My wifeís Toyota Camry is making a humming noise when
in motion, not impacted by wheel turns or by brake
application. It gets louder as you go faster. I have a
feeling that I know what it is, but would appreciate
Is this a setup? If you think you know, why not share
it? So, to make sure Iím unlikely to miss, Iíd
suspect ó in this order ó tire noise, wheel bearing
howl, air leak buzz around windshield or doors,
serpentine belt/idler pulley/alternator or power
steering pump whine, torque converter drone,
transaxle/differential bearing howl, RF static from the
audio system, and last but not least, happy in-laws
humming Christmas carols in the back seat!
We found a 2009 Honda Odyssey that had 14,000 miles on
it. The previous owner had four cars and the van wasnít
used much so he decided to sell it. The Carfax was clean
and itís in excellent shape. We will probably put
about 15,000 to 20,000 miles a year on it, meaning it
will be driven more in the next 12 months than it was in
its first four years. Would this van be a candidate for
synthetic motor oil? The Honda onboard oil life
monitoring system seems to be recommending changes at
about 7,500 miles or so.
Yes, absolutely. In my opinion, virtually every
automotive engine is a candidate for synthetic oil.
Synthetics offer better performance over a wider range
of operating temperatures and better viscosity stability
over its service life. These benefits are small and the
higher cost of synthetics is a very, very small
increment of the overall cost of ownership, operation,
maintenance and repair over the life of the vehicle. To
me, that makes the decision to use synthetic lubricants
an easy one.
Iíd be hard-pressed to go more than roughly 5,000
miles between oil changes. Call me old-fashioned, but Iím
just not comfortable with longer intervals for my
I drive a 2002 Honda CR-V with 97,000 miles on it. A
"check engine" light diagnostic indicated an
oxygen sensor heater was working intermittently and the
recommendation was to replace the "b1s1o2."
Neither an independent auto shop nor a Honda dealer
could really explain why I should spend $500 ($350
parts, $150 labor) if the only issue is slightly
decreased gas mileage. I drive less than 4,000 miles a
year, and 99 percent is city driving, so my mileage hasnít
been great. What is the worst downside of doing nothing
and what would you recommend?
Honda recommends inspecting/cleaning/repairing any
faults in the connectors, harness or circuit from the
engine control module to the "bank 1, sensor 1,
oxygen" ó the front oxygen sensor. Then have the
DTC fault code cleared. If it comes back, Iíd replace
the O2 sensor. My Alldata database confirmed the cost
for the OE sensor at over $350, but a quick Internet
search found reputable brand-name replacement sensors
for your vehicle in the $50-$150 range. These units
require harness splicing, but are significantly less
expensive. Installation should take about 30 minutes.
function of the electrical heater is to stabilize the
sensorís operating temperature, allowing the engine
management system to read and adjust the air/fuel ratio
more accurately. This reduces the burden on the
catalytic converter ó an even more expensive component
ó and optimizes engine performance and economy.
question is valid. Since the sensor is heated by the
exhaust, it still may be supplying air/fuel ratio data,
but because it triggered a fault code the data may not
be accurate or the engine control module may be
substituting a default value, meaning less efficient
operation and potentially more unburned fuel for the
converter to catalyze.