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The dish/What's new in city dining
Joey Gerard's

By CARI TAYLOR-CARLSON 

January 2013

Photo courtesy of Bartolotta Group

Rave reviews of Joey Gerard’s preceded our visit to the latest addition to the Bartolotta Restaurants roster. Joe Bartolotta’s two namesake restaurants, one in Greendale and one in Mequon, harken back to a time before we counted calories; a time when menus featured liver and onions, meatloaf and beef stroganoff. If those dinners sound like they came straight off a menu from the ’40s and ’50s, it’s because Joey Gerard’s bills itself as a Bartolotta Supper Club.

We started with a complimentary classic relish tray of carrot and celery sticks, radishes, green onions, black olives and a dipping dressing with a hint of anchovy. Only missing was the traditional liver paté, but I replaced it with my entrée. Diners may add to this healthy starter with a Lazy Susan, e.g. the Fisherman, a selection of herring, smoked trout, sardines, pickled veggies and whitefish spread.

From a menu that listed everything from sandwiches and burgers with fries and slaw, a family-style menu for groups, and the ever-popular mac and cheese on the kids menu, we chose New York Strip and Sautéed Calves Liver. The steak, because it’s broiled at 800 degrees, thus sealing in juice and flavor; the liver, why not, it was the Thursday special.

The latter was served with caramelized baby onions, carrot chunks and a rich red wine port sauce filled with complex flavors that perfectly completed the liver. For the few of us who appreciate the nuances of calves liver, it exceeded expectations. The steak, served with breaded cauliflower and blue cheese butter sauce, turned out to be problematic. However, the manager took good care of my friend, sending her home with another steak dinner, and generously removed the New York Strip from the bill. We both enjoyed a chunk of carrot cake topped with a thick layer of cream cheese frosting, compliments of the house.

Joey Gerard’s is an upscale version of the classic supper club, but the menu is down home. The couple at the next table loved their Trout Almondine and Veal Picatta, and as they sipped Brandy Alexanders, said, "We love this place. It’s our era."

»Joey Gerard’s
11120 N. Cedarburg Road, Mequon
(262) 518-5500
5601 Broad St., Greendale
(414) 858-1900
www.Joeygerards.com





 

This story ran in the January 2013 issue of: