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Chef speak: Tom Peschong  Executive chef Riversite Restaurant, Mequon

By PAM PERCY

September 2008

Chef Tom Peschong and his son, Simon, forage for mushrooms.


Tom Peschong has a thing for mushrooms. He loves cooking with them, claiming they add oomph to a dish. His menus invariably offer delicious mushroomy items, including a to-die-for Mushroom Dusted Tuna with roasted shitake relish. His favorites include chanterelles, with their meaty texture and sweet and delicate taste; hen-of-the woods, with a crisp, woodsy texture that is not overpowering; and morels for their unique taste.

Peschong also uses 5 pounds of log-grown shitakes a week that he gets from Field & Forest in Peshtigo. The Riversite will even host the annual Mycological Society dinner on Sept. 22.

Peschong grew up in a cooking family, which includes six sisters and three brothers, all of whom are great cooks. He received his formal culinary training in the Twin Cities and later helped launch Le Restaurant in Thiensville, where the late Milwaukee Journal-Sentinel restaurant critic Dennis Ghetto awarded him a coveted "Four Hats." At The Riversite since 1990, he also worked at the old Fleur de Lis, as well as Jean Paul’s and Brynwood Country Club.

He lives with his wife, Sheila, also a foodie, and 7-year old son, Simon, in Cedarburg.

 

 

 

 

 

Roulade of Chicken withDuxelles and Spinach (pictured)

(Serves 8)

4 chicken breasts (8 halves), skin on, not split, tenders removed

3 tablespoons butter

1 pound spinach, washed and picked over

2 cups mushroom duxelles (see recipe below)

3 cups chicken stock

Salt and pepper

Arrowroot, for thickening, if needed

1. Remove the rib cage from the chicken breast, leaving skin intact. Flatten breasts to a consistent thickness.

2. Wilt spinach in butter; cool and drain excess liquid.

3. Season chicken breast with salt and pepper.

4. Divide and spread spinach evenly on the chicken. Top with duxelles mixture.

5. Roll and tuck chicken breasts, (jelly roll style), until closed.

6. Poach chicken in stock until slightly firm, approximately 20 minutes at 375° F.

7. Remove and cool, reserving stock.

8. Reduce chicken stock until thickened, adding a little arrowroot, if necessary.

9. Place chicken back in the 375° F oven until cooked through and the skin is crisp (about 15 minutes).

10. Serve with reduced poaching liquid.

 

Basic Duxelles (pronounced dook-SEHL)

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 cup shallots or sweet white onion, finely chopped

3 pounds mushrooms (any combination of your favorite mushrooms), finely chop or pulse in batches in the food processor

8 chicken tenders, processed in food processor or finely chopped

3 tablespoons heavy cream

1/4 cup herbs (any combination of flat leaf parsley, tarragon or thyme)

Salt and pepper to taste

1. Sweat butter and shallots for about five minutes, until translucent, stirring occasionally but do not brown.

2. Add mushrooms and continue cooking on a low heat until the mixture becomes dry (about 20 minutes).

3. Add cream and cook until the liquid has evaporated.

4. Add herbs and adjust seasoning to taste.

5. Add the processed tenders, stir and remove from heat.

Peschong’s Wine Pairing:

Both a red and white pair well with this dish. For white wine lovers, a creamy Simi Russian River Reserve Chardonnay is suggested. If a red is your preference, try a Cote de Crows from Morgan Winery in California, a Syrah and Grenache blend that is easy to enjoy.

Foraging for Mushrooms:

The chef enjoys foraging for mushrooms, whether solo or with his wife and son. The Kettle Moraine area is among his favorite stomping grounds. He’s found chanterells, saddle mushrooms, shaggy manes, morels, puff balls, maitakes and other varieties for his dishes. "Mushroom hunting is like fishing," Peschong says.

Step 1:

Although you would prefer a nice day for a walk in the woods, be sure to dress for the weather, which is a determining factor in mushroom hunting. A hot day following a rain is best for some varieties while others seem to like cool nights toward the end of summer.

Step 2:

Know where to look. Mushrooms are often found near dead wood and downed old trees. Morels usually grow on south slopes near decaying elm trees or even in apple orchards. Puff balls most often make their home in meadows.

Step 3:

Once you find a good location, especially for hen-of-the-woods (maitake), return to the same spot the next year and you may find them again. Collect only firm, fresh mushrooms and be sure to check their flesh for insects and worms.

Step 4:

Peschong suggests carrying two guidebooks for cross-referencing. Unless you are experienced, don’t eat any discoveries until first checking a photo identification.

 


This story ran in the September 2008 issue of: