simple but dressed up, on the order of scrambled eggs
and lobster, Asparagus, and Almond Cake with
strawberry and rhubarb sauce, on bruschetta.
can fry them, shir them, scramble or roll them up. Is there
a more versatile food at your fingertips? It’s that
incredible egg, long on the upswing after its battering on
the health front.
everyday eggs can be so, well, everyday, always pleasant and
comforting, with a predictability and demeanor that might as
well whisper, "It’s time to wake up."
when morning takes on grander importance, for those
celebrations when you want to shout, "Welcome!" to
the day — whether it’s a regular morning or any of the
spring gatherings where guests gather around the table —
the egg can be dressed for company.
the roulade, a curlicue of egg, cheese and vegetables. Made
from a batter that cooks in a jellyroll pan, the eggs become
nearly as firm as a crepe, with a topping of good stuff that’s
added before it’s rolled up. The roulade is a bit
time-consuming, but it’s definitely worth the effort for
the "wow" factor alone. And if it’s the only
dish on the menu that needs some last-minute attention, you
think simple but dressed up, on the order of scrambled eggs
on bruschetta. The key is in the scrambling (don’t do much
of it). Oh, and the cream cheese in the mixture. Add your
choice of topping — shrimp, salmon, a bit of lobster —
and this will look as good as it tastes.
there’s the shirred egg, an everyday kind of dish that’s
turned on its head when cooked with cream and lemon and
anything else you might want to add.
there are too many at the table to fuss with individual
eggs, a crustless quiche — creamy and filled with
vegetables — is a grand way to fill out the menu.
the option, morning couldn’t taste better.
6 to 7
This calls for a 10- by 15-inch jellyroll pan (a baking
sheet with edges). If you have a different size, just shape
the batter on the pan accordingly. I’ve made two of these
at a time, for a group of 12 diners, and I made the batter
individually for each. With two roulades, it’s a little
extra last-minute pressure, but if the rest of the meal is
simple, this is doable. Keep in mind that you’ll need the
full oven if you’re making two of these. Adapted from Sara
ground black pepper
oven to 350 degrees. Line the 10- by 15-inch jellyroll pan
with parchment paper; either butter or spray it with cooking
butter in a medium saucepan. Add the flour and cook,
stirring, for 3 minutes. Increase heat to high, whisk in the
milk and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer
for 5 minutes, stirring often.
flour mixture to a large bowl. Whisk in the egg yolks one at
a time. Season with pepper.
egg whites until soft peaks form. Stir a third of the whites
into yolk mixture and fold in the rest.
the batter onto the parchment paper and smooth it out. Bake
for 15 minutes, or until firm to the touch.
prepare any filling that needs to be warmed. Increase oven
temperature to 375 degrees.
the egg surface with another oiled or buttered piece of
parchment. Invert onto the counter, and peel off the
parchment on the top.
the egg surface with whatever filling is to be used.
Starting on the long side of the egg surface, and using the
parchment on the bottom to help, roll up the egg, jellyroll
fashion. Place the roulade back on the jellyroll pan, with
parchment underneath, and return it to the oven. Bake until
any cheese in the filling has melted, about 10 minutes. To
serve, cut into ½-inch slices.
filling must be prepared and hot (except for cheese) before
it is placed on the cooked egg surface. Make sure any
moisture in the vegetables is gone; heat in a saute pan to
tomatoes or roasted red peppers and grated Cheddar cheese
sauteed mushrooms and Gruyere cheese
chopped spinach (make sure it’s thoroughly dry) and
of prosciutto and any grated cheese
beans and diced roasted red peppers
ham and grated Cheddar cheese
salmon (lox), whipped cream cheese (so it’s easy to
spread), chives or capers
and crumbled bacon or sausage
cheese or fresh, minced herbs
WITH EGGS AND LOBSTER
Bruschetta (broo-SKEH-tah) is a traditional toasted bread
topped with something tasty. If you cut the bread on the
diagonal, you will get more surface. You can toast the bread
an hour or so in advance, but the eggs and lobster need to
be cooked right before serving. Each 5-ounce lobster tail
will provide 4 ounces of meat. There are many alternatives
to lobster (see below). Boursin is a creamy soft cheese with
the texture of cream cheese, and it comes flavored with
herbs. It’s a tasty alternative to cream cheese. For large
soft curds of eggs, keep your stirring to a minimum. Adapted
from Bar La Grassa in Minneapolis.
baguette, cut in 16 (½-inch) slices
garlic clove, peeled
more (5 ounces each) lobster tails (defrosted, if frozen)
eggs, beaten until yolks and whites are well-combined
ounces cream cheese, cut into small cubes (or Boursin
cheese, see Note)
salt and freshly cracked pepper
bread in oven or in toaster. Rub one side of each slice with
garlic (if you don’t like garlic, omit this). Butter and
the lobster: Do this before you start the eggs so there isn’t
too much going on at the same time. To remove meat from
shell, use kitchen shears to make two cuts along the
underside of tail (the softer side) and break away the
shell. Once the meat is out of shell (before or after it is
cooked), remove the black vein that runs along the tail
(pull it out or make a cut along the meat, as you would to
devein shrimp, and pull the vein out).
of options for cooking lobster:
meat from shell and saute whole in 2 tablespoons butter,
basting it often, for about 5 to 8 minutes, until cooked
through, then chop or slice for the eggs, or ...
uncooked meat from shell and chop into chunks and saute in 2
tablespoons butter before adding to the eggs, or ...
meat in the shell for about 3 minutes in water to which some
white wine, carrot, celery, onion, chile flakes, fennel
seed, mustard seed, peppercorns, bay leaf, thyme, kosher
salt and lemon and oranges have been added. (Bring the water
to a simmer before adding the tail.)
prepare eggs: In each of two nonstick pans (or one large
pan), melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add eggs
and turn heat to medium-low. For the largest curds, cook
eggs with little stirring, instead pushing cooked part aside
with a spatula and allowing uncooked eggs to move into
place. When almost done, add cream cheese and stir. Remove
from heat. (Eggs will continue to cook.)
serve: On each plate, overlap two slices of toasted bread.
Divide eggs and place on toast. Top with lobster and
sprinkle with chives, a little salt and pepper. Drizzle a
bit of truffle oil over eggs, if using.
(instead of lobster):
salmon, topped with fresh dill instead of chives.
crabmeat (not the fake stuff, please!).
or medium-size cooked shrimp.
Zest is the grated colored rind of citrus fruit. This recipe
can easily be increased. Ramekins are individual baking
dishes, about 3 to 4 inches in diameter. From "The
Breakfast Book," by Marion Cunningham.
for the ramekins
tablespoons heavy cream, divided
teaspoon lemon zest (see Note)
tablespoons grated Gouda cheese
and pepper to taste
teaspoons minced herbs (dried fines herbs or fresh parsley,
oregano, tarragon, marjoram or thyme)
oven to 325 degrees. Butter 2 ramekins well and pour 1
tablespoon cream in each. Sprinkle ½ teaspoon lemon zest
and 1½ tablespoons cheese over the cream in each ramekin.
Salt and pepper to taste.
1 egg into a cup and carefully pour it into a ramekin (this
is to assure that the egg yolk doesn’t break or have a
spot on it; if it does, use another egg); repeat with
remaining egg into second ramekin. Pour the remaining
tablespoons of cream over the eggs. Scatter herbs over the
top. Bake for 12 to 16 minutes (about 15 minutes for the
white to be cooked, but the yolk will still be soft and a
lemon zest to the top of egg before it’s cooked.
salsa or Asian chile sauce over eggs when they come out of
Place a paper-thin slice of prosciutto in each ramekin (cut
to assure it fits the dish without overhanging) and bake for
10 minutes. Continue with recipe, first warming cream before
adding it to ramekin. Add egg and seasoning.
(or prosciutto) and mushrooms: Finely chop ham, mushrooms
and green onions. Toss with a little brie and place mixture
in ramekins. Top with egg and additional cheese over egg and
Spread 1 tablespoon chopped cooked spinach on bottom of each
ramekin. Top with egg and 1 tablespoon freshly grated
AND ONION QUICHE
10 to 12
Need an easy egg dish? This quiche fits the bill. It does
not have a crust. If you prefer one, roll out two prepared
pie crusts and bake according to directions. Then add the
egg mixture and bake as directed below. The more finely
shredded the cheese is, the more it will melt into the eggs.
Substitute other vegetables as you prefer; chopped fresh
asparagus is particularly nice (be sure to cook until almost
tender in advance of adding to eggs). From "Come One,
Come All: Easy Entertaining With Seasonal Menus," by
Lee Svitak Dean.
6 to 8
ounces mushrooms, sliced
medium onion, sliced (¾ cup)
tablespoons butter, plus more to grease pan
cups half-and-half or milk
ounces (1 cup) finely shredded Gruyere or white cheddar
tablespoons chopped chives, plus more for garnish, optional
oven to 350 degrees.
mushrooms and onions in a saucepan with butter until soft.
Set aside. (If preparing in advance, refrigerate mixture
until ready to use.)
eggs into large bowl; whisk until egg whites and yolks are
thoroughly blended. Add half-and-half or milk, cheese, salt,
pepper and chives; whisk thoroughly. Add mushroom mixture
butter, lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch pan (glass or ceramic
will look nicer than metal for serving) or two 9-inch pie
pans. Pour egg mixture into pan(s). Bake until golden, about
20 to 25 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature, with
additional chives sprinkled on top for garnish.
Crabcakes replace Canadian bacon in this classic dish, and
there’s no need for hollandaise sauce. From Wolfgang Puck
in "The Macy’s Culinary Council Thanksgiving Holiday
Cookbook." He notes that cooking the eggs sunny-side-up
instead of poaching them is quicker and less fussy. Not
enough time to make crabcakes? Great ones are available at
Costco (the Handy brand). Panko breadcrumbs are bigger and
lighter than the traditional crumb, which can be
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
mixed diced red, yellow and green bell peppers
diced red onions
teaspoon minced jalapeno chile or red pepper flakes
teaspoons chopped fresh chives
teaspoons chopped fresh dill
teaspoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
from 2 fresh thyme sprigs, chopped
teaspoon cayenne pepper
extra large egg, lightly beaten
panko breadcrumbs (see Note), divided
ground almonds, divided
pounds fresh lump crabmeat, picked over for cartilage and
tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more as needed
English muffins, split
extra large eggs
chives for garnish
the crabcakes: You will need to make the crab mixture and
shape the cakes at least 1 hour before you are ready to cook
them. In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over
medium-high heat. Add the bell peppers and onions and saute,
stirring frequently, until tender, 7 to 9 minutes. Using a
slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl and let cool.
the pepper mixture is cooling, return the skillet to
medium-high heat, add the cream and jalapeno and simmer
briskly, stirring frequently, until the cream is reduced by
half, about 5 minutes. Add to the pepper mixture and let
cool for about 15 minutes.
the chives, dill, parsley, thyme, salt and cayenne to the
cooled mixture and stir well. Stir in the egg and half each
of the breadcrumbs and almonds. Gently fold in the crabmeat;
the mixture should be lumpy.
plate, stir together the remaining breadcrumbs and almonds.
Have ready a baking sheet.
clean hands, divide the crab mixture into 12 equal portions,
then shape each portion into a cake the diameter of an
English muffin. As you form each cake, gently press both
sides of it into the crumb-almond mixture to coat well, then
place on the baking sheet. When all of the cakes are ready,
cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate at
least 1 hour or up to 3 hours.
cook and serve the crabcakes: Preheat the oven to 200
degrees. Have ready a large baking dish. In a large skillet,
combine 2 tablespoons of the butter and 2 tablespoons
vegetable oil over medium-high heat. When the butter is
melted, add half of the crabcakes and saute, carefully
turning them once with a spatula, until they are golden
brown on both sides and cooked through, about 4 minutes on
each side. Transfer to the baking dish and keep warm in the
oven while you cook the remaining crabcakes the same way,
adding more oil to the pan if needed to prevent sticking.
the crabcakes are almost done cooking, toast the English
muffins and spread them lightly with a little of the
remaining butter. Place 1 or 2 muffin halves, cut side up,
on each individual serving plate, or place them all on 1 or
2 large platters.
cook the eggs and serve: As soon as all of the crabcakes are
cooked and in the oven, wipe out the skillet, return it to
medium-high heat, and melt enough of the remaining butter in
it to coat the bottom evenly when you swirl the pan.
Carefully crack just enough eggs into the pan to fit without
crowding and sprinkle them with salt. Fry until the whites
are set and the yolks are cooked to your or your guests’
liking, spooning a little of the butter from the pan over
the whites and yolks to help them set, 3 to 5 minutes.
the same number of crabcakes to muffin halves as eggs you
cooked, and top each crabcake with a fried egg. Repeat with
the remaining butter, eggs, and crabcakes. Garnish the eggs
with the chives and serve right away.