- almost too beautiful to eat (well, almost) - from Lake Park
1100 S. 1st St.
chocolate bar you adored as a child? First introduced by the Hershey
Co. in 1978, itís comprised of peanut-flavored crisps with layers of
milk chocolate and peanut butter. c.1880, a less-than-year-old
restaurant in Walkerís Point, has gone to town on deconstructing its
caramel, peanut and chocolate ingredients. The result is a
tantalizing, Jackson Pollack-esque display that allows the meal to end
on a sweet ó and stunning ó note.
Eggrolls at Smoke Shack
332 N. Milwaukee St.
height ó the egg rolls are arranged vertically ó this starter dish
literally turns itself 180 degrees from the expected, which would be,
well, flat and boring, no? Pulled pork, Monterey jack cheese, cabbage
and mustard are combined with Kansas City BBQ sauce, with shreds of
purple cabbage dusting the top of each egg roll, the sauce swirled
below. Itís yet another example of innovation at this Third Ward
newcomer (Smoke Shack opened in January), where its barbecue isnít
merely one style (choose from five sauces) and drinking glasses are
replaced by shabby chic Mason jars.
Chowder at Umami Moto
718 N. Milwaukee St.
stark-white backdrop inside Umami Moto on Milwaukee Street, itís no
wonder the food pops, whether itís sushi or, in this case, lobster
chowder. Chef Justin Carlisle spreads the ingredients ó lobster
medallions, freeze-dried corn, popcorn kernels, chives, potato purťe,
lemon oil and wild leeks ó in the shallow bowl, using that as a
canvas but also taking advantage of its wide, expansive brim, where
the ingredients are again displayed on a thin slice of cured lobster.
The silky chowder is poured into the bowl tableside. Itís lobster
luxe at its best.
Tartare at Balzac Wine Bar
1716 N. Arlington Place
Why should a
wine bar be just about the gorgeous stemware? Sure, the Ahi Tuna
Tartare pairs with a lot of wines at Balzac Wine Bar ó a staple in
the cityís wine-sipping scene ó but even if youíre just here for
the food, itís all good. Front and center on the Brady Street area
wine barís small plates menu is this stunner: a curvy, white bowl
filled with wonton crisps shares a plate with Ahi tuna (seasoned with
wasabi vinaigrette and sesame oil) arranged in a neat and tidy tower.
Lamb Chops at
Lake Park Bistro
3133 E. Newberry Blvd.
You could call
them lamb chops. Or, you can toss around some French prose, as Lake
Park Bistro does in its menu authoring, and refer to them as Cote díAgneau
Grilles. These marinated and grilled chops are artfully arranged on
the plate in such a way that they lean into each other on a slight
angle, creating an edible sculpture of savory goodness. Add the
splashes of color, and itís a genuine piece of edible art.