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The dish/What's new in city dining
The Noble

By CARI TAYLOR-CARLSON

July 2012

I would eat cat food if they dressed it with a sauce and served it at The Noble.

In this small space with six tables and eight seats at the bar, we found food nirvana. We also found it busy on a Friday night. As we waited in chairs behind the espresso machine — the waiting room — we noted a bookcase with some old books. The whole place looks like someone’s grandma emptied her attic and sold the treasures on the street.

Our server presented two menus, a slate menu that listed the daily specials and a handwritten paper menu. On the latter, the chef offers Creamy Tomato Soup, Veggie Chili and four appetizers, such as Grilled Seasonal Veggies and Wild Mushroom Paté. Then two salads (Apple and Blue Cheese and Roasted Beet with Shaved Fennel) and two entrees (Rosemary Chicken Flatbread and Balsamic Portobello Flatbread) round out the paper menu. At the bottom the featured casual fare is listed.

That’s where the slate menu, the one that changes daily, comes in. For an appetizer we had to choose between roasted garlic and the charcuterie plate. We picked the plate. It could have been the meal, so rich with flavor and such a generous portion that two diners barely finished every morsel. On the paté plate, the variety of flavors played against each other in a wild potpourri of color and texture. There were three patés, a tiny cinnamon apple that exploded with flavor, marinated carrots, green beans, some grainy mustard and bread to pull it together.

We wondered if our entrees would be anticlimactic. Thankfully, they were equally delicious. My friend’s Mahi Mahi Tacos with spicy slaw and cilantro rice were worthy of San Diego’s best, and my Grilled Salmon over Creamy Polenta with Mushroom Infused Lentils and Goat Cheese far exceeded expectations.

On Mondays at 11 a.m., The Noble opens for brunch. I stopped in at 3 p.m. and found a party I wanted to join. I would have ordered Baked Eggs over Ham and Greens, smothered with Herb-Cream Sauce. Or I might have tried the Sweet and Savory Grilled Pear with the Cream Cheese Butter Cake and Red Wine Reduction.

The Noble is closed on Sunday, open for dinner Tuesday-Saturday; they don’t take reservations.

»The Noble
704 S. 2nd St.
(414) 243-4997
www.thenoble.com
 





 

This story ran in the July 2012 issue of: