Summer
partying in Wisconsin means cheese, whether a platter of sliced
selections, a creamy spread, a crumble in salads, an ingredient
integral for sandwich-making or a simple bite-sized snack. Hunker back
on a patio or porch, flop on a couch for a Brewers game or perch under
a tree with a loaf of bread, a jug of wine, a significant other and a
picnic basket. Regardless of locale, Wisconsin spins wonderfully with
cheese. Here’s what area experts suggest when the weather warms.
Sweet Swiss
$8.99/pound
Brennan’s Market
19000 W. Bluemound Road, Brookfield
1670 Old School House Road, Oconomowoc
Department manager Chris Luken goes for the artisan Sweet Swiss by
Wisconsin master cheesemaker Bruce Workman’s Edelweiss Dairy in
Monroe. "It has a smooth and creamy texture, not a bitey Swissy-Swiss,
but more of a cross between a baby Swiss and a Gouda. This is a top
seller in all our stores, year-round," Luken says. He adds that
Sweet Swiss goes well with crackers and slices of air-dried hard
sausage from Usinger’s.
Chevre
$3.99/4 ounces
Larry’s Market
8737 N. Deerwood Drive, Brown Deer
Cheese whiz Patty Ehlers Peterson suggests a fresh chevre, made in
the traditional French way by Montchevre-Betin of Belmont, a central
Wisconsin hub of the dairy goat industry. "It’s light, not
overpowering and goes well with just about any kind of salad,"
she says. In addition to the shop, Larry’s Market has a booth at the
Fox Point Farmers Market on Saturdays throughout the summer until
early autumn.
Appenzeller
$16.99/pound
Metro Market
1123 N. Van Buren St., Milwaukee
Executive chef Cary Dietsch favors melt-in-your-mouth Appenzeller,
made only in the spring and summer in Switzerland, making the variety
an "appellation of controlled origin." This cheese can only
be made in a particular way by official manufacturers in the
mountainous Appenzell region, before being labeled and marketed as
Appenzeller. Dietsch says this semi-hard cow’s milk marvel pairs
well with fresh fruit and vegetables and can be eaten with crackers, a
crusty baguette or even melted on a hamburger — a topping
complemented with mushrooms. "Appenzeller has a rich, nutty
taste. It’s nice and light, making it great for summer
serving," he says.
Saxony
$9.99/pound
Sendik’s Food Markets
Locations in Elm Grove, Franklin, Germantown, Grafton, Greenfield,
New Berlin (opening this fall), Mequon, Wauwatosa and Whitefish Bay
Cheese buyer Marc Goodman opts for Saxony, a raw milk cheese from
the Saxon Homestead Creamery in Cleveland, Wis. This is a light,
washed-rind cheese that is slightly dry, with a mellow flavor, he
says. "It’s rather like a cheddar. Nutty and balanced, making
it great for putting on crackers or toasted bread and topped with a
fresh sage leaf," he says, emphasizing that Saxony provides a
great balance for spicy food, especially the bite of hot peppers. The
cheese is made from local cows.
Marieke Gouda
$16.99/pound
West Allis Cheese & Sausage Shoppe
Milwaukee Public Market, 400 N. Water St., Milwaukee
6832 W. Becher St., West Allis
Owner Linda Lutz swears by Marieke Gouda, made by Netherlands
natives Marieke and Rolf Penterman of Holland’s Family Farm near
Thorp. "This is one of the new Wisconsin cheeses," Lutz
says, "a semi-hard variety that goes well with beer, either a red
or white wine or a champagne." Lutz says to always serve at room
temperature for the best flavor. This award-winning Gouda is a
farmstead cheese, made from milk produced by the Pentermans’ own
cows. "It’s phenomenal," she says.
