| Red
pepper paste (gochujang) sauce for the Asian- style
Korean wings is featured, March 28, 2013. |
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Southern
fried chicken has long preened in the cultural spotlight,
thanks in part to such notables as chef Edna Lewis, TVs
Paula Deen and one Kentucky colonel named Harland Sanders.
But a new bird is rising out of the East the Far East
that is capturing some of that shine: fried chicken,
Asian-style.
From
Myanmar (Burma) in the southeast to Korea in the north, Asia
is home to many variations on the fried chicken theme. All
are golden and crunchy, but the flavorings can change from
country to country.
"Marination
gives extra flavor to the chicken," says Makiko Itoh, a
Tokyo-born food writer and blogger living in Vaison-la-Romaine,
France, as she explains why Asian-style fried chicken is so
popular. Marinating also ensures the chicken stays moist and
juicy, she says.
Marja
Vongerichten makes a similar point in her cookbook,
"The Kimchi Chronicles."
"Unlike
American fried chicken, which tends toward the salty end of
the spectrum, Korean fried chicken is sweet and sticky but
no less addictive," writes the New York-based host of
"Kimchi Chronicles," a public television show.
"Now, Korean-style chicken (KFC anyone?), full of great
flavor and tremendous crunch, has been exported back to the
States, where its become all the rage."
Hard
numbers are hard to come by, but there appears to be a
growing hunger for, at the very least, Asian-style chicken
wings, reports Darren Tristano, executive vice president for
Technomic Inc., a Chicago-based food industry research and
consulting company.
"Wings
are becoming a canvas for innovation and flavor," he
says, noting that the range of flavors keys in to the
consumer appetite for customization.
Such
customization is easy to do at home. You can use various
marinades, coatings and dipping sauces to create your own
flavors and textures. Proper frying is the same whatever the
cuisine. All you need beyond that is a sturdy pot filled
with hot oil, some tongs or chopsticks for retrieving the
various bits of fried bird, and a rack or paper-lined plate
to blot off any extra grease.
Making
the chicken:
To
prepare any of the ethnic variations here, marinade the
chicken as directed; coat where applicable; then fry
following the directions below. Serve with the sauce as
described.
Pour 1
to 2 inches oil in a deep skillet, deep fryer or
flat-bottomed wok. Use an oil with a high smoking
temperature, like peanut, safflower or corn.
Heat
to 350 degrees. Use a deep-fat thermometer to check
temperature. Alternatively, drop a small piece of bread or
green onion into the oil. If the item bubbles vigorously,
the oil is ready.
Dont
crowd the pan; fry the chicken in batches to keep the oil
temperature from dropping too low.
BURMESE
Adapted
from "Burma: Rivers of Flavor," by Naomi Duguid.
Look for tamarind pulp in Asian markets.
Chicken:
One
3-pound chicken (or 2 to 2 1/2 pounds breasts, legs, wings),
chopped into small pieces
Marinade:
Rub 2
teaspoons salt and 1/4 teaspoon turmeric into chicken. Pour
on 3 to 4 tablespoons fish sauce. Cover, marinate,
refrigerated, 2-3 hours.
Sauce:
Place
1/4 cup tamarind pulp in a small bowl. Add 1/2 cup hot
water; soak, 10 minutes. Mash the tamarind with a fork to
separate seeds and fibers from the pulp. Press the tamarind
through the sieve over a bowl, using the back of a spoon to
extract as much liquid as possible from the pulp. Pound 2
minced cloves garlic and 3 minced green cayenne chilies into
a rough paste with a pinch of salt in a mortar (or process
to a coarse paste in a food processor). Stir the paste into
the tamarind liquid; add 1/2 teaspoon each sugar and salt.
Best when served freshly made.
JAPANESE
Adapted
from the "Just Hungry" blog (justhungry.com) of
Makiko Itoh.
Chicken:
10
ounces boneless thighs
Marinade:
Mince
one 1 1/2-inch piece ginger; mix with 3 tablespoons soy
sauce and 1 tablespoon sake. Marinate chicken in sauce, 30
minutes.
Coating:
Dredge
chicken pieces in about 1/2 cup potato starch (katakuriko)
or cornstarch.
Sauce:
Combine
in a small skillet: 1 tablespoon each rice vinegar, soy
sauce and finely chopped green onion. Add 1 teaspoon grated
ginger, a pinch of sugar and a few drops sesame oil. Heat on
medium heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Serve
sauce with lemon wedges on the side. If serving the chicken
later at room temperature, make the sauce and then put the
cooked chicken pieces in the pan and toss to coat each with
the hot sauce. Let chicken and sauce cool completely.
KOREAN
This
recipe was developed by chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten for
"The Kimchi Chronicles," a cookbook written by his
wife, Marja. Gochujang is also sold as chili bean paste in
Asian markets.
Chicken:
2
pounds wings
Marinade:
Whisk in a large bowl: 2 tablespoons each fresh lime juice
and soy sauce; 1 tablespoon each sugar, fish sauce, toasted
sesame oil, gochujang (red pepper paste); 3 finely minced
garlic cloves, 1 1/2-inch piece ginger, minced. Add chicken
wings, marinate covered for 20 minutes at room temperature.
Coating:
Dredge
wings in flour; tap off excess.
Sauce:
Whisk
in a large bowl: 3 tablespoons each gochujang and gochugaru
(Korean red pepper powder); 2 tablespoons rice vinegar and
honey; 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil. Add crispy cooked
wings to bowl with sauce and toss to coat. Pile wings onto a
platter; season with salt.
MALAYSIAN
Adapted
from "Flavors of Malaysia," by Susheela Raghavan.
Sambal oelek is a chili sauce. It is available at Asian
markets.
Chicken:
1
pound thighs, breasts, drumsticks, chopped into 2 to 2
1/2-inch pieces (leave drumsticks whole)
Marinade:
Puree
1/4 cup sliced shallots or onions; 1 teaspoon sliced fresh
ginger; 3/4 to 1 teaspoon sambal oelek and 1/4 cup water.
Stir into the paste 1 tablespoon ground coriander; 1
teaspoon each ground cumin, ground fennel seeds and ground
mustard; 1/2 teaspoon each black pepper, turmeric powder,
sugar and salt; 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon and ground
paprika. Rub chicken with marinade, refrigerate 3 to 5 hours
or overnight.
Sauce:
Combine
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce; 1 teaspoon soy sauce; 1/2
teaspoon each, fresh lime juice, 1/2 teaspoon sugar (or 1
tablespoon honey); 1/4 teaspoon sambal oelek and 1/4
teaspoon salt.
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