Someday, but not today.

The Golf hatchback has many virtues, but this sixth generation of VW's best-selling car remains seasoned for German palates. It's a tasty side dish, but not the car that will make the company a staple in American households.

Prices for the 2010 Golf start at $17,620 for a two-door with a five-speed manual transmission and 170-horsepower 2.5-liter five-cylinder engine. Stepping up to a six-speed automatic raises the base price to $18,720. The four-door Golf starts at $19,335 with the same engine and a six-speed automatic.

VW also offers a fuel-efficient, 2.0-liter four-cylinder turbodiesel in the Golf TDI.

Prices start at $22,155 for a two-door TDI with a manual six-speed and $23,255 with a dual-clutch transmission that combines the efficiency of a manual with the operating ease of an automatic. The four-door TDI starts at $22,760 with the manual gearbox and $23,860 with the dual-clutch.

The GTI is the Golf's sporty model, though it no longer bears the Golf badge. The GTI has a 200-horsepower turbocharged direct-injection 2.0-liter four-cylinder gasoline engine and a six-speed manual or dual-clutch transmission.

GTI prices start at $23,465 for a two-door with a manual transmission and rise to $25,170 for a four-door with the dual-clutch.

I tested a four-door Golf with the 2.5-liter engine and an automatic transmission that stickered at $20,614 and a two-door manual-transmission GTI that cost a daunting $27,155. All prices exclude destination charges.

The Golf competes with mainstream compacts like the Ford Focus, Honda Civic, Mazda 3 and Nissan Sentra.

The GTI squares off against sportier compacts like the Honda Civic Si, Mazdaspeed 3 and Mini Cooper.

VW crafted the Golf model line with German customers in mind. The enjoyable but pricey GTI performance model and very fuel-efficient TDI diesel hit German buyers' sweet tooth like strudel bathed in cream.

Conversely, the Golf's primary U.S. engine, the 2.5-liter five-cylinder, is a trivially minor player in Europe. The engine's unexceptional fuel economy, refinement and power don't weaken the Golf's appeal in Germany, where the vast majority of buyers will pick a diesel or smaller gasoline engine.

It's a drawback in the U.S., however, where the Golf faces smoother and more fuel-efficient engines from a range of competitors.

The 2.5-liter Golf's EPA fuel economy rating of 23 mpg in the city and 30 mpg on the highway trails thrifty compacts like the Focus, Civic and even the aging Chevrolet Cobalt.

The 2.5-liter engine produces more power, but the Golf's 3,023-pound curb weight offsets that advantage.

The automatic transmission shifts smoothly, but highway acceleration suffers as the gearbox pauses before downshifting to wring maximum performance from the engine.

The Golf's handling, however, is terrific. The car remains stable at high speeds and perfectly composed in quick maneuvers.

The brakes have plenty of stopping power and firm pedal feel. The Golf's electric power steering is precise, quick and firm.

The GTI raises the Golf's handling to an even more exalted level. It provides better grip and response, while its free-revving engine generates 207 pound-feet of torque from 1,800 to 5,000 rpm for good acceleration at all speeds.

The GTI is a joy to drive, though the price of the car I tested is considerably higher than competitors like the Civic Si, Mazdaspeed 3 and Mini Cooper.

The Golf's interior is practical and attractive. A high roof creates plenty of passenger space, while the hatchback body style bestows a practicality no small sedan can match.

The exterior styling is ... well, Golf-like.

VW's best-selling car by a wide margin, the Golf has such a loyal following that the new car's evolutionary design changes will seem minor to anyone who's not a student of the car's 36-year history. A widened, two-bar grille and headlights that wrap into the front fenders are the most obvious changes to the all-new 2010 Golf's appearance.

The GTI's new look is more apparent, thanks to its black honeycomb grille with red pinstripes and low-mounted fog lights.

The 2010 Golf and GTI are solid, enjoyable cars. Buyers hungering for a taste of the Rhineland in their driveways will probably come back for seconds, but the cars are not likely to win VW many new customers.

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VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2.5L

Front-wheel drive, four-door five-seat compact hatchback

Rating: Three out of four stars

Price as tested: $20,614 (excluding destination charges)

Reasons to buy: Room, practicality, handling

Shortcomings: Fuel economy, bland looks, price

VOLKSWAGEN GOLF GTI

Front-wheel drive, two-door five-seat sporty compact hatchback

Rating: Three out of four stars

Price as tested: $27,155 (excluding destination charges)

Reasons to buy: Performance, handling, practicality

Shortcoming: Price

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2010 VOLKSWAGEN GOLF AND GTI AT A GLANCE

Front-wheel drive, five-passenger coupe and sedan

Engine: Golf: 170-horsepower, 2.5-liter 20-valve DOHC five-cylinder; 140-horsepower, 2.0-liter direct-injection 16-valve DOHC four-cylinder turbodiesel. GTI: 200-horsepower, direct-injection turbocharged 16-valve SOHC four-cylinder.

Transmission: Golf: Five-speed manual or six-speed automatic with gas engine. GTI: Six-speed manual or dual-clutch.

Price range: Golf: $17,620-$23,860. GTI: $23,465-$25,170 (excluding destination charges).

Key features:

Antilock brakes; electronic stability control; electronic brake-force distribution; curtain air bags; front-seat side air bags; electronic differential lock; front seatbelt pre-tensioners and force limiters; air-conditioning; heated power side mirrors; tilt and telescoping steering column.

Options on test vehicles include: Golf — Power sunroof; heated front seats; Bluetooth connectivity.

GTI — Power sunroof; 18-inch alloy wheels; bi-xenon headlights; Dynaudio sound system.

Competitive EPA fuel economy ratings:

(Automatic transmission. Regular gasoline.)

2010 Volkswagen Golf 2.5L: 23 mpg city/30 mpg highway/26 mpg combined

2010 Ford Focus: 24 mpg city/34 mpg highway/28 mpg combined

2010 Honda Civic: 25 mpg city/36 mpg highway/29 mpg combined

2010 Nissan Sentra 2.5L: 24 mpg city/30 mpg highway/26 mpg combined

(Manual transmission. Premium gasoline.)

2010 Volkswagen GTI: 21 mpg city/31 mpg highway/25 mpg combined.

2010 Honda Civic Si: 21 mpg city/29 mpg highway/24 mpg combined.

2010 Mazdaspeed 3: 18 mpg city/25 mpg highway/21 mpg combined.

2010 Mini Cooper S: 26 mpg city/34 mpg highway/29 mpg combined.

2010 VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2.5L

Vehicle type: Front-wheel drive, four-door five-passenger compact hatchback

Base price: $19,335 (excluding destination charges)

As tested: $20,614

2010 Volkswagen GTI

Vehicle type: Front-wheel drive five-passenger sporty hatchback

Base price: $23,890 (excluding destination charges)

As tested: $27,155

Safety equipment: Antilock brakes; electronic stability control; electronic brake-force distribution; curtain air bags; front-seat side air bags; electronic differential lock; front seatbelt pre-tensioners and force limiters.

Specifications as tested:

Engine: Golf — 2.5-liter DOHC 20-valve inline five-cylinder; GTI — 2.0-liter turbocharged direct-injection DOHC 16-valve four-cylinder.

Power: Golf — 170 horsepower at 5,700 rpm, 177 pound-feet of torque at 4,250 rpm GTI — 200 horsepower at 5,100-6,000 rpm; 207 pound-feet of torque at 1,800-5,000 rpm

Transmission: Golf — Six-speed automatic. GTI — Six-speed manual

Fuel economy: Golf — 23 mpg city/30 mpg highway. Regular gasoline; GTI — 21 mpg city/31 mpg highway. Premium gasoline.

Wheelbase: 101.5 inches

Length: 165.4 inches (GTI — 165.8)

Width: 70.3 inches (GTI — 70.0)

Height: 58.3 inches (GTI — 57.8)

Curb weight: Golf — 3,023 pounds; GTI — 3,034

Where assembled: Wolfsburg, Germany

Comparative base prices (not including destination charges)

(Automatic transmission sedans)

Ford Focus SE: $17,895

Honda Civic LX: $18,405

Mazda 3 I Touring: $18,725

(Manual transmission coupes)

Honda Civic Si: $22,055

Mazdaspeed 3: $23,195

Mini Cooper S: $22,300