Then I visited Le R ve. Three owners, Therese Hittman, Andy Schneider and Bryan Phillips, each spent time in one of Sandy D’Amato’s kitchens, leading to high expectations for their collaboration. They scored at Le R ve, and from observing the size of the crowd at lunchtime on a weekday, this is not a well-kept secret.

We sat at a small table for two upstairs with a fine view of downstairs, where customers lined up to place their orders. Here’s how the counter/table service works. You pick from a limited menu (a welcome change from long pompous lists found elsewhere), pay when you order and take a number to your table. With barely a pause, a cooked-to-order meal appears; a remarkable feat considering the number of diners at noon on a Wednesday.

In this remodeled 1930s bank in the heart of Wauwatosa, the owners erased all signs of former money-changing and turned the lofty space into a French café. Le R ve, or "dream" in French, suggests something perhaps more ethereal. This dream, grounded in classic French country cuisine, has substance.

Come for breakfast and order a freshly baked croissant or a brioche, or choose something sweet, a beignet, an apple turnover or a cinnamon roll. For a hearty breakfast, choose from three cr pes: ham, Brie and caramelized onion, ratatouille with cheve or my friend’s luncheon pick, the Poulet Cr pe filled with chicken, leek, tomato and cheese, and bound with thyme sauce. Served with a lightly dressed green salad, this made a satisfying luncheon dish. "I taste complex flavors in every bite," said my luncheon companion.

Likewise, the Country Paté, a sandwich with Gruyère, Dijon mustard, cornichones and generous slices of paté served on a chewy baguette brought back memories of leisurely hours on the Left Bank watching the French promenade. We finished with pastries, too pretty for forks, a Chocolate Raspberry Dome and a multilayered Opera Tart. Attention foodies, life is good on Harwood Avenue at Le Reve.

»Le Reve
7610 Harwood Ave., Wauwatosa
(414) 778-3333