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Under the Hood: Small trailers can be useful, inexpensive

March 8, 2010 


QUESTION: I'm considering the purchase of a small trailer to tow behind my Honda Element for recreational (two small kayaks and maybe an ATV) and occasional landscaping and home construction projects. Could you please shine some light on what I should look for regarding the trailer and hitch? I'd like to keep the trailer as portable as possible, stacking it during storage. Is this reasonable? How large a hitch, can I install it myself? Are the lights difficult to hook up, and what about brakes?

—Jack Albanese

ANSWER: This will be a fun and useful project. Many years back I purchased a similar trailer (a 4'x8' Haulin trailer from Costco for about $300) and have found it to be incredibly useful and a sturdy workhorse.

Some small utility trailers may be portable enough to stack against a fence, but are a bit flimsy upon close inspection —I'd avoid the folding variety. These under-$300 utility trailers typically run tiny but surprisingly capable 8" tires/wheels and have a weight capacity of up to 1000 pounds. They begin as an assemble-it-yourself kit (easy and truly fun to put together) and you'd finish it with a sheet of plywood decking and perhaps some side rails.

The next step is a sturdier $300-500 trailer with 12" wheels and perhaps a 1200-pound to 1500 pound rating. This would be more difficult to stack against a fence or wall (about 300 pounds) but would likely provide a wider range of utilization, a greater margin of operating safety and more durable long-term performance. Good sources for comparing features of each of these trailers are www.harborfreight.com and www.northerntool.com. A sturdier, pre-assembled or commercial-grade trailer from a local trailer retailer is an additional option.

Trailer brake rules vary widely from state to state, but in most cases, brakes aren't required for a trailer this size — less than 1500 lb. gross vehicle weight, or trailer plus cargo weight. You'll also be within the rated towing capacity of your Element, which is 1500 lb. I'd opt for a Class I hitch — up to 2000 lb. GVW, 200 lb. tongue weight. It's considerably more compact and attractive than the beefier Class II or Class III hitches used on larger tow vehicles.

One can purchase an application-specific, bolt-on hitch (some drilling may be required) in either of these categories for less than $200 and a plug-and-play wiring harness kit for about $50. Take a look at www.hitchesforless.com for hitch and light hookup ideas. You can also purchase a standard flat-4 connector and wire it in yourself, after identifying the appropriate circuits. Installing a hitch is fairly easy— try to find one that doesn't require drilling holes in the Element.

When using your trailer, load it so at least 10 percent of its total weight is carried by the hitch. This means placing large items slightly ahead of the axle, and securely tying them down. If the trailer's tongue weight is less than this, it has a greater chance of swaying.

Even though brakes may not be required on a smaller trailer, one must continually keep in mind the effects the trailer may have on vehicle stability during braking. Keep an eye also on tire inflation pressure and periodic wheel-bearing maintenance. The smaller 8" tires require high pressure, perhaps 75 lb., to do their job and spin at high speed due to their small diameter.

 

 


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