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Q: I have a 2012
Honda CRV with a four-cylinder engine; the manufacturer recommends
using 0W20 oil. Every time it starts (since the beginning) it makes
sounds like noisy lifters for a few seconds and then settles down. I
use synthetic oil and have had it changed per the manufacturer’s
recommendation for years. So, to satisfy my curiosity at one point
when it was in for service, I checked with the dealership and they
said it’s normal. I’ve also been listening to other
four-cylinder cars starting up and they seem to be quite noisy too
for the first few seconds. Now I’m an old codger and that sound
used to be associated with oil problems and was a cause for concern
in terms of wear.
— Mike
A: This is a pretty
common complaint with CRVs, Accords and Crosstours built around that
time. The cause of the noise is likely a faulty variable timing
control actuator, per Honda technical service bulletin 09-010,
revised February 2017. While the start-up rattle has been claimed to
be normal in the past, replacement of the part is a good idea,
particularly if one can twist Honda’s arm to do the job under
warranty, or at least with a policy adjustment (mention the TSB).
Some have reported the noise can return, particularly in cold
weather, even with the revised part installed.
Q: My neighbor was
complaining loudly about the cost to have his tire monitoring
sensors replaced due to the batteries beginning to poop out. It got
me thinking, so I went online to price sensors for my car, but there
aren’t any? It has the tire inflation system. How can this be?
It’s a 2014 Accord.
— Sal
A: Your Accord
employs the indirect tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS), which
does not use in-wheel pressure sensors. Instead, careful analysis of
the anti-lock brake system wheel speed and ambient temperature
sensor signals allows the TPMS module to infer incorrect tire
pressure based on wheel speed differential and peak tire resonance.
Say what?
Following a
quick/easy calibration procedure, which should be performed whenever
tires are rotated or replaced, or air is added, wheel speed
characteristics are noted during normal straight-line steady-speed
driving. Information from the lateral acceleration sensor, yaw
sensor, steering angle sensor, master cylinder pressure sensor, and
data from the powertrain control module are used to check wheel
speed status under just the right conditions. A low tire pressure
condition results in a smaller tire diameter, which increases wheel
speed. I’m not smart enough to understand or explain how peak tire
resonance frequency is gleaned from the wheel speed sensor signals,
but it decreases with a low tire! Indirect TPMS systems are not as
accurate as a direct system using sensors and can occasionally
suffer from false alarms. If one brandishes a manual tire pressure
gauge regularly, I think indirect systems are cool due to less
hardware to maintain and easier recalibration.
The calibration
process is an easy DIY procedure employing the TPMS reset button and
indicator. Please refer to owner’s manual or YouTube demos for
details.
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