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Autumn
weekends seem to be made for sleeping late, followed
by a long, leisurely breakfast in bed, with
Sourdough Egg Strata.
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Between the crisp, cool air
and shortened days, autumn weekends seem to be made for
sleeping late, followed by long, leisurely breakfasts that
fill your home with the aromas of brewed coffee, fresh baked
sweet breads and sizzling sausages. Sadly, the reality is
that most weekend breakfasts turn into harried, short-order
affairs of bacon and eggs — or Pop-Tarts.
That's when we should take a
cue from bed and breakfast inns. They are, after all, the
masters of leisurely morning meals, says Pamela Lanier, a
family travel expert who turned her B&B expertise into a
new cookbook, "Cinnamon Mornings and Savory
Nights" (Lanier Publications/Random House, $19.95, 160
pages), featuring recipes from inns across North America.
The hallmark of breakfast at
an inn, the Petaluma resident says, is that it's something
out of the ordinary: "It's not just eggs and toast. The
dish has other elements to it — whether it's stuffed
French toast or a veggie omelet — that make it
cuisine."
Filled with recipes for baked
apple pancakes, coffee cakes, and at least nine kinds of
French toast, each more decadent than the last, Lanier's
book practically exudes the heady aromas of autumn — crisp
mornings, a crackling fire, cinnamon and sage.
"Cinnamon is a magical
ingredient. It goes in so many dishes and wakes the whole
thing up," says Lanier.
Put a cinnamon-laced coffee
cake in the oven in the morning, and even the sleepiest of
sleepyheads will find his way into the kitchen in fairly
short order. Add some herb-flecked country sausage to the
mix — sage has a natural affinity for pork, which is why
it's so often used in breakfast sausage — and the result
is breakfast nirvana.
There's a reason we're drawn
to cinnamon and sage in cooler weather, beyond their
delectable fragrances. Aromatherapists and herbalists say
these plants have warming qualities. Practitioners of
traditional folk medicine use them to prevent and remedy
colds. And even some over the counter cold medicines today
contain the chemical compounds found in sage and cinnamon.
More to the point, cinnamon
and sage taste marvelous and they pair beautifully with
apples, pears, pumpkins and mushrooms — the seasonal foods
that give the morning meal such a cozy autumn feel.
At the Wine Country Inn &
Gardens in St. Helena, Calif., it takes the form of a
layered cheese strata, filled with cheddar cheese and
mushrooms. At New Hampshire's Greenfield Inn, that
translates into a homely but delicious version of do-ahead
French toast, drenched in caramelized brown sugar and topped
with berries or sauteed apples.
And for Emily Hoche-Mong, who
runs Montara's Goose and Turrets Bed and Breakfast with her
husband Raymond, autumn breakfasts are all about celebrating
the season with local fare: seasonal fruit plates, oatmeal
with cinnamon, brandied cherries with creme Chantilly, and
another local delicacy.
"As it gets to be crab
season in the fall, we do a deviled crab in a cream sauce
served in a pastry bouchee," she says.
Hoche-Mong's menu may sound
complicated, but the key, she says, is preparation.
"It really pays to do
something that you can fix ahead, simple kinds of frittata
and casserole dishes. In the morning you can bring it out
and pop it in the oven. It's lovely for families because the
cook can enjoy the morning," Hoche-Mong says.
With long holiday weekends on
the horizon, that's especially good advice for cooks with a
house full of company the morning after Thanksgiving.
Hoche-Mong says her recipe for sausage biscuit pinwheels
freezes beautifully. Lanier's book also offers several
dishes that can be made a day or two in advance and
refrigerated. And a cinnamon bun recipe that gets its lift
from baking powder, rather than yeast, can be thrown
together at the last minute.
Of course, some might argue
that if you want a delicious, no-fuss autumn breakfast, you
could just go out. But that would mean denying yourself the
ultimate indulgence on a chilly autumn morning: pajamas at
the breakfast table.
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QUICK CINNAMON BUNS
Makes 8-10
1 3/4 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup cold butter, cut into
small pieces
1 egg
1/3 to 1/2 cup milk
Filling
1/4 cup butter, softened
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Glaze
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1 tablespoon butter, melted
1/4 teaspoon maple flavoring
Milk to thin
1. In a food processor, pulse
together the flour, baking powder, sugar and salt. Add cold
butter and pulse until evenly distributed.
2. Whisk together the egg and
1/3 cup milk. Then, with motor running, pour the liquid into
the flour mixture and pulse until just combined. Turn out
onto a floured surface and knead lightly, adding just enough
flour so the dough becomes smooth.
3. Roll the dough into a
12x12 inch square. Spread with softened butter, coat with
brown sugar and sprinkle with cinnamon. Roll dough into a
log and chill for 20 minutes.
4. Preheat oven to 350.
Grease a muffin tin. Cut the cinnamon roll into 8 to 10
slices, about 1/2-inch thick, and place cut-side down in the
muffin tin. Bake 15 to 20 minutes. Let rest a few minutes,
then remove hot muffins from pan.
5. Whisk the powdered sugar
with melted butter, maple and just enough milk to reach a
glaze consistency. Drizzle over warm muffins.
—Adapted from a Sherwood
Forest B&B recipe, Lanierbb.com.
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SOURDOUGH EGG STRATA
Serves 8
12 slices lightly buttered
extra-sourdough bread
4 cups grated cheddar cheese
1/2 medium onion, diced
1 cup thinly sliced mushrooms
10 eggs
4 cups milk
2 heaping tablespoons spicy
mustard
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1. Cut bread into small
cubes. Place half the bread cubes into a large, greased
baking dish. Sprinkle with 2 cups cheese, onion and
mushrooms. Add second layer of bread and top with remaining
cheese.
2. Beat eggs, milk, mustard,
salt and pepper together. Pour this mixture evenly over the
casserole. Cover with foil and refrigerate overnight.
3. Preheat oven to 325. Bake
for approximately 45-50 minutes or until top is golden and
lightly crusted.
—The Wine Country Inn &
Gardens, St. Helena, Calif., published in "Cinnamon
Mornings and Savory Nights" by Pamela Lanier.
Per serving: 790 calories, 32
g total fat, 16 g saturated fat, 335 mg cholesterol, 1800 mg
sodium, 84 g carbohydrates, 5 g fiber, 10 g sugars, 39 g
protein.
—Staff analysis
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SAUSAGE BISCUIT PINWHEELS
Makes 25-30 pinwheels
Rolled, uncut logs can be
refrigerated overnight or frozen.
}-1 pound bulk, well-seasoned
pork sausage
2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
Pinch salt
1/2 cup shortening
3/4 cup buttermilk
1. Sift 11/2 cups flour in a
mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and add baking
powder, soda and salt. Mix well, then cut in shortening. Add
buttermilk and mix well. Add last 1/2 cup of flour and blend
until smooth but not sticky. Wrap dough in waxed paper and
chill for one hour.
2. Roll out dough on a
floured surface to 1/4-inch thickness, roughly an 18x8 inch
rectangle. Spread sausage thinly over the dough. Leave a 1/2
inch along one long edge free of sausage, so it will seal
when rolled. Starting along the long end, roll dough into a
log-shaped cylinder. Chill at least 30 minutes so logs will
cut cleanly.
3. Preheat oven to 450. Cut
logs in 1/2 inch rounds. Place 1/4-inch apart on ungreased
baking sheet. Bake 15 minutes or until sausage is cooked and
dough is golden.
—Emily Hoche-Mong, Goose
and Turrets Bed and Breakfast, Montara, Calif.
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DEVILED CRAB EN BOUCHEE
Serves 10
6 tablespoons plus 2
teaspoons butter, divided
6 tablespoons flour
3 cups milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
Tabasco sauce
8 ounces crabmeat
3 tablespoons each minced
onion, bell pepper, celery
1/4 cup peas or corn,
optional
1/4 teaspoon gumbo file,
optional
10 puff pastry bouchees or
shells
1. Make a white sauce by
melting 6 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Whisk in
flour and continue whisking until mixture starts to bubble.
Cook two minutes longer. Pour in milk and stir until it
starts to thicken. Season with salt and a few drops Tabasco,
to taste. Add crab and keep warm.
2. In a skillet, melt 2
teaspoons butter, add vegetables and saute. When tender,
sprinkle the fil_(c) over them, then add vegetables to the
crab mixture and keep warm.
3. Crisp the bouchee shells
in a 325 degree oven for 5 minutes. Pour mixture into
bouch_(c)es, allowing some to pour over sides. Top with
slivers of bell pepper, parsley, nasturtium or other
colorful garnish and serve.
—Emily Hoche-Mong, Goose
and Turrets Bed and Breakfast, Montara
Per serving: 370 calories, 25
g total fat, 8 g saturated fat, 40 mg cholesterol, 280 mg
sodium, 26 g carbohydrates, 4 g sugars, 11 g protein.
—Staff analysis
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