Steak, chops,
fish, chicken, pasta: If you’re stuck in a rut in the kitchen, take
some advice from the experts. Milwaukee’s creative chefs have
numerous techniques to transform the mundane into the gourmet, when it
comes to dishes that might appear pedantic at first but have the
potential for gourmet status. It’s not merely culinary magic, but
imagination that counts. Here is what some of the area’s top kitchen
talent have to say about the process.
Sensational
Salmon
Tom Peschong, executive chef
Riversite Restaurant, Mequon
"I love
salmon. For one thing, it’s now a sustainable fish, one that’s
really affordable and healthy. It can be fixed in so many ways,
whether grilled, broiled, pan roasted or poached. Back in the ‘day,’
wild salmon was seasonal and relatively hard to get. Of course, wild
salmon is still great. Copper River is top of the line, with king,
coho and chinook each having different tastes.
"But
now, since salmon can be readily farm-raised, the fish has been
demystified. Salmon is now produced worldwide; the Norwegians have
perfected the technique. I still really like Canadian salmon; Scottish
salmon is delicious, too. It’s good for a cook to know where your
product comes from. I purchase fish from my regular purveyors in
Chicago or Boston, so I know what I am getting each time. The
layperson can do the same, just talk with your fishmonger or the guy
you deal with all the time at the grocery store. Ask questions. Tim
Collins at the St. Paul Fish Co. in the Milwaukee Public Market is
really helpful.
"Fish
doesn’t have to be prepared any fancy way to be really good. Just a
little lemon and seasoning is often enough. We grill our salmon here
at Riversite with a spice mixture that we grind. Usually, keeping it
simple is best."
Salmon
With Red Wine and Balsamic Vinegar
2 tablespoons
extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons minced shallot
1/2 teaspoon cracked black pepper
1 sprig of French thyme
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 cups "big" or hearty red wine
2 tablespoons heavy cream
4 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces
Sea salt
4 skinless salmon filets, 6-8 ounces each
Heat one
tablespoon of the olive oil in a wide, deep sauté pan over medium
heat. Add shallot, pepper and thyme; render for about four minutes.
Add vinegar and wine, raise heat to bring to a boil. Reduce until just
a few tablespoons remain. Remove from heat and whisk in cream. Then
whisk in butter, one piece at a time. Strain through a fine mesh sieve
and discard solids. Season the sauce with salt and pepper and set
aside; keeping it warm. Warm remaining oil and add salmon that has
been seasoned with salt and pepper. Cook until lightly browned, about
four minutes. Turn over filet; lower heat and cook for about another
four minutes. To serve, arrange filets on a warmed plate and drizzle
sauce around each filet. If desired, freshly chopped herbs can be used
with fish as garnish. Serve with rice and a full-bodied red wine.
Champion
Chicken
John Mollet, executive chef
The Union House, Genesee Depot
"To me,
a gourmet dish does not have to be formal. A casual option can be
easily made at home. I’m a big fan of paninis because of the endless
ingredient possibilities and their inherent satisfying nature. My
favorites include a mix of roasted red peppers, red onions and
sometimes mushrooms. This mixture can stand by itself.
"At the
restaurant, we gather fresh herbs daily from the garden where we grow
five varieties of thyme, plenty of chives, oregano and basil, among
others. You can use a single favorite or more, available at the
grocery, but fresh is always preferable to dry. We also roast our
peppers over an open flame and remove the charred, blistered skin. For
our purposes here, simply grilling pepper strips and leaving the skin
is fine.
"Seeking
out a good loaf of bread is important, as it adds a lot in terms of
flavor and texture. I prefer a hearty, crusty Italian or a tomato
focaccia."
Herbed
Chicken and Fontina Panini with Roasted Red Peppers, Onions and
Arugula
4 fresh
chicken breasts, cleaned of fat and slightly flattened
2 tablespoons or more chopped fresh thyme and other herbs if desired,
divided
6 tablespoons olive oil, divided
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 large red bell peppers, cut lengthwise into 1-1/2-inch-wide strips
1 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
8-1/2-inch-thick slices of bread
2 tablespoons extra-virgin or good quality olive oil for brushing
8 ounces Fontina cheese, thinly sliced
8 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 bunch arugula
Season
chicken on both sides with salt and pepper, then add one tablespoon of
fresh herbs of choice. Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in heavy,
large pan over medium-high heat. Add chicken; sauté until cooked
through for about two to three minutes per side. Transfer chicken to
plate. Add remaining four tablespoons oil and garlic to pan, stir over
medium heat for 15 seconds. Add vinegar and remaining herbs; bring to
a boil, scraping the bottom of the pan. Return chicken to your skillet
and heat through, about one minute longer. Remove from heat. Heat a
panini press on medium high. Spray the grills with cooking spray or
brush with olive oil. Working in batches, grill the red pepper strips
until they start to get tender, turning if necessary, for about five
minutes. Set aside. If cooking onions, which I prefer, repeat this
process with them. Place four bread slices on work surface. Divide
half the Fontina cheese among bread slices, top with two tablespoons
Parmesan cheese, a chicken breast, sliced if preferred and drizzled
with pan juices, along with the bell pepper strips, onion and arugula.
Arrange remaining Fontina cheese over all, then top with remaining
bread slices, pressing to compact. Brush panini press with oil again.
Alternatively brush the outside of bread slices before assembly. Place
sandwiches in press, cover and cook until bread is golden and cheese
is melted. The addition of a few grilled eggplant slices also
contributes nicely to the flavors.
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Jason
Gorman
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Sizzling
Steaks
Jason Gorman, executive chef
Dream Dance Steak, Milwaukee
"All
food has the opportunity to be ordinary or extraordinary. Sure, the
ordinary person can make a gourmet steak. Most of it has to do with
cut and grade of beef used. In addition, the cooking method is also
key to how a steak eats. Most importantly, the steak should rest prior
to cutting into. This will ensure a moist, flavorful steak.
"One
basic secret that elevates a plain steak to gourmet status is salt,
salt, salt. Bland food equals bad food. Salt is the great equalizer
— not enough results in diminished flavors and too much can kill a
dish. The purpose is to create balance.
"We
provide cuts from grass-fed filet mignon — incredibly unique, raised
humanely, sustainable and the healthiest cut. The grass-fed beef is
raised its whole life eating rye and barley, which changes the cell
structure and produces a low-fat alternative to mass-produced,
corn-fed beef.
"My
favorite steak is the one you’re eating at our kitchen table. My
favorite cut is our American Kobe beef rib-eye. It has the most
marbling of all our steaks and the most flavor. The key is the steak
has to be cooked at least medium to slowly cook the delicious marbling
inside the steak.
"A great
steak, seasoned and cooked the way you want, doesn’t always require
a sauce, but if you’re paying for it, you’re going to get it the
way you want.
"Each
steak has a different fat content, some steaks are served on the bone,
some can be sliced. So for pairings, remember that these all affect
the interaction with wine."
Beef
Wellington
2-1/2 pounds beef tenderloin
2 tablespoons butter, softened
2 tablespoons butter
1 onion, chopped
1/2 cup chopped
2 ounces foie gras
2 tablespoons butter, softened
Salt and pepper to taste
1 (17.5-ounce) package frozen puff pastry, thawed
1 egg yolk, beaten
1 (10.5-ounce) package beef broth
2 tablespoons cabernet
Preheat oven
to 425 degrees. Place beef in a small baking dish, and spread with two
tablespoons softened butter. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until
browned. Remove from pan, and allow to cool completely. Reserve pan
juices. Melt two tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium heat.
Sauté onion and mushrooms in butter for five minutes. Remove from
heat, and let cool. Mix together pate and two tablespoons softened
butter, and season with salt and pepper. Spread pate over beef. Top
with onion and mushroom mixture. Roll out the puff pastry dough and
place beef in the center. Fold up, and seal all the edges, making sure
the seams are not too thick. Place beef in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish,
cut a few slits in the top of the dough and brush with egg yolk. Bake
at 450 degrees for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to 425 for 10 to 15
more minutes, or until pastry is a rich, golden brown. Set aside, and
keep warm. Serve with the black truffle sauce.
Black
Truffle Sauce
2 each beef
shank bones
1 cup mirepoix, diced
1 pound mushroom scraps
2 tablespoons roasted garlic paste
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped black truffle
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage, rosemary, thyme, parsley
1/4 cup tomato paste
1/ 2 cup Wondra flour
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup brandy
3 cups Madeira wine
1 cup cabernet
1 gallon chicken stock
Roast bones
until well-browned. Meanwhile, in a separate pan brown mirepoix with
butter and olive oil until well caramelized. Add herbs and tomato
paste. When incorporated, add sugar and caramelize. Add roasted bones.
Add flour and incorporate well. Add brandy and reduce. Add Madeira and
reduce. Add red wine and simmer. When reduced, cover bones with
chicken stock and simmer for approximately two hours. Strain through
fine mesh strainer and return to stove and reduce to desired
consistency. Add the finely chopped black truffle, season to taste and
serve. This dish serves six to eight hungry diners.
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Dan Van
Rite
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Pork Party
Dan Van Rite, executive chef
Hinterland, Milwaukee
"With
any cooking, you should always start with good products. We brew our
own beer and use the spent grain and mash from that process to feed
our pigs that are raised in Door County, thus keeping the food chain
in a circle. I prefer heritage hogs — there’s better marbling with
them — while many of today’s pigs are more lean. We take a whole
hog and use everything, from the belly and loins, to the legs,
shoulder and head. When you get in a lot of meat like this, you need
to be creative as a chef.
"We make
bacon, crisp pork belly and a lot of other dishes, even head cheese,
which might be scary for some diners. But it’s delicious if there
isn’t too much gelatin. I’m also making Vietnamese pho (soup)
broth with chicken, pork shank, marrow bone, fish-flavored stock, star
anise and cardamon. Even the tail can be used. There is a lot of meat
on that."
Pork Loin
or Pork Chop Brined in Apple Cider
1/2 cup of
salt
1/2 cup of brown sugar
1/2 gallon of water
1/2 gallon of apple cider
6 pounds of pork loin cut in half, or six, 14-ounce pork chops
Combine ingredients, except for the meat, and bring to a boil to
dissolve the salt and sugar. Cool completely.
Apple Cider Glaze
1/2 cup of
honey, maple syrup or brown sugar
1 cup cider
Combine ingredients; reduce until thickened.
Main Dish:
Submerge loin/chops for eight to 10 hours; take out and pat dry. Cook
evenly on both sides, roughly seven to eight minutes on one side, then
turn over for another seven to eight minutes. Brush glaze on loin and
cook on wood fire grill or finish in 350-degree oven until meat
temperature reads 140 degrees. Pair with Hinterland’s Vienna-style,
malty Oktoberfest beer; serve with spaetzle and braised red cabbage.
Pasta
Perfect
Walter Williams, executive chef
Centro Cafe, Milwaukee
"For
pasta, I love working with cavatappi because of its texture and
accessibility to grab with a fork. Its spiral shape helps to give a
nice presentation with its accompaniments. Other pastas can be fun as
well, especially when combining with certain ingredients. As far as a
favorite sauce, I like a red pepper cream sauce because it works so
well with fresh vegetables and/or chicken so it can accommodate a
variety of dietary needs.
"When
cooking perfect pasta, an ordinary person can do the same as an
established chef if you have the desire, commitment and focus to
follow directions, along with the ability to take criticism. You must
love what you do whether at home or in a professional kitchen.
"I think
al dente is the best way to prepare your pasta because you can eat it
as is or cook it to the desired texture. We do not currently have the
space to make our own pasta but with our expansion under way, to
include a bar and lounge with full alcohol service, we will be able to
start doing so. We buy all our gluten-free pasta from the Gluten Free
Trading Co. and buy our other pastas from a variety or sources
offering the best quality.
"I think
the freshness of the ingredients elevates a plain dish to gourmet,
from vegetables to fresh herbs and spices. We do utilize local cream,
eggs and milk and vegetables when available. We have even used some
Riverwest-grown lettuces and herbs from our employees’ gardens.
"Pasta
doesn’t have to automatically be unhealthy. We have several dishes
that are cooked in either olive oil, light white wine sauces or
marinara, and many also have an array of vegetables, add some shrimp
or chicken and you have the makings of a well-balanced meal."
Pasta
Primavera
4 ounces
each: fresh basil, eggplant, red pepper, yellow squash, zucchini,
broccoli, spinach
2 ounces butter
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 ounces marinara sauce
3 ounces white wine
1 tablespoons garlic
1 pound spaghetti
Cook
spaghetti al dente ("six-ish" minutes), drain under cold
water. Put veggies, olive oil, butter and garlic in a pan and sauté
with salt and pepper for about four minutes. Add white wine and cook
down for one to two minutes. Add marinara, basil and spaghetti. Stir
and cook for two to three minutes; serve immediately after. Serve with
Lamura Nero d’ Avola, a Sicilian red organic wine; along with a
cannoli for dessert.