Looking for lunch on the run, hearty eaters have plenty of traditional delicatessens to chose from in the greater Milwaukee area vs. going the all-too-easy fast-food route. The word "deli" comes from the 19th century term denoting "prepared foods for sale." In German, it’s "Delikatessen" and the Dutch "delicatessen," and from French "délicatesse" or "delicateness," which comes from "délicat." Following are among the best delis in town, where the chopped liver has attitude and dark rye bread is mighty fine.

Angelina’s Deli
15655 W. North Ave., Brookfield
(262) 938-9038

Launched in 1997 by Jerry Floryanze, Angelina’s emphasizes homemade Italian, seasonal Slovenian, Polish and other sausages, slices of pizza and lasagna. Friday specials included a fish/seafood fry with either lake perch, walleye filet or jumbo shrimp. As hungry diners say here, "Sighted sub, sank same" with the Meatball Sub, which is two monster all-beef meatballs topped with mozzarella cheese. There’s also a soup of the day and, wonder of wonders, a wine cellar. The hot German potato salad, complete with the requisite bacon, is worth a visit. Don’t forget the freshly made tiramisu or a brownie cake as the topper.

Benji’s Deli
4156 N. Oakland Ave., Shorewood
(414) 332-7777

For nearly 40 years, this has been the place for herring in cream sauce. But consider the chicken soup — ah, the chicken soup. Both for the soul and the bowl. Benji’s homemade broth is made daily and served with a choice of matzoh ball, noodle, rice, kreplach or kasha. Or maybe beet borscht for home? Or a half pound of slow-roasted beef brisket with two potato pancakes. Or, better listen now: Hear O Israel is a sandwich concoction of corned beef, pastrami, salami and pepper beef mounded with Swiss cheese and coleslaw, all slathered in Thousand Island dressing. And the pickled tongue has never been better. Benji’s is a halvah place for eats, all right.

Jake’s Delicatessen
1634 W. North Ave., Milwaukee
(414) 562-1272

For corned beef sandwiches, Jake’s has been a favorite since Noah built that boat. Start with the simple "Xtra-lean" and move on to other varieties of this standard deli delight. A Philly corned beef wonder is happily exotica, with layers of onions, peppers and cheese. Milwaukee-made Miller bakery seeded rye is usually the bread of choice. Oh, yes: After all these generations, corned beef and cabbage soup is still on the menu. A frothy Dr. Brown’s cream or black cherry soda will bring back memories of summer childhood.

Koppa’s Fubeli Deli
1940 N. Farwell Ave., Milwaukee
(414) 273-1273

For a quarter-century, Koppa’s has been feeding the planet from its homey East Side site. Koppa’s is noted for its self-proclaimed world’s hottest chili, plus other daily specials, many named after the planets. Football fans and meat eaters pack into the Bread Favre, made with shaved Cajun turkey breast, sharp cheddar, bacon, avocado, red onions, tomato, lettuce, mayo and sub dressing on a fresh baked roll. Vegetarians often go for the Deli Lama, with its generous layers of Provolone cheese, red onions, tomato, avocado, roasted red peppers, alfalfa sprouts, mayo and tahini dressing, also on a Koppa’s fab sub roll.

Larry’s Market
8737 North Deerwood Drive, Brown Deer
(414) 355-9650

Sited a block south of Brown Deer Road near the North Shore Fire Department, Larry’s has long held title as one of Milwaukee’s best cheese houses. The deli here is to die for, as well. Soup is a specialty, ranging from fresh gazpacho to tomato Florentine or a clam/shrimp/crab trio swimming in a tomato broth. Every summer Friday is Grill Out Day from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., with such offerings as chicken andouille sausage and orange mango salmon. Sandwiches can be done on a Miller Bakery pretzel bun for a slight extra charge, while the market’s signature sandwiches are generally served on demi-baguettes. Craving leftovers, discerning diners go for the salads by the pound.

Milwaukee Waterfront Deli
761 N. Water St., Milwaukee
(414) 220-9300

MWD’s "BALT" is far from traditional, being served with bacon, lox, tomato and arugula. A sub here could be constructed with hearty roast beef, complemented with horseradish mayo, red onions, tomato, mixed greens and Provolone. Or make it an Italian sub, with imported soppresata, which is a dry salami, along with ham and capicolla, a traditional cold-cut. Bag lunches, with either a sandwich or salad, include one side, such as a pasta, fruit salad or chips and one dessert, which could be a cookie, coffeecake or other sweets. Beverages are extra.

National Bakery & Deli
Brookfield, Milwaukee, Greendale

From torts to tarts and everything cream-filled deliciously in between, National’s three locations are guaranteed to satisfy the determined deli lover on the prowl for sweets. Yet for a dietary balancing act, be sure not just to load up on buttered or regular Paczki cakes (Polish doughnuts), but take home some cranberry fluff, bronco beans and spinach dip to go along with slices of hard salami, top round beef roast or turkey breast. What, and you want liver sausage, too! OK, you got it. Every day, smart shoppers get six free hard rolls with the purchase of a pound of gourmet Badger boiled ham made locally by the third generation of the Schwellinger family, augmented with National’s own kind-of-secret baked-on brown sugar glaze.

What’s Fresh Deli
146 E. Juneau Ave., Milwaukee
(414) 273-5677

Located near the fabled Art’s Performing Center and the fabulous Marcus Center for the Performing Arts, Jared Millen’s What’s Fresh has been serving braunschweiger to artistes of all stripes since he opened in 1989. That totals tens of thousands of sandwiches, with a chicken basil salad long a favorite. Cost-conscious downtown noon-timers also know that for inexpensive eats, What’s Fresh can’t be beat. Except for its boxed lunches, most of the deli’s menu selections are under $5. Why pay any more for a delicious egg salad?