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The dish/what's new in city dining

BY CARRIE TAYLOR-CARLSON

December 2007


Marchese’s Olive Pit

With a name like Marchese, if you’re planning to make pizza in Milwaukee, you’d better get it right.

Forget the gloppy, oozy, heavy, cheesey stuff we often find at pizza joints not locally owned, and come on down to the Fifth Ward where something good happens when talent meets passion.

Look out, Zaffiro’s, there’s another thin kid in town. 

Not since restaurant Castello on Via Dante in Milan, where we feasted on porcini pizza with arugula, have I tasted a seriously good thin crust pizza.

The owners/chefs Gina Marchese and her sister-in-law Lisa Marchese collected family recipes to serve the customers in this restaurant, formerly Lava Java.  According to mom Audrey, "They didn’t want to work for someone else, so they opened their own place where they both cook and tend bar."

And they kept it simple. Pizza, salad, dessert and a single appetizer, Fresh Bread with a choice of Pesto Spread, Marinara Sauce, Roasted Red Pepper Spread, Olive Tapenade and Roasted Garlic. The herb crusted "fresh" bread came to us straight from the oven, and was an ideal base for the spreads.

The thin crust pizza can be ordered by the slice weekdays 11 a.m.-2 p.m. We sampled the Veggie and the Casper Classic. The toppings were precooked, then baked on a crispy crust, a perfect base for the subtle flavors of the veggies. No flavor dominated: not the sauce, the sausage on the Casper or the light layer of melted cheese.

It tasted like Italy, Milan, la dolce vita. -Carrie Taylor-Carlson

Marchese’s Olive Pit is at 1100 S. 1st St., Milwaukee (414) 384-9555.