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The dish/What's new in city dining
Parkside 23

By CARI TAYLOR-CARLSON

July 2011

Everyone’s doing it — serving locally grown, organic, healthful food. Parkside 23 owners took that premise a step further when they planted a 10,000-square-foot organic garden a stone’s throw from the restaurant. PS23 combines the best of casual dining with exceptional food prepared to enhance natural flavors. There’s no designer food here that requires an explanation from your server. Many foods challenge past experience. Fennel, for example, takes on a new personality when it’s carmelized, as do parsnips when smashed into hash with potatoes or apples.

The owners arranged the menu according to price to encourage customers to share dishes and to experiment with new flavor combinations.

PS23 also has a menu completely devoted to foods prepared without gluten, including a braised short rib sandwich. Also on the gluten-free menu, a bacon-lover’s dream, crisp braised bacon made with uncured pork from the belly that comes with apple parsnip hash and pickled cabbage.

I tried the rotisserie chicken with caramelized onion cracked pepper mash and farm vegetables. It came with a bonus, a corn muffin so moist, it melted without butter. The chicken — hormone, antibiotic and cage-free — was juicy, lightly seasoned and tender. The grilled veggies, carrots, zucchini, asparagus and red pepper, approached nirvana, as did the potatoes.

The daily special, ribeye with green beans and toasted almonds, smashed potatoes and two fat onion rings, disappeared as my friend exclaimed over the perfection of her meal.

»Parkside 23
2300 Pilgrim Square Drive
Brookfield
(262) 784-7275

 





 

This story ran in the July 2011 issue of: