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The dish: what's new in city dining
Karma Bar & Grill

By CARI TAYLOR-CARLSON

July 2008

Karma Bar & Grill occupies a space somewhere between a sports bar and a restaurant. Located in the former John Ernst Café and the recent Vivo Urban Bar and Grill, Karma’s owners kept the original fireplace and the lovely hand-carved door from John Ernst. Look for the door above the hearth. They kept it rustic then added sports bar accouterments — or more precisely — 17 hi-def TVs. In the front room, each of the oversized booths — comfy, plush and inviting — have their own TV mounted on the wall above them. Next to the booth, a control panel potentially activates everything direct TV offers.

That’s an appropriate segue into the name Karma, or as manager J.P. Clemente says, "Karma means circular, all encompassing and that’s what we want. We want it to be more than just a sports bar." Glance at the menu and you’ll see contemporary cuisine at reasonable prices.

We enjoyed a late lunch, seated in one of the four raised booths designed to host a crowd. The Karma Brisket Sandwich, a drippy heap of thinly sliced brisket in BBQ sauce, overwhelmed the alleged whiskey cream. But having said that, I found it fork tender, flavorful and still delicious the next day. Since I dithered over the sides, the friendly server suggested a split. Both the Asian slaw and the hint of cinnamon in the sweet potato fries surpassed expectations, as did my friend’s Ostrich Burger. Vegetarians will find options, such as a black bean burger, mac and cheese, white bean chili and spinach and citrus salad. Burgers come in many flavors — Kobe, Black Angus, Turkey, Ostrich and Buffalo — while entrées move toward more upscale cuisine featuring Alaskan Salmon, New York Strip and Tiger Shrimp.

For a relaxed evening or an after-dinner drink, visit the downstairs Sutra Lounge, where the lights are dim and the couches cushy.

Karma Bar & Grill
600 E. Ogden Ave., Milwaukee(414) 220-4118

 


This story ran in the July 2008 issue of: