That was before the 2007 model year, when Chrysler introduced the four-door Wrangler Unlimited. Three years later, it accounts for the lion's share of Jeep Wrangler sales.

For those who spend their lives in urban jungles, it's difficult to understand the Wrangler's appeal. Driven over anything remotely civilized makes the Wrangler shimmy and sway like SUVs of yore. With its removable doors, windows and roof, exposed hinges, hood tie-down clamps and bolt-upright styling, the Wrangler seems like something from another era.

But its adherence to tradition, not to mention its time-tested suspension, makes it the perfect tool for off-road adventures.

The very things about the vehicle that would cause your significant other to question your sanity — its ride, its relatively small size, its ability to crawl over rocks at a single bound — put the Wrangler at a disadvantage when tackling a corner of the highway cloverleaf.

But as the streets of many cities start to resemble the canals of Venice, the Jeep's ride height and four-wheel drive might come in handy.

For 2010, there are three grades: base Sport, midlevel Sahara and range-topping Rubicon.

All models receive a 3.8-liter overhead-valve V6 producing 202 horsepower and 237 foot-pounds of torque. A six-speed manual or optional four-speed automatic transmission is available.

Unlike some SUVs, this one doesn't scream off the line but offers a respectable amount of grunt. It generates some noise initially but settles down once cruising. Mileage was better than expected, given the mix of highway, parkway and park land driving.

Even with four doors and a rear hatch, the Jeep's tidy size made maneuvering easy, whether on concrete or clay. The large steering wheel was welcome, but the steering had a vague feel on-center.

Sport and Sahara models are equipped with Command-Trac, a part-time four-wheel-drive system. An optional limited-slip rear differential, which provides extra grip during slippery situations, is available.

Rubicon models also get electric locking front and rear axles and 32-inch off-road tires.

Safety is a key part of the Wrangler, and all of the expected features are here: electronic-roll protection, stability control, hill-start assist, trailer-sway control and antilock brakes with brake assist. Those last two features can be a hindrance off-road, but Jeep says they have taken that into account when engineering them. Having never gotten to serious boulder bashing, I can't vouch one way or the other.

The Unlimited's changes are minimal for the new model year. Power windows now lower completely and feature one-touch operation. That means you don't have to hold the button to lower it – just one touch and you're good to go.

The windows unplug so you can remove the doors if desired. In addition, Sahara and Rubicon models now feature optional two-tone leather seats.

The Sahara test model has a screen for navigation and satellite radio, activated by a combination of buttons and a touch screen. A touch screen might not seem like a good idea in a vehicle with lots of suspension travel, but in practice it was easier to use than expected.

The interior's ambience reflects the vehicle's heritage. The instrument panel's design is large and chunky. Plastics are best described as hard and durable. Even leather seats wouldn't make this puppy feel luxurious. The cloth seats were spongy but proved perfectly absorbent when bouncing over rugged terrain.

Legroom was good in both front and rear. The rear seats had a short seat bottom cushion but still proved supportive. The same seats fold down to expand the roomy cargo area further.

The Unlimited comes with a soft top, which the company claims is easier to remove this year. But the soft top lets in too much noise. Go for the optional Freedom Top, a three-piece hardtop that's easier to remove and better insulates the cabin from noise and weather.

While other SUVs have tried to cultivate a tough outdoors image, Jeep hasn't had to bother. It's expected, and Jeep delivers.

While many "sophisticated" media types blast the Jeep's on-road behavior, it's those characteristics that make the Wrangler Unlimited a sterling choice where the concrete ends.

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What we say: Iconic American iron

Pro: The perfect tool for off-road

Con: Pitiful plastics

Engine: 3.8-liter V6

Wheelbase: 116 inches

Length: 173.4 inches

Weight: 4,294 pounds

Cargo space: 46.43-86.75 cubic feet

Towing capacity: Up to 3,500 pounds

EPA rating (city/highway): 15/19 mpg

Fuel consumption: 19 mpg

Fuel type: Regular unleaded

Base price: $28,945

As tested: $33,505