| The
best way to keep warm this holiday season is with a
festive twist on the nog and toddy. Here, Southpaw's
Tugboat Egg Nog. |
 |
The
best way to keep warm this holiday season is with a festive
twist on the nog and toddy. Rich, frothy homemade eggnog can
be so decadent, you’ll likely forget about dessert. And
hot toddies are so easy — they’re nothing more than
booze + hot water + sweetener — it’s no wonder they’re
just what the mixologist ordered to keep your insides
toasty.
From a
shaken cocktail nog at San Francisco’s Southpaw to a
smoking twist on the classic hot buttered rum at Oakland,
Calif.’s B-Side BBQ, bartenders are getting into the
holiday spirit with fresh, seasonal ingredients and subtle
twists on old standbys.
At
Five in Berkeley, bartender Oliver Greenlaw crafts the
traditional Five Christmas Nog with eggs, bourbon, nutmeg,
sugar, cinnamon and heavy cream. He infuses the sugar with
vanilla bean for 24 hours before blending it in, and he also
adds dark, unsweetened cocoa powder to give the nog an
unexpected tinge of chocolate.
"My
idea was to get away from the egginess and still have those
flavors of Christmas that people recognize," says
Greenlaw, who recommends separating and beating the egg
whites into soft peaks before folding them into the sugar
mixture. The extra air will give your nog the ultimate
froth, he says. (It’s available at Five through December
for $10 a glass.)
Over
at Southpaw, a shaken cocktail nog has become a standard
since the Southern cooking spot opened in San Francisco’s
Mission district about a year ago.
Bar
manager and co-owner Edward Calhoun grew up on the North
Carolina coast sipping the "cloying stuff" from
the carton. Then one Christmas, a family friend showed up
with the real deal: Rum, spices, eggs and ice cream blended
into a smooth, frothy, pale yellow confection. They let
Calhoun, then 10, have one sip.
"That
became the gold standard for me," he recalls.
"Ever since, I’ve wanted to have that experience
again. But I wanted something that wasn’t as heavy — and
still fun to make."
His
version, available through December for $9, uses single malt
whiskey, spiced rum, amaretto, eggs, milk and a housemade,
winter-spiced syrup of cinnamon, allspice, cloves and star
anise. Calhoun grates a coffee bean on top of the cocktail
instead of sprinkling ground nutmeg. "I think it’s
more aromatically interesting," he says.
ULTIMATE
TODDY
Without
snow as a visual reminder, Connecticut natives Tanya Holland
and Phil Surkis of Oakland’s B-Side BBQ like connecting to
the holiday season through creative cocktails. Their tips
for the ultimate toddy?
"We
try not to use the expensive bourbons because you’re going
to add water," Holland says. "But it still needs
to be of good quality and high in alcohol."
She
also suggests using agave nectar instead of sugar or honey
because it is lighter. Another place to experiment is in the
citrus. "Lemon juice is traditional, but why not try
lime or orange? We’re so fortunate in the Bay Area to have
access to all these wonderful fresh ingredients," she
says.
Their
star toddy this year is the Smoked Buttered Rum ($9), a
dreamy drink that starts by slow-smoking a stick of butter
at 200 degrees on a big rotisserie smoker. Surkis says you
can create the same effect at home using aromatic wood chips
and an electric or charcoal grill.
One
tablespoon of that smoky butter melts atop a thick pint
glass of dark rum, mezcal — a type of agave booze — hot
water, and a spiced sugar syrup made with brown sugar,
cinnamon sticks, nutmeg, star anise and vanilla bean.
"(The
butter) creates such a phenomenal flavor," Surkis says.
MERRY
COCKTAILS
There’s
a lot of inventive flavor and holiday spirit in Five’s 12
Cocktails of Christmas, a seasonal lineup that includes a
toddy called 11 Pipers Piping Hot. The $12 drink started as
a hot apple pie cocktail, but Greenlaw added heavy cream to
the apple cider, dark rum, clove water, brown sugar and
spiced simple syrup for texture and richness.
He
heats the concoction with the cappuccino wand of an espresso
machine, then serves it in a tower glass fitted inside a
metal casing, which keeps the drink warm. "It’s like
a little metal heater inside your glass," he says.
Locanda’s
Shades of Grey is so steamy, you won’t need a heater.
Gabriel Lowe, who directs the bar at the San Francisco
osteria, took a cue from author E.L. James when crafting
this Earl Grey tea toddy, which includes reserve bourbon,
aperol, lemon and a spiced cherry syrup made by soaking
amarena cherries in honey, cloves, cinnamon and brandy for
one year.
The
drink is served "really hot," Lowe says, and
garnished with a tuft of loose tea wrapped in a lemon rind
twist.
"Rich,
boozy, and delicious," he says.
The
perfect holiday prescription.
———
SMOKED
BUTTERED RUM
Makes
1 drink
Note:
Keep leftover sugar syrup in the refrigerator.
Spiced
sugar syrup:
2
quarts water
1 cup
dark brown sugar
1 cup
granulated sugar
3
cinnamon sticks
2
pieces of star anise
1
vanilla bean
¼
teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Smoked
butter:
1
stick unsalted butter
Buttered
rum:
2
ounces Gosling’s dark rum
¼
ounce Vida mezcal
1 ½
ounces spiced sugar syrup
1
tablespoon smoked butter
3
ounces hot water
1.
Place sugar syrup ingredients in a saucepan over medium
heat. Simmer mixture until sugars are completely melted,
about 10 minutes.
2. For
the smoked butter, ignite an electric grill or start a small
fire in a charcoal grill and heat it to about 200 degrees.
For the electric grill, place hickory, mesquite or other
aromatic wood chips in a piece of foil and punch holes in
the foil with a fork; set it on top of the grill grates. For
the charcoal grill, place wood chips directly on the
charcoal. Place a stick of butter on a piece of aluminum
foil on the grill grates. Allow the butter to smoke long
enough to absorb the flavor without melting into your
barbecue, about 15 minutes, if possible.
3.
Fill a 10-ounce glass mug or thick pint glass with very hot
water from a tea kettle; let it warm the glass for about a
minute. Empty glass.
4. Add
rum, mezcal and 1 ½ ounces sugar syrup to the warmed glass;
stir. Place butter on top, then pour in about 3 ounces hot
water. The water will be twice as much as rum mixture. Stir
until the butter has mostly melted and is frothy on top.
Serve immediately.
—Tanya
Holland and Phil Surkis, B-Side BBQ
———
ELEVEN
PIPERS PIPING HOT
Makes
1 drink
Note:
For clove water, steep 10 cloves in 4 tablespoons hot water
for 1 hour.
2
ounces apple juice
1 1/2
ounces Gosling’s black seal rum
1 1/2
ounces clove water
1/2
teaspoon brown sugar
1/2
teaspoon spiced simple syrup
1
ounce cream
Stir
ingredients, then heat with the cappuccino wand of espresso
machine until hot and frothy. Pour into mug or heatproof
glass. Garnish with cinnamon.
—Patrice
Brault and Oliver Greenlaw, Five
———
FIVE
CHRISTMAS NOG
Note:
Use leftover sugar to flavor your coffee or hot cocoa.
Vanilla
sugar:
1 cup
sugar
1
vanilla bean
Nog:
4
whole eggs
1/3
cup vanilla sugar
½
teaspoon cocoa powder
½
teaspoon cinnamon
½
teaspoon nutmeg
1 cup
heavy cream
1 ½
ounces bourbon per cocktail
1.
Slice the vanilla bean in half, place it in the cup of sugar
and let it sit for 24 hours or more to infuse the flavor.
2.
Separate the eggs. Beat yolks until light in color. Add 1/3
cup vanilla sugar and combine until smooth. Add cocoa
powder, cinnamon, nutmeg and cream. Whisk until all
ingredients are thoroughly blended together.
3.
Beat whites to soft peaks, then slowly fold into egg mixture
until light and airy. Adjust nutmeg and cinnamon to taste.
4. To
serve, pour 2 ounces of eggnog and 1 1/2 ounces bourbon into
a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake, then strain while
pouring into a glass. Garnish with a light touch of freshly
grated nutmeg.
—Patrice
Brault and Oliver Greenlaw, Five
———
SHADES
OF GREY
Makes
1 drink
1 ½
ounces bourbon
½
ounce Aperol
¼
ounce spiced cherry syrup
½
ounce lemon juice
2 ½
ounces hot water
Combine
all ingredients except water in a shaker; shake without ice.
Add hot water and pour into preheated glass. Garnish with a
pinch of Earl Grey tea and a lemon twist.
—Gabriel
Lowe, Locanda
SPICED
CHERRY SYRUP
Note:
Makes a huge batch. Feel free to divide the recipe as needed
1
pound garnet cherries
1
quart honey
12
ounces brandy
2
tablespoons cloves
2
tablespoons cinnamon
Crush
half the cherries, combine all ingredients and let rest for
2-4 weeks. Strain and bottle.
———
SOUTHPAW’S
TUGBOAT EGG NOG
Makes
1 drink
Note:
Any simple syrup will work, but Southpaw’s spiced mixture
is explained in step 1.
1
ounce simple syrup
1 ½
ounces bourbon, whiskey or scotch
½
ounce spiced rum, such as Sailor Jerry
¾
ounce amaretto (or any nut, coffee or chocolate liquor)
1 egg
1
ounce whole milk
A
coffee bean
1. To
make Southpaw simple syrup, mix equal parts cane sugar and
boiling water; stir until sugar dissolves. Add baking spices
such as cinnamon, star anise, cloves, allspice and orange
peel in small, equal proportions to the mixture. Bring to a
boil, remove from heat and let cool completely; strain out
solids.
2.
Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker, adjusting the
amount of simple syrup to the sweetness of the spirits used.
This recipe is built for a 100 proof whiskey and a drier
spiced rum. If your spirits are sweeter, decrease the simple
syrup to ¾ ounce.
3. Dry
shake (without ice) vigorously for 10-15 seconds. Take care
to secure the shaker with both hands, as the mixture will
want to escape as pressure builds.
4. Add
ice and shake vigorously for another 10-15 seconds.
5.
Double strain using a Hawthorne and a mesh strainer into a
glass with a 9- to 10-ounce capacity. Grate coffee bean on
top.
—Edward
Calhoun, Southpaw