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The dish/ What's new in city dining
Cafe One 24

By CARI TAYLOR-CARLSON

April 2012

Portion control? It’s not the first thing I think to mention when I speak about a restaurant. At Cafe One 24 it’s on the menu. Well, not explicitly expressed, but implied in executive chef Sarah Dusseau’s philosophical musings about her restaurant. She comes from a fitness background. Her other business, Fit Food Trainer, focuses on exercise and portion control and offers healthful foods to go. Encouraged by kudos from friends and customers, Dusseau opened Cafe One 24 in January. As our server explained, the food is "clean" as in locally produced, unprocessed and unrefined. Or as he says, "Our food is as close to the earth as possible." That means grass-fed beef, local greens, craft beer, products from Wisconsin farmers, no refined flour, no preservatives or additives, honey and molasses in place of sugar, and — ouch ­— no butter.

I tested out that butterless thing by ordering the Grilled Gruyere with prosciutto and honey on sprouted grain raisin bread. It worked. The chef used olive oil to pan sear the bread, then put the sandwich in the oven to melt the cheese. It might be my all-time favorite toasted cheese sandwich. It came with a side salad, and for an additional $4, a bowl of soup du jour, tomato-basil-white bean topped with two crostini. Both were delicious. The salad had tiny bits of blue cheese that defined the mixed greens, and the thick soup had perfectly balanced tomato-basil flavors.

My companion sampled Chicken Roulade, organic chicken, stuffed with spinach, goat cheese and prosciutto over sweet potato mash and grilled asparagus. Compared to what we’re accustomed to finding on the plate it was a relatively small portion, however, it proved an ample serving, and again, delicious.

Dusseau kept the menu brief. The four salad choices sounded so unique I wanted to sample each one, especially the Seared Flank Steak Salad with Gorgonzola and toasted cumin dressing. That steak on the Mains menu comes with white bean puree, braised rainbow chard and sautéed wild mushrooms.

Dusseau wrote on the menu, "Thank you to our local business partners." I say, thank you for this "clean-eating" restaurant.

»Cafe One 24
3705 N. 124th St., Suite 400, Brookfield
(262) 781-1662

 


This story ran in the April 2012 issue of: