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The dish: what's new in city dining
McCormick & Schmick's 

By CARI TAYLOR-CARLSON

July 2008

When we arrived at McCormick & Schmick’s, we noticed diners leaving with doggie bags. Now we know why. They weren’t for the dogs. Servers dressed in black and white and white tablecloths add elegance to this franchise restaurant that started in Portland. People who return often for the fresh seafood — emphasis fresh — can join the Preferred Guest Program and earn one point for every dollar spent. Then, benefits accrue, ending with the ultimate prize, a three-day trip for two to the Oregon Wine country for a mere 20,000 points. Meanwhile, members receive priority seating and a certificate for a free entrée on their birthday.

It’s all good, and so is the food. "This is our daily menu," Lori, our server said. "The seafood is flown in every day, twice a day. When he sees the catch, the chef makes up the menu based on what’s fresh." To add authenticity to that promise, the dinner menu had yet to be decided at 1:30 p.m. as the afternoon delivery was en route.

"Our chef, Dan Smith, has free rein to create new dishes. There’s no set ‘this is what we do with salmon’ here." The Fresh List at the top of the menu presents the daily catch, usually more than 20 potential entrees, including catfish from Hickory, N.C., my entrée, and the Newfoundland Atlantic salmon, my friend’s choice for her entrée salad. My Blackened Catfish served with Sweet Potato Hash, Basil Oil and Fried Onion Rings had just enough heat to make it interesting without overpowering the delicate flavor of the fish. Likewise, the salmon, with a wasabi peanut crust maintained a delicate flavor that merged well with the sweet, spicy orange dressing.

Twice Baked Apple Pie with a caramelized nut crust and homemade cinnamon ice cream lived up to its hype. But, twice baked? "Yes, the pastry chef actually bakes it twice," said Lori. We barely contained our euphoria as we devoured the pie. We left with sated smiles. We did not leave with doggie bags.

McCormick & Schmick’s
2550 N. Mayfair Road, Wauwatosa, (next to Mayfair Mall)(414) 475-0700.

 


This story ran in the July 2008 issue of: