CIA (Culinary Institute of America) in Napa Valley." He also worked for the Marcus Corp. and at Eddie Martini’s before joining Moceans. inspiration: "I just love to cook. I grew up in a large family." last meal on earth: "I’d start with Como oysters. Then have a large steak — rib eye is one of my favorites — and fresh Australian lobster tail with asparagus, roasted Yukon potatoes and a big piece of chocolate cake for desert." culinary philosophy: "I love trying to keep it simple, but the flavor’s everything. While appearance is important, the main point is to make something that tastes good." best restaurant memory: "It’s all so different, each place is so different. But I think Eddie Martini’s was one of my favorite things. That’s where I learned lots of different techniques and met a lot of new people."