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Chicken Out

By SARAH C. LANGE

January 2017

 

 Photography by David Szymanski

In Lindsay Heights, there are a lot of flexitarians, so a lot of people don’t eat pork or beef but will eat chicken without batting an eye,” says Caitlin Cullen, chef at The Tandem. To that end, she offers three options: a Dominican-style roasted chicken for health-conscious diners; Georgia fried, which she explains is a traditional fried chicken; and spicy, Memphis-style fried chicken, pictured here. “It’s got a kick to it,” she says. “It’s a hot-sauce batter, and it’s hot-sauce brined for at least 24 hours.” Because the batter uses cornstarch, it’s also gluten-free.

At dinner, The Tandem serves family style, so you can share a whole chicken with your tablemates and choose from a variety of sides designed to complement the star of the show. You might pick sous chef Joe Sutter’s mac and cheese made with sharp and mild cheddar cheeses

and heavy cream, coleslaw with cabbage sourced from LotFotL in Elkhorn and freshened up with cilantro, and bean salad that incorporates whatever dried beans the kitchen has on hand. In this one, black beans mingle with carrots, bell peppers, red onion, cilantro, lime juice and cider vinegar. “It’s pretty fresh and bright for being full of beans,” Cullen says.

The community-oriented restaurant, open since November, employs about 20 people from the neighborhood and expresses its “in tandem” theme throughout the décor too: from the bicycle over the bar to the funky light fixtures to the bike wheels that adorn the patio. 1848 W. Fond du Lac Ave., (414) 885-1919, tandemmke.com






 

This story ran in the January 2017 issue of: