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The dish 
What's new in city dining

By CARI TAYLOR-CARLSON

October 2008

The owners of Fratellos, a Wisconsin-based franchise, are committed to "living green," and that means the freshest ingredients and local products. Your server will send you home with a take-out menu made from recycled paper and manufactured with wind-generated energy, and you won’t find any antibiotics in the bird on your plate. But you will find organic vodka in the exotic drinks and all-natural, fruit-flavored soda. Maybe that’s why my Thai Chicken (chicken on Fratbread) tasted so good. Fratbread, incidentally, lives up to its advance hype. Its wafer-thin crust supports peanut sauce, the organic chicken, shredded carrots, cilantro and melted Parmesan without succumbing to soggy. There are three Fratbread choices: the chicken, Portabello Mushroom (with bacon and Gorgonzola) and Roasted Veggie, as well as several Stone Fired Pizza options, each set on a hand-made, 10-inch crust.

The restaurant’s bread, all made in-house, deserves a mention, as the tomato foccacia turned out to be the star of the Crab Cake Sandwich. Unlike the Thai Chicken, the crab-scented patty over cucumber-shrimpless salad turned seriously soggy. But the grilled foccacia saved the day. It was delicious, as was the accompanying Asian Noodle Salad, a refreshing change from the usual sides.

Fratellos’ extensive menu can surely please any age or appetite from snacks like sweet potato fries with melted marshmallows, an array of sliders, appetizers that could double as lunch and salads that will force my return. Then add pasta, steak, seafood, a trio of stir-frys and several Signatures that defy the forementioned categories, such as Pork Occo Bucco, Jambalaya, Braised Short Ribs and Bruschetta Chicken. All the dinners come with choice of soup or salad, which included White Chicken Chili and Caesar Salad.

The restaurant offers an enticing dessert menu, including a somewhat sensible $1.99 single cupcake. Order one Chocolate Fixx and enjoy a mousse-filled cupcake with fudge frosting, chocolate chips and chocolate sauce. We shared the Chocolate Torte Brulée, enough chocolate for a crowd.

 


This story ran in the October 2008 issue of: