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Divine Dumplings

By SARAH C. LANGE
Photos by Matt Haas

August 2016

"Gnocchi use potato flour.Gnudi are made with ricotta,"explains Centro Cafťís head chef, Crosby Hass, as he sautes house-made gnudi and pancetta in the open kitchen on the restaurantís main floor. "Gnudi are a little lighter and fluffier, while gnocchi are more dense."

Then he adds mushrooms and black pepper. "You donít need salt with the pancetta," he says. Finally, shaved Parmesan and raw spinach flutter into the pan, and seconds later Hass transfers the contents into a bowl and drizzles truffle oil on top ó and layers on more cheese. Hey, weíre in Wisconsin, after all.

For Hass, itís the truffle oil, though, that really dresses up the Italian-inspired dish, one he inherited from the Riverwest restaurantís previous head chef, AJ Dixon. While Hass, who worked alongside Dixon before taking over her role, freshens up the menu with a few new offerings twice a year, the gnudi dish remains popular. With its tender dumplings, satisfying saltiness, punch of pepper and the freshness of the spinach, itís no wonder.

808 E. Center St., (414) 455-3751, centrocaferiverwest.com m

 







 

This story ran in the August  2016 issue of: