A
new apple season is here, offering a crisp, sweet edge to
fall meals plus the promise of lots of pie — and
pie-inspired dishes.
What
makes apples and apple pie so all-American?
"It
brings people together," said Ken Haedrich, author of
"Apple Pie: 100 Delicious and Decidedly Different
Recipes for America’s Favorite Pie." "It’s the
closest thing we have, food-wise, to a universal symbol of
goodness and contentment.
"It
manages to do this with unabashed honesty and not an ounce
of pretense. It’s an edible reflection of America’s best
character traits."
On
Apple Hill near Placerville, Calif., a bountiful apple
supply is ready for the picking.
"Right
now, we’ve got the early varieties: Gala, Red Delicious
and Golden Delicious," said Scott Larsen of Larsen
Apple Barn in Camino, Calif. "We’re starting to see
the Jonathans and Braeburns, then it will be one after
another."
With
20 varieties in cultivation, the Larsen family has grown
apples on its Sierra foothill ranch since the 1870s, making
it the longest continually family-run operation on Apple
Hill.
"We
still have one tree — a Rhode Island Green — that was
here when we started," Larsen said. "It’s huge
and still growing strong."
Love
of apples — and apple pie — seem eternal. The sweet
scent of baking apples, mixed with cinnamon and a dash of
nutmeg, automatically brings back memories.
"It
reminds me of my mom and dad, who are gone now,"
Haedrich said. "I grew up watching them make apple pies
together, and it’s probably my fondest childhood
memory."
In
honor of 2011 as the "Year of the Pie," Haedrich’s
"Apple Pie" was re-released this month — just in
time for the new apple crop.
Haedrich
loves all sorts of apple pies, particularly those with a
brown sugar crumb topping.
For
pies, he prefers Winesap apples.
"It’s
hard to find but worth looking for in an area where they’re
grown. It’s the perfect blend of sweet, tart and juicy,
with wonderfully complex flavor. Among the more common
varieties, I like Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, Fuji and
Jonathan."
"My
best advice: If you find an apple that makes a great pie,
stick with it," he said, "but don’t be afraid to
experiment."
The
flavor of apple pie inspires variations such as apple-pie
cookies, apple-pie salad and apple-pie soup.
Baked
in a pie plate, an apple-pie cake looks, smells and tastes
like its namesake. An apple stack cake piles up pie-like
apple butter filling (using dried apples) between fluffy
layers.
Bake
shops dot Apple Hill, offering plenty of take-home treats.
Some bakers use Fuji apples because of their sweetness.
Others stick to tart Granny Smith. Pink Lady and Honeycrisp
varieties have their fans.
"We
use Jonathans," said Alyssa Larsen, who manages the
Larsen Apple Barn bake shop. "They hold their
crispness. They’re really flavorful and don’t get mushy.
They’re a good apple to cook with."
Her
bake shop makes about 30 kinds of pastries, breads and other
goodies, including several pies.
"We
make sour cream berry apple pie and French apple," she
said. "What we’re known for is our cream cheese apple
pie — it’s delicious."
Apple
Hill’s crop is just beginning to roll in. Despite weather
complications, the plentiful harvest will continue well into
November.
"Normally,
we would be a lot farther along," Scott Larsen said.
"Now is a good time to come up and visit."
———
OLD-FASHIONED
STACK CAKE WITH APPALACHIAN APPLE BUTTER FILLING:
Cook
time: Depends on how big you want your stack. This recipe
makes one 9-inch cake with six stacks. Three stacks were
baked simultaneously for 10 to 12 minutes The filling
(recipe below) takes about an hour. Allow 24 hours for the
cake to chill in the refrigerator.
Serves
8
This
recipe comes from the September-October issue of
"Cooking With Paula Deen." According to the
magazine, stack cakes were traditional in Southern
Appalachia when folks gathered for special occasions.
Tradition says the number of layers in a cake was a measure
of the popularity of the hosting family.
Ingredients:
—1/2
cup all-vegetable shortening
—1/2
cup sugar
—1/2
cup buttermilk
—1/3
cup molasses
—1
egg, slightly beaten
—1
teaspoon vanilla extract
—3
1/2cups all-purpose flour
—1
teaspoon ground ginger
—1/2
teaspoon baking soda
—1/2
teaspoon salt
—1/2
teaspoon ground cinnamon
—Pinch
of nutmeg
—Confectioners’
sugar for dusting
Instructions:
Preheat
oven to 350 degrees. Spray 6 (9-inch) cake pans with
nonstick cooking spray. Line bottoms of pans with parchment
paper, and spray parchment paper with cooking spray.
In a
medium bowl, beat shortening and sugar at medium speed with
a mixer until creamy. Add buttermilk, molasses, egg and
vanilla, beating well.
In a
large bowl, combine flour, ginger, baking soda, salt,
cinnamon and nutmeg. Make a well in center of flour mixture.
Add shortening mixture, stirring just until combined.
On a
lightly floured surface, form dough into a log; cut into six
equal portions. Place one portion in each prepared pan, and
use fingers to lightly pat dough to edges of pans.
Bake
for 10 to 12 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove from
pans and cool completely on wire racks. Cake will have the
consistency of a gingerbread cookie.
Place
one cake layer on a serving plate or cake stand; spread with
about 3/4 cup warm fruit butter filling (recipe below).
Repeat
procedure with remaining layers and fruit butter filling,
stacking each on previous layer. Do not spread fruit butter
filling on top layer. Cover and refrigerate cake for at
least 24 hours. Just before serving, dust with confectioners’
sugar.
———
APPALACHIAN
APPLE BUTTER FILLING:
Ingredients:
—4
cups roughly chopped dried apples
—4/3
cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
—1
teaspoon ground ginger
—1
teaspoon ground cinnamon
—6
cups apple cider (not juice)
Instructions:
In
large saucepan, combine dried fruit and all dry ingredients.
Add enough liquid to cover. Bring to a low boil and cook,
stirring often, for 45 minutes.
Remove
from heat, and let stand for 10 minutes or until cooled
slightly. Transfer to the work bowl of a food processor or
container of a blender; process until smooth. Use while
still warm.
Per
serving: 704 cal.; 8 g pro.; 137 g carb.; 13 g fat (4 sat.,
5 monounsat., 4 polyunsat.); 24 mg chol.; 548 mg sod.; 5 g
fiber; 548 g sugar; 17 percent calories from fat.
———
APPLE
PIE COOKIES:
Prep
time: 30 minutes
Cook
time: 10 minutes per batch
Makes
about 4 dozen
These
are soft cookies with a spicy apple flavor. The caramel
glaze adds a sweet touch.
Note:
To toast walnut pieces, place in a dry nonstick saute pan
over medium heat, stirring frequently, until walnuts are
fragrant, about 10 minutes. Be careful not to burn them.
Cool before chopping.
Ingredients:
—1/2
cup unsalted butter, slightly softened
—1
1/2 cup light brown sugar, packed
—1
egg
—2
cups all-purpose flour
—1
teaspoon baking soda
—1
teaspoon cinnamon
—1/2
teaspoon ground cloves
—1/2
teaspoon ground nutmeg
—1/2
teaspoon salt
—1/4
cup milk
—1
cup grated apple, from 1 large or 2 small peeled, cored
baking apples
—1
cup walnut pieces, toasted and chopped
Caramel
glaze:
—2
tablespoons butter or margarine
—2
tablespoons brown sugar
—3/4
cup confectioners’ sugar
—4
teaspoons milk or half-and-half
Instructions:
Preheat
oven to 350 degrees.
Beat
butter and sugar until fluffy and well blended. Add egg and
blend until fully incorporated.
In a
separate bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, cinnamon,
cloves, nutmeg and salt. Add half the mixture to butter
mixture, stirring until incorporated, and then add remainder
of flour mixture.
Add
milk, then gently stir in, using a spatula or wooden spoon,
the grated apple and chopped nuts. Drop by rounded teaspoons
onto a parchment-paper-covered cookie sheet.
Bake
10 minutes or until cookies are golden brown. Let cool on
rack for a few minutes, then slide the paper, with cookies
still on it, from pan to rack and let cookies finish cooling
before removing from paper. (An offset spatula works well
for this.)
To
make caramel glaze: Combine brown sugar and butter in a
small pan. Stir and bring to boil over medium heat. Simmer
for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and add the confectioners’
sugar and half the milk, stirring before adding the rest of
the milk, 1 teaspoon at a time.
Drizzle
over cooled cookies using a fork. Add a little more milk if
glaze becomes too thick.
Per
cookie: 97 cal.; 1 g pro.; 14 g carb.; 4 g fat (2 sat., 1
monounsat., 1 polyunsat.); 10 mg chol.; 55 mg sod.; 0 g
fiber; 10 g sugar; 38 percent calories from fat.
———
APPLE
PIE SALAD:
Prep
time: 30 minutes
Cook
time: 30 minutes for the streusel
Serves
4
This
salad features a brown-butter vinaigrette and a pumpkin seed
streusel. Adapted from a recipe from Ginger’s Kitchen, a
blog at www.food52.com.
Ingredients:
Streusel:
—1/4
cup all-purpose flour
—1/4
cup raw pumpkin seeds
—1/3
cup rolled oats
—1
heaping tablespoon brown sugar
—1/2
teaspoon kosher salt
—3
tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
Vinaigrette:
—4
tablespoons unsalted butter
—1
small shallot, minced
—Juice
of half a lemon (about 2 tablespoons)
—Few
pinches finely chopped fresh marjoram or fresh thyme
—Kosher
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Salad:
—1
head red leaf lettuce, washed and torn into bite- size
pieces
—1
sweet-tart apple, cored and sliced thin
—2
ounces fresh chevre
Instructions:
For
the pumpkin seed streusel: Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Combine the flour, pumpkin seeds, oats, brown sugar, salt
and 3 tablespoons of butter (cut into small pieces) in a
small bowl. Use your fingers to blend the ingredients, until
you’re left with large streusel-y crumbles.
Spread
the streusel on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet and
bake for 20-30 minutes, or until lightly browned and crisp.
Cool slightly.
Make
the brown butter vinaigrette: Melt the remaining 4
tablespoons of butter in a small pan over medium-low heat.
Watch the butter carefully — when the foaming has subsided
and the butter has started to brown, add the minced shallot
and soften for one minute. Remove from heat, and transfer to
a small bowl. Whisk in the lemon juice, a sprinkling of
fresh marjoram or thyme, and season to taste with salt and
pepper.
To
assemble the salad: Toss the lettuce, sliced apple and
chevre with a few tablespoons of the brown butter
vinaigrette. Add dressing as needed until leaves are nicely
coated. Sprinkle liberally with the pumpkin seed streusel.
Per
serving: 394 cal.; 9 g pro.; 26 g carb.; 29 g fat (16 sat.,
7 monounsat., 2 polyunsat., 4 other); 60 mg chol.; 318 mg
sod.; 3 g fiber; 9 g sugar; 65 percent calories from fat
———
APPLE
PIE SOUP:
Prep
time: 30 minutes, plus chill time
Cook
time: 6 hours in slow cooker
Serves
6 to 8
This
is a spiced dessert soup that is best served cold, in
chilled bowls.
Ingredients:
—1
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
—1
teaspoon ground cloves
—1
teaspoon allspice
—1
teaspoon ground nutmeg
—3
cups water
—3
cups apple cider
—4
large Granny Smith (or other tart apples), peeled, cored and
sliced
—2/3
cup raisins
—2
tablespoons fresh lemon juice
—4
tablespoons honey
—2
tablespoons brandy, optional
—1
cup vanilla yogurt
—Apple
slices or chopped nuts, for garnish, optional
Instructions:
Combine
the spices, water, cider, apple slices and raisins in a slow
cooker. Cover and cook on low 6 hours or until apples are
quite soft.
Puree
the soup using an immersion blender or, if using a regular
blender, a partial batch at a time, until all the apple
solids and most of the raisins are pureed.
Stir
in the lemon juice, honey and, if using, the brandy.
Chill
several hours. Just before serving, whisk in the vanilla
yogurt. Serve in chilled bowls, garnishing with apple slices
or chopped nuts, if desired.
Per
serving based on 8 servings: 194 cal.; 2 g pro.; 47 g carb.;
trace fat; 2 mg chol.; 32 mg sod.; 2 g fiber; 39 g sugar; 3
percent calories from fat.