for when you don’t want to cook dinner 03-04-19 This one is about
real food. Not fancified,
froufrou, food-writer food. No scallops of veal or veal of
scallops, no soupçons of creme anglaise or artistically
arranged swirls of demiglace.
Profile: Jessica Bell of HaloVino
Jessica Bell hated lugging fragile glasses around when
she taught wine classes out of town. But the other option — using
plastic cups — left a bad taste in her mouth. And a bad aroma in her
nose. A certified sommelier, Bell wondered if there might be a
reusable, recyclable, dishwasher-safe, plastic glass that could
bring out the best of her vintages while on the go.
Credit a blizzard for Outpost Natural
Food Cooperative’s most successful community-giving
effort. In 1999, knowing its mission and civic-minded
customer base well, the then 29-year-old, single-store grocery co-op
launched a traditional food donation campaign (think big cardboard
boxes and lots of cans). And on the day the items were to be
distributed to local food pantries and shelters, Mother Nature threw
in her two cents.
Profile: Bryce and Jen Riemer of Riemer Family Farm Bryce Riemer always loved his family’s historic farmhouse in
Brodhead, Wis., but he didn’t see a future in farming. While he was
working as a guidance counselor and his wife, Jen, was working as a
track coach in Crystal Lake, Ill., they bought a quarter of beef
from his father that changed everything. Eight years ago, they moved
back to Wisconsin, and today they’re the third generation to run a
full-time, regenerative farm with their three daughters: Elli, 13,
Kalena, 11, and Caroline, 5.
your skills Whether it’s the secret to making a good stock, the knife skills
needed to debone a chicken, or the basics of bread making, cooking
classes can enhance the repertoire and recipes for at-home cooks. To
begin — or even continue — your kitchen education locally, here we
rounded up seven options.
The Dish: Pan-roasted pork chop served with
Parmesan gnocchi, arugula pesto, cremini mushrooms, and a pork demi-glace
The Chef: Richard Sweed, executive chef of Artisan 179
The Rise Not so long ago, if
the question was vermouth, the answer was sweet or dry. White or
red. And chances are, there was just one green-bottled brand.
Season: Rhubarb The Ingredient: Rhubarb The
Recipe: Meyn’s Flour Mill Rhubarb Coffee Cake The Chef: Mark Weber,
director of culinary operations for Marcus Hotels & Resorts Makes
one 8-inch cake that serves 6-8 people.
Season: Asparagus The Ingredient: Asparagus
The Dish: Spring pea and asparagus risotto The Chef: Heather Terhune,
executive chef of Tre Rivali and The Outsider
PROFILE: ALAN AND LAURA SWAN, CJ'S PREMIUM SPICES
The idea was simple: Create a blend of spices for
foolproof potato salad that anyone could use. But there was a catch:
Use no additives or preservatives, and still feature shelf
stability. Professional pilot Alan Swan and his wife, Laura, who
works in corporate retail, achieved their goal, and together,
they’re now expanding CJ’s Premium Spices, looking to reach more
home and commercial cooks.
Gut-Friendly Food And Drinks
Between 25 million and 45 million people in the
United States experience irritable bowel syndrome (IBS), marked by
abdominal discomfort or pain as well as an altered bowel habit,
according to the International Foundation for Functional
Gastrointestinal Disorders. But new research suggests relief may
come from simply changing the way you eat.
Crunchy Add a sweet touch to your
smoothie bowl or yogurt parfait with locally made granola.
Season: Kale Kale. This dark, leafy
green trends as a superfood — it’s one of the most nutritionally
dense foods on the planet, and smart chefs know how to balance out
its bitterness and bring out its complexity.
Season: Blood Oranges The
temperatures have dropped and snow is on the ground, but the smell
of citrus and berries is in the air. January marks the peak of blood
orange season, and this garnet-hued fruit adds a burst of flavor and
color to salads, desserts and even cocktails. Try Le Reve’s blood
orange vinaigrette over a salad of wintry greens.
Last July, Sabina Magyar, pencil in hand, sat with
her head down in a room with more than 150 people during the
American Cheese Society (ACS) Conference & Competition in Des
It’s no secret that Milwaukee area chefs have fully embraced the
farm-to-table food trend — a win-win for both diners and farmers alike.
“The local food movement has been around for nearly 30 years. … Within
100 miles of the city, you can get a ton of stuff,” says La Merenda and
Engine Company No. 3 chef/owner Peter Sandroni, a longtime proponent of
Growing up in Madison, Nick Nowaczyk’s family felt a
deep connection with nature and its bounty. They played outdoors and
picked wild mushrooms, and they ate homemade sauerkraut and
vegetables they canned themselves, as well as lots of fresh fruits
things you may not know about hard cider Hard cider makes up
the fastest growing category in booze, but considering it makes up
only a little more than 1 percent of liquor sales, you’re forgiven
if you don’t know much about it. Here are five things you might not
know about hard cider, plus five places to enjoy it locally.
Match Made in Decadent Heaven Open
the bottle, and a chocolate aroma envelops you. Slowly take a sip,
and the sweetness of brandy flows over your tongue. Chocolate and
brandy — it’s a match made heavenly in Kohler, with the first ever
release of Kohler Original Recipe Chocolates Dark Chocolate Brandy.
foodie's week in MKE In
Milwaukee, you could pack in a different food-centric event for every
night of the week if you really wanted. In fact, for one week in
September, we’ve done the work for you! Whether you’re ambitious
enough to attend them all, or decide to make just one or two, is up to
coffee. It’s sort of like sun tea, but without the sun and without
the tea. Long, long steeping, with cold, cold water equals delicious
java with less bitterness. And in Milwaukee, there are plenty of
places to sip these iced beauties, but the newest twist is cold-brewed
coffee cocktails. Here are five takes on new steeps.
the rod Choosing
just one dish to represent the breadth of international fare on the
menu at Brady Street’s Easy Tyger is no easy task.
summertime, folks go rum running. Interest in rum in all of its tasty,
molasses-based glory is growing, as mojitos, mai tais and even upscale
cuba libres are perfect patio sippers.
dumplings Gnocchi use
potato flour.Gnudi are made with ricotta,"explains Centro Café’s
head chef, Crosby Hass, as he sautes house-made gnudi and pancetta in
the open kitchen on the restaurant’s main floor. "Gnudi are a
little lighter and fluffier, while gnocchi are more dense."
pulling The line on
Second Street stretched two blocks. The reason? Milwaukee Brewing
Company was releasing its limited edition, barrel-aged O-Gii beer.
of summer Asparagus’s
flavor peaks during the summer season, and Amilinda’s asparagus
pâté dish delightfully showcases the vegetable at its prime. The
pâté itself, which combines fresh asparagus sourced from Wellspring’s
certified organic farm, cream, white wine, shallots, garlic and
Landmark Creamery anabasque cheese, is spread across a duo of crostini
sliced from a Rocket Baby Bakery baguette.
first blush The glass
shimmers a hue that ranges from the barest blush to the deepest pink,
but don’t let its color fool you; it’s not white zinfandel or some
other sweet wine. Rosé wine is a great dry wine, especially for
spring and summer. "They’re really these beautiful, elegant
wines, and they tend to have such a great freshness to them,"
says Talish Barrow, certified sommelier for Rare steakhouses in
Milwaukee and Madison.
Realness A Wisconsin
holiday tradition, cannibal sandwiches were present at nearly every
seasonal gathering I remember growing up. I’d watch my parents and
their friends schmear raw ground beef across a slice of rye bread, top
it with raw onion, and then add a dash of salt and pepper. I was,
admittedly, equally disgusted and intrigued. It wasn’t until later
in life, when I became much more adventurous with food, that I
understood their appeal.
stance on seafood It’s no
secret that seafood is generally a healthier, more nutrient-dense
alternative to red meat. "In general, seafood tends to be lower
in saturated fat than red meat. It also contains omega-3 fatty acids,
which help to decrease inflammation," explains Michelle Black, a
registered dietician with Oconomowoc-based NuGenesis.
39-year-old Andrew Carini, wine is in his blood. Four years after
relocating to California to work in the restaurant industry, the Port
Washington native started Carini Wine in 2000. Today, the self-taught
winemaker sells his wines for $50 to $75 per bottle.
wine are you? Sommelier
Jessica Bell pairs wines with personality types. See if you can find
yourself a bottle or pick up one for a good friend.
fresh take on an age-old cocktail Order an
old-fashioned in every part of the country except Wisconsin, and what
you’ll get is a variation of what was once called "the whiskey
cocktail." Back in the 19th century, bartenders mixed this simple
drink with whiskey, bitters, sugar and water, and maybe added a lemon
peel as garnish.
and Dine An annual
event expected to draw up to 7,000 attendees this year, the Kohler
Food and Wine Experience returns for its 15th year, set to occur Oct.
22 to 25 in Kohler, Wis.
certain dishes worth indulging in, and the berries, bananas and cream
crepe at Story Hill BKC is one of them.
salsa solution In 2011,
Angela Moragne, a lifelong Milwaukee resident, found herself in the
most unwelcome of situations — her employer, a nonprofit housing
development, announced it was shutting its doors, and she was left
success Ten years
ago, Guy Rehorst took a big chance when he opened up Great Lakes
Distillery, the first distillery to open in the state of Wisconsin
since Prohibition. His experiment was a great success, and now there
are more than 50 distilleries across the state.
significance of stemware Once a
year, Lorelei Mustas tries an experiment with her customers at Vina
Mundi in Genesee Depot. She takes one of her stellar wines and then
pours it into four different glasses — a nice, vintage appropriate
glass, "a crummy, old, icky gramma’s glass with a thick, rolled
lip on it," a water glass and a plastic cup.
it with Sangria Sangria. It’s
the ultimate party punch and patio pounder. In Spain, tourists drink
sangria at bars while Spaniards drink it only at home and at parties.
A good sangria starts with a good wine and fresh fruit, then other
liqueurs and spirits are added, along with sugar.
Pimento When Martha
Davis Kipcak moved to Wisconsin in 1998, she scoured Milwaukee grocery
stores in search of her favorite snack. But her efforts were to no
avail — there was simply no pimento cheese anywhere.
skill worth learning Alamelu
Vairavan is the kind of person who greets you with a hug, not a
arrived at her home in Whitefish Bay on a sunny December morning and
was welcomed inside with a warm smile and gentle embrace.
the Hard Cider What’s
the fastest growing alcoholic beverage category? Craft beer? Boutique
wines? Artisan cocktails?
perfect pairing There’s
an almost magical element to wine dinners done right. You take a sip
of wine, and then you take a bite of food, and then you taste them
together. Trying them separately, they are delicious, but when tasted
together, they become sublime.
brothers of German and Irish descent starting a craft beer business?
It’s really not too much of a stretch, they say. "No ancestors
that we know of are brewers, but beer drinking is in our
bloodline," says Jimmy Gohsman, 28, who acts as brewmaster for
the new 4 Brothers Blended Beer Co. in Waukesha.
your soul "My
Grandma Engel’s German Potato Torte. I asked for the recipe once,
and she refused; she only gave recipes to her daughters. My aunt gave
it to me, so I make it every now and again, and it reminds me where I
come from. There is nothing better than food made by and shared with
family and friends."
cookies with twist No more
gingerbread men! The Gingerbread Drop gives you the warm, spicy
gingerbread cookie taste in a soft cookie that has lots of depth and
texture. The unexpected taste of the cream cheese frosting and
peppermint will make folks wonder why anyone would go to the effort of
making those gingerbread men ever again.
coast to coast People in
other parts of the country are discovering what Wisconsinites have
known all along — a friendly demeanor and the liberal use of cheese
is an almost guaranteed recipe for success.
wines for any budget If you’re
looking for a special wine for a big celebration or just a bottle of
red to go with take-out pizza, local wine pros have got you covered.
Here are their picks for their favorite high-end wines as well as
their go-to vino that’s priced right.
selecting cheeses for entertaining, Patty Peterson of Larry’s Market
in Brown Deer has three simple tips: Limit the selection to three to
five cheeses with a good balance of flavors, textures, colors, shapes
of the south New
restaurants, a new menu and a new brew pub: What’s not to love about
Milwaukee’s South Side? This month the culinary place to be is
Avenue is an East Side iconic destination where people congregate for
food, fun and libations in a blend of historic locales and new
Carlisle and Sprecher take root The new
dinner service at the Bossa Nova dining room of KASANA Café is filled
with culinary delights — from a savory burger, enhanced by dates and
topped with blue cheese; to chicken vatava, a Brazilian creamy
casserole made with coconut milk and onions; to Xingu Brazilian beer,
a black beer that’s light and slightly sweet; to a creamy, to a
mousse-like dark chocolate dessert that’s made with no sugar yet
tastes as decadent as can be.
rising Bob Purman
couldn’t get the crisp, clean taste of hard, French cider out of his
mind after he and his wife, Yannique, visited France. In fact, it was
a series of French vacations that led these two Milwaukeeans to start
their Door County cider orchard and tasting room.
view Park your bike
on Alterra Bay View Café & Bakery’s vertical rack, find a place
on the patio and grab an iced chai. At one of Bay View’s busiest
corners, there’s plenty of people-watching to do. 2301 S.
Kinnickinnic Ave., (414) 744-6117, alterracoffee.com.
Cakes and Spirits "Hot
time, summer in the city, back of my neck getting burnt and gritty…"Cool town, evening
in the city, looking so fine and looking so pretty." Lovin
Spoonful, I’m sure, wasn’t thinking about Milwaukee’s summer
dining and drinking options, but boy, are these new options pretty and
Wheat is the
culprit in weight gain, heart disease, diabetes and a host of other
maladies, according to Dr. William Davis, a local interventional
cardiologist. His book, "Wheat Belly," laid out the argument
for a wheat-free lifestyle; it became a No. 1 bestseller on the New
York Times list in 2012 and spent nearly a year on the list.
no better place to be than Milwaukee in summer, when beer, food, music
and fun are served up under the sun and stars at the city’s
signature beer gardens. It’s a German tradition with a few new
twists, so raise a mug and Prosit!
Ward Plan on
heading to a festival this summer? Spend some time in the Third Ward
before or after for a unique shopping and dining experience.
Bier, BelAir and The Bay Flowers
have blushed into full bloom, wet and snowy days have long since
melted into memories, and Milwaukeeans, emerged from hibernation, seek
all things sun. Patio season is finally here, and this year’s
arrival comes with exciting new outdoor dining and drinking options.
Markets Old Man
Winter has finally taken the snow back to his chilly man cave. Now is
the time for daffodils, with lettuce and Swiss chard not far behind.
Fresh produce and cut flower fans eagerly anticipate the pending
growing season, with the value-added factor of sociability at farmers
for cuisine Hop on
board the bus for culinary adventures — and leave the driving to
Milwaukee Food Tours. Theresa Nemetz and husband Wade will ensure a
good time, grand fun and an exciting peek into the city’s history,
all rolled into one jolly excursion.
Milwaukee Pantry Milwaukeeans
love their food and drink during the holidays. A well-stocked pantry
in preparation for the party season should include a goodly supply of
the following locally produced goodies.
of fortune It began
with a cheese curds conundrum. Bob Wills, owner of Cedar Grove Cheese
in Plain, Wis., struggled to deliver fresh curds — so fresh, they
squeak — to Milwaukee retailers by early afternoon each day. The
240-mile round trip posed a challenge.
stuff For the
sweet-toothed person in your life, a sugar-coated treat with
Milwaukee-area ties is the perfect gift for the holidays.
art of food Remember
that chocolate bar you adored as a child? First introduced by the
Hershey Co. in 1978, it’s comprised of peanut-flavored crisps with
layers of milk chocolate and peanut butter. c.1880, a
less-than-year-old restaurant in Walker’s Point, has gone to town on
deconstructing its caramel, peanut and chocolate ingredients.
Milwaukee, where 19th century beer barons like Joseph Schlitz and
Capt. Frederick Pabst put Brew City on the map as a drinking town,
wine has at last caught up. Wine bars are sprinkled throughout
neighborhoods from Bay View to Brookfield.
thanks, Wisconsin style Mark the
national holiday and celebrate our Wisconsin bounty by cooking a
Thanksgiving dinner made almost entirely from local ingredients.
dish/What's new in city dining At Mozzaluna, the
Margherita, the classic Italian pizza made with tomato sauce, mozzarella,
basil, olive oil and oregano, comes in one size, medium.
course Three new Walker’s
Point eateries embrace late-1800s décor with cutting-edge design that
relies upon craftsmanship using mostly salvaged materials. Flashy,
showy accents akin to many urban dining rooms are discarded in favor
of a cozy ambiance that’s in perfect pitch with its farm-to-table
its best Sometimes you
feel like merely dining from a small plate with an accompanying wine.
Combine delicious meats, a touch of cheese and a good pour. What more
does one need on an almost-spring eve?
Out of the
zone Sometimes, to get
out of a rut, you have to think outside of the plate and detour from
familiar foods. Two years ago, TIME Magazine coined the phrase "discomfort
dining" to describe it, and a new
adventurous approach to eating out.
thought The season’s
open houses, potlucks and parties are the perfect excuse for home
cooks to challenge themselves with new recipes, exotic ingredients and
savvy techniques. What better place to acquire these skills than from
the master, a chef?
The dish on
restaurant scene is always in a flux, whether due to the economy,
desire for something new or to update with the times. So what’s
happening these days in the local world of pots and pans?
Jour What can be said
about French onion soup that hasn’t been said before? Well, lots.
Especially since versions of this great dish have been around since
the ancient Romans, so there is always more to add to the story. The
soup started humbly, because onions were easy to grow and subsequently
plentiful in the good old days.
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