| Photo courtesy
of Bartolotta Group |
 |
Rave reviews of
Joey Gerard’s preceded our visit to the latest addition to the
Bartolotta Restaurants roster. Joe Bartolotta’s two namesake
restaurants, one in Greendale and one in Mequon, harken back to a time
before we counted calories; a time when menus featured liver and
onions, meatloaf and beef stroganoff. If those dinners sound like they
came straight off a menu from the ’40s and ’50s, it’s because
Joey Gerard’s bills itself as a Bartolotta Supper Club.
We started with
a complimentary classic relish tray of carrot and celery sticks,
radishes, green onions, black olives and a dipping dressing with a
hint of anchovy. Only missing was the traditional liver paté, but I
replaced it with my entrée. Diners may add to this healthy starter
with a Lazy Susan, e.g. the Fisherman, a selection of herring, smoked
trout, sardines, pickled veggies and whitefish spread.
From a menu that
listed everything from sandwiches and burgers with fries and slaw, a
family-style menu for groups, and the ever-popular mac and cheese on
the kids menu, we chose New York Strip and Sautéed Calves Liver. The
steak, because it’s broiled at 800 degrees, thus sealing in juice
and flavor; the liver, why not, it was the Thursday special.
The latter was
served with caramelized baby onions, carrot chunks and a rich red wine
port sauce filled with complex flavors that perfectly completed the
liver. For the few of us who appreciate the nuances of calves liver,
it exceeded expectations. The steak, served with breaded cauliflower
and blue cheese butter sauce, turned out to be problematic. However,
the manager took good care of my friend, sending her home with another
steak dinner, and generously removed the New York Strip from the bill.
We both enjoyed a chunk of carrot cake topped with a thick layer of
cream cheese frosting, compliments of the house.
Joey Gerard’s
is an upscale version of the classic supper club, but the menu is down
home. The couple at the next table loved their Trout Almondine and
Veal Picatta, and as they sipped Brandy Alexanders, said, "We
love this place. It’s our era."
»Joey
Gerard’s
11120 N. Cedarburg Road, Mequon
(262) 518-5500
5601 Broad St., Greendale
(414) 858-1900
