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Dish on Dining

By JEANETTE HURT
Photos by Dan Bishop

September 2014

Miss Beverly's Deluxe Barbeque

Barbecue, home cooking, real gastropub drinks and fare, and coffee with pizza all headline the new places that have opened these past few months.

Miss Beverlyís Deluxe Barbeque

Bartolotta Restaurantsí latest incarnation features a new style of cuisine for this restaurant group, but itís been a longtime dream of partner John Wise. "I love barbecue, Joe (Bartolotta) loves barbecue, and it was always in the back of Joeís mind because John was always chirping about it," says Adam Siegel, executive chef for Bartolotta Restaurants.

The decor is rescue-chic. The cash register and serve-yourself soda bar are made from Lake Park Bistroís old zinc bar, while the old wallpaper on the walls was painted over in dark blue. The tables, leftovers from overflow at Joey Gerardís, were battered up, to add character, and topped with paper towel dispensers made from old plumbing parts. At the top of the wall, old concert fliers are collaged together.

There are thick, juicy St. Louis ribs, perfectly brined chicken, Texas hot links and the shredded pork shoulder topped with a choice of four sauces: regular, thick and sweet, Carolina mustard style or hot, hot. Brisket, beef ribs, baby back ribs and fried chicken round out the entrees at the Kansas City-style barbecue joint. "That comes from how they treat the meat ó how it is brined, the lighter rub, and how we donít heavily smoke the meat ó you can still taste the meat," explains Siegel.

Miss Bevís features a slew of great sides, including baked beans, coleslaw, and potato salad. My two favorites were the mac ní cheese and sweet potatoes. Siegel explains how he and his chef team wanted the mac to taste like a souped-up version of the boxed kind. "Itís got 1-year-aged cheddar, yellow mustard, cream and a roux to thicken it with a little bit of American cheese," Siegel says. The pecan and bourbon-laced sweet potato medallions are something sweet dreams are made of and cornbread comes with every order. You can order beer, wine or cocktails from Joey Gerardís next door, or try one of the old-fashioned sodas like Green River or Grape Crush. 5601 Broad St., Suite B, Greendale, (414) 858-1911, missbeverlysbbq.com.

Downtown Kitchen

When Siegel isnít at the new Miss Bevís, heís been working with chefs to open the Downtown Kitchen at the U.S. Bank building. The new food court will feature an 18-foot salad bar and lighter versions of offerings at Pizzeria Piccola and Northpoint Custard, There will also be made-to-order sandwiches, sushi, gluten-free dishes, breakfast meals, pastries, and grab-and-go dinners.

Hom

SURG Restaurant Groupís second Hom restaurant at the Bayshore Town Center features comfort cooking, locavore-style, and a lot more. Flux Design redid the space. Itís farm meets industry with steampunk chic thrown in for fun. Reclaimed wood, both on the wall and ceiling beams, adds a warm touch, while custom-made iron light fixtures and bar accents give it a modern look.

The food, served up by Chef Mark Ray, more than meets the high aesthetic of the restaurantís ambiance. Itís comfort food with a gourmet instinct. Take the pot roast: Almost every grandma makes a mean pot roast, but Rayís pot roast puts them all to shame.

The dish starts with meat from SURGís Hidden Creek Farms, a cross between Black Angus and Wagyu. Itís marinated before roasting in Homís wood-fired grill, which uses only Wisconsin Northwoods cherry and oak. The result is a melt-in-your-mouth tender, laced with fresh thyme and rosemary and topped with a mirepoix of tiny pearl onions and carrots. Sides of black pepper-laced mashed potatoes and roasted fresh green beans were equally well thought out.

The appetizer menu features Spotted Cow-battered Clock Shadow Creamery curds served with homemade ranch and honey mustard dips, and homemade tater tots filled with Gouda and herbs, served with bacon ketchup. Bayshore Town Center, 5750 N. Port Washington Road, Glendale, (414) 312-7043, homwoodfiredgrill.com

Goodkind

A true gastropub offers elevated cuisine and beverages. Bay Viewís new hot spot, Goodkind, fits the bill. A collaboration of husband-and-wife cheffing duo Paul Zerkel and Lisa Kirkpatrick, along with Burnhearts owners Jess and William Seidel and bartender Katie Rose, Goodkind serves up culinary excitement. "We want to make sure that every time you come here, there will be something new and fresh," says Kirkpatrick.

That means the menu on both the food and beverage sides will be tweaked often. One week, the fried chicken could have Moroccan seasonings, the next it could have French. One day, the scallops will be served with fresh broccolini; the next it could be squash. Expect to see apples on the menu this fall, along with more game birds and perhaps goat on the rotisserie.

I had the Morris and Co. gin cocktail, made with St. George terroir gin, Lillet Blanc, homemade spruce and mint syrup with lime and rosewater mist. A single mint leaf floated on top of my drink. It was simply one of the best mixed drinks Iíve had this year. I expect Goodkind to become a Bay View icon much like Palomino, Odd Duck and Pastiche. 2457 S. Wentworth Ave., (414) 763-4706, comingsoon.goodkindbayview.com

Anodyne Coffee

Bay Viewís Anodyne Coffee has moved into the Milwaukee Public Market, taking over from Cedarburg Coffee Roastery. Anodyne Owner Matt McClutchy says the new space will incorporate elements of design from both Anodyneís Walkerís Point and Bay View cafes. It will serve up similar coffee drinks as the two other cafes, but wonít serve beer or wine, which is a new offering at the other locations.

The new wine and beer complement another addition at the Bay View location ó the Italian pizza oven that, at press time, was en route from Italy. "Itís kind of a dream my wife and I have had in the back of our minds for years," McClutchy says. "Nothing beats coffee, but since we moved the coffee roaster out of the Bay View shop to Walkerís Point last year, it kind of ripped the heart out of the cafe a little bit. Itís still Anodyne and awesome, but we thought the cafe needed something back there where the roaster used to be. We think the oven is a perfect fit." The pizza will be traditional Naples style and a welcome addition to my neighborhood. 2920 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., (414) 489-0765, anodynecoffee.com

 







 

This story ran in the September 2014 issue of: