pancakes by Leah Eskin resemble cinnamon buns, though
faster and flatter. Pecan butter carves in a swirl.
Cream cheese glaze drifts across the top. They go well
with cold toes, warm sweater and a gallon or two of
comes with winter the way the receipt comes with groceries.
Routine. Except in Baltimore. There, snow comes with winter
the way Godzilla comes with New York. Unexpected.
Terrifying. Disastrous for traffic.
the thought of snow can send the city into a frenzy. A
recent morning, a sunny 43 degrees, was met with alarm:
"Snowflakes possible. Exercise extreme caution."
caution involves crusting the streets with salt. Rushing to
the store for milk. And canceling school.
nothing less welcome than a salt-crusted, milk-drenched,
no-snow snow day. The city comes to a standstill, due to a
surfeit of salt, milk and children.
bears little resemblance to the actual snow day, when
children slide through the powdered-sugar chill, then stomp
inside for pancakes.
pancakes resemble cinnamon buns, though faster and flatter.
Pecan butter carves in a swirl. Cream cheese glaze drifts
across the top. They go well with cold toes, warm sweater
and a gallon or two of surplus milk.
4 minutes per batch
8 4-inch pancakes
cup pecans, toasted
cup dark brown sugar
teaspoon baking soda
pinch fine salt
tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened
ounces cream cheese, softened
cup confectioners’ sugar
1 to 2
tablespoons unsalted butter
tablespoon granulated sugar
teaspoon baking powder
teaspoon baking soda
teaspoon fine salt
oil, for cooking
To make swirl, toss nuts, brown sugar, cinnamon, soda and
salt in the food processor. Grind fine. Stir in melted
butter. Scrape this paste into a small ziptop bag.
To make glaze, beat together butter, cream cheese,
confectioners’ sugar and vanilla. Thin with a little milk.
Scrape into a small ziptop bag.
To make pancake batter, settle butter in a large bowl. Zap
to melt. Whisk in, in order: egg, buttermilk and milk. Sift
in flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Whisk
briefly. Let rest 10 minutes.
Set a nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Slick with just
a little oil. Scoop on batter, using a 1/3-cup measure.
Nudge each pancake into a 4-inch circle. Snip a corner off
the swirl bag. Squeeze on a spiral of the nutty paste.
As pancakes cook, trace over the swirl with a toothpick or
knife-tip; this will help the swirl sink into the batter.
Cook until the center of each pancake is speckled with
popping bubbles, about 3 minutes. Flip and cook until the
other side is browned, 1 minute. Keep warm in a 200-degree
oven while crisping remaining cakes, adding oil as needed.
Wipe out the skillet with an oiled paper towel between
Stack up two cakes, swirl side up, on each of 4 plates. Snip
a corner off the glaze bag. Drizzle with glaze. Dig in.