doesn't get much simpler than eggs and potatoes, as
demonstrated by this homey corned beef hash. Styled by
doesn’t get much simpler than eggs and potatoes. The
combination works for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Think
scrambled eggs with potatoes, potato salad laced with
hard-cooked eggs, crunchy fried rice topped with a soft egg.
It’s perfect fare for casual entertaining, great for
overnight guests during the overloaded holiday season.
I think the
contrasting textures explain a lot of the combo’s appeal.
Also, both ingredients exhibit a fantastic affinity for
picking up other flavors — butter, oil, bacon, hot sauce,
combination, I seek it out whenever possible. On a recent
trip to Kalamazoo, Mich., I thrilled to see corned beef hash
on the breakfast menu at Anna’s House. The skillet full of
crispy little potatoes and shreds of tender, rich corned
beef, topped with a fried egg, proved a far cry from any
canned corned beef hash of old.
The secret to
this rejuvenated breakfast staple is allowing the
ingredients to maintain individual textures: crispy
potatoes, soft caramelized onions, toothsome meat chunks and
the melting goodness of soft egg.
about any hash, I prefer to par-cook small potatoes to
shorten the cook time and to retain moisture. The microwave
cooks the potatoes quickly and makes cleanup easy. For
crispness, pull out the cast-iron pan and heat it thoroughly
before adding some fat to lubricate everything and promote
browning. Start with a sweet onion to caramelize it, then
add the par-cooked potatoes in a single, uncrowded layer —
leaving space around the potatoes promotes the browning.
potatoes and onions are perfectly golden, you can go in a
million directions: Serve them as is with salt and freshly
cracked pepper. Crush them lightly with a potato masher, and
add cooked meats or vegetables to make a kind of hash to top
with eggs. Add beaten eggs, and scramble together with diced
avocado for a vegetarian taco filling. Or, sprinkle the
potatoes over a salad of frisee and kale with a warm
skillet that follows is delicious topped with softly poached
eggs that add yolky richness. Poached eggs can be tricky, so
I practice making them when guests are not around. Part of
their appeal is that they can be poached in advance and
simply rewarmed in a dish of hot water. No stress, however,
since fried eggs with a runny center taste great here too.
corned beef, I simmer a small roast in water with spices on
the stovetop until it is fall-apart tender. Use the slow
cooker, if desired, so you can run errands while the meat
cooks. Know that a 3-pound roast will yield just over 1
pound of cooked, lean meat shreds.
for time, I purchase a chunk of corned beef from the deli
counter and then pull it into shreds at home. Alternatives
to the corned beef could include cooked crumbled breakfast
sausages or Mexican chorizo. Grilled or roasted eggplant or
browned cubes of tofu stand in for meat on many occasions. I
also like to use chunks of grilled salmon, or whitefish or
lump crab; just be cautious not to overcook the fish on the
skillet of goodness at any time of the day. For breakfast, I
accompany the skillet with fresh-squeezed juice and slices
of ripe melon. When serving this for dinner, I add a bowl of
sliced ripe tomatoes and pass crusty bread.
SKILLET CORNED BEEF HASH AND EGGS
Cook: 3 hours
Serves: 6 to
are great here too; eliminate the 1 tablespoon oil used to
fry the eggs. See the note below.
corned beef brisket, about 3 pounds
3 or 4 bay
each: whole black peppercorns, coriander seed (or dill seed)
celery seed or leafy tops from several celery ribs
1 1/2 pounds
(small to medium) red, yellow and blue potatoes, scrubbed
safflower, sunflower or expeller-pressed canola oil for high
1 large or 2
medium (10 ounces total) sweet onion(s), halved, cut into
freshly ground black pepper
each dried leaf thyme and basil
6 to 8 eggs
2 cups baby
arugula leaves, optional
chopped fresh chives or green onion tops
red pepper sauce, to taste
1. Put corned
beef into a deep, large saucepan. Add cold water to cover
meat by 1 inch. Add bay leaves, peppercorns, coriander seed
and celery seed. Heat to a boil; reduce heat to very low,
and cover. Simmer, turning meat occasionally, until a fork
inserted comes out easily, about 3 hours. Add more water as
need to keep meat submerged. Let cool in the liquid.
Transfer meat to container and add about 1 cup of the
cooking liquid. Refrigerate, covered, up to several days. (I
save the remaining flavorful cooking water for simmering
vegetables such as carrots, cabbage and turnips for another
cut potatoes crosswise in half. Cut each half into 1/2-inch
wide wedges. Place in a large microwave-safe bowl, and add 1
cup water. Cover tightly. Microwave on high (100 percent
power), stirring once, until fork-tender, about 6 minutes.
beef from the cooking liquid, and pull enough of the meat
into large bite-size shreds to yield about 4 cups.
4. Heat oven
to 375 degrees on convection or 400 degrees conventional.
Heat 2 large, ovenproof skillets (preferably cast-iron) over
medium heat until hot. To each pan, add 1 1/2 tablespoon of
the oil and half of the onion. Cook and stir until onion is
golden, about 4 minutes. Stir half of the drained potatoes
into each pan. Cook and stir until golden, about 4 minutes.
Season each pan with pepper, thyme and basil.
5. Stir half
the shredded corned beef into each pan. Cook and stir to
heat meat through, about 2 minutes. Stir 1/2 cup of the
reserved meat cooking liquid into each pan. Set in the oven
to heat through, about 10 minutes.
heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until a drop
of water sizzles on contact. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil
and crack in the eggs. Reduce heat to low, cover the
skillet, and cook 3 minutes. Uncover and continue cooking
until yolks are slightly set, about 1 minute more. Gently
release the eggs from the skillet with a spatula.
7. Remove the
corned beef mixture from the oven. Sprinkle with the arugula,
if using, then top with the fried eggs. Sprinkle with
chives. Serve right away. Pass the hot sauce.
eggs: Heat 2 inches of water in a shallow medium saucepan to
a simmer. Add 1 tablespoon cider vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon
salt. Reduce heat so the water simmers with very gentle
bubbles. Crack an egg into a small cup, and then gently slip
the egg into the simmering water; let simmer 30 seconds,
then add another egg. Repeat to poach up to 4 eggs at a time
in the pan. Eggs are done when they’ve turned opaque white
and are softly firm, about 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted
spoon to serve right away or set in a bowl of tepid water if
working in advance. Eggs can hang out in the water for an
hour or so. The heat of the skillet meat should be enough to
warm them gently, or you can slip them into a bowl of very
hot water for about 30 seconds.
information per serving: 643 calories, 44 g fat, 13g
saturated fat, 353 mg cholesterol, 20 g carbohydrates, 2 g
sugar, 40 g protein, 1,738 mg sodium, 2 g fiber
potatoes alongside simple omelets or fried eggs. Or, beat 6
eggs with a tablespoon each of cream and water and scramble
into the crispy potatoes until softly set. Serve sprinkled
1 1/4 pounds
(20 ounces) small red or yellow potatoes, scrubbed
bacon fat, butter or olive oil, or a combination
red or sweet onion, diced
minced fresh thyme (or 1/4 teaspoon dried leaf thyme)
ground black pepper
potatoes crosswise in half. Cut each half into 1/2-inch wide
wedges. Place in a large microwave-safe bowl, and add 3/4
cup water. Cover tightly. Microwave on high (100 percent
power), stirring once, until fork-tender, about 5 minutes.
2. Heat a
large nonstick skillet over medium heat until hot. Add bacon
fat or one of its substitutes and the onion to the pan. Cook
and stir until onion is deeply golden, about 5 minutes.
3. Stir in
the drained potatoes. Cook and stir until all sides of the
potatoes are golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in thyme. Season
with salt and pepper. Serve while hot and crispy.
information per serving: 224 calories, 10 g fat, 4g
saturated fat, 9 mg cholesterol, 30 g carbohydrates, 3 g
sugar, 4 g protein, 33 mg sodium, 3 g fiber