Chicken Wings are only part of the gastropub equation at The
Rumpus Room, the newest establishment of the Bartolotta
restaurant group. Neutralize the heat of the harissa-coated
wings with one of Rumpus Room’s 25 draft beers or its 150
domestic, craft and rare beers.
On my visit to
The Rumpus Room gastropub, a quick look at the bar confirmed the
"pub," and my first bite of the Scotch Egg confirmed the
"gastro." The interior of the latest Bartolotta restaurant
group endeavor combines the look of an elderly English pub with dark
walls, dark furniture and wonderful scarred hardwood floors, with a
long bar and an impressive collection of spirits displayed on the back
The Rumpus Room fits with the original gastropub movement born in
London in a corner bar. The idea is to merge a cozy pub with great
drink selections with a casual restaurant that serves comfort food. A
drink guide lists dozens of bottled beer choices from all over the
world, some geared to the aficionado, such as New Belgium La Folie
from Colorado, $21, and from Nebraska Brewing, Apricot Au Poivre, $35.
Like bird watchers with life lists to check off rare sightings, beer
lovers come to The Rumpus Room to taste rare, seldom seen beer. The
bar also offers 24 craft beers on draft.
I’d put my
Scotch Egg more in the English pub tradition than classic comfort
food. Nevertheless, I could eat one for breakfast every day for the
rest of my life. The soft-boiled egg, encased in a layer of sausage
and a deep-fried crust, was served on a bed of arugula and a creamy
mustard dressing. The daily flat bread came with shaved apple,
caramelized onion, dollops of goat cheese, a hint of chive and a
balsamic reduction. The flavors on the grilled flat bread nailed the
basics — sweet from the apple and the onions, salty from the cheese
and tart from the reduction.
As for comfort
food, the menu list many options: Bangers and Mash, Pork Kielbasa,
Garlic Mashed Potatoes and Braised Red Cabbage, or Veal Meatloaf with
Mashed Root Vegetables, or Braised lamb with Mashed Potatoes and
Turnips. For lunch or light eaters, sandwiches include a burger,
Muffalatta, a Chicken Cutlet, a Cuban sandwich and a grilled veggie.
From a modest
sample at lunch time, I found delicious food, an inviting ambiance,
excellent service and the resident motto hanging on the wall,
"Keep calm and carry on."
1030 N. Water St.