and Kale Gratin.
undeniably cold these days, but winter has a warm side to it
assumes there’s nothing available come winter, and those
people cannot be more wrong, says Michael Anthony, author of
the cookbook "V is for Vegetables" (Little, Brown
and Co.; October 2015; $40) and executive chef of the
restaurants Gramercy Tavern and Untitled in New York City.
"It’s charming to eat in winter," he says.
spring, summer and fall get all the glory for their seasonal
produce, winter is overlooked. But the fact is that the list
of winter vegetables is long, the flavors intriguing and the
are the hardy greens such as kale, mustard and collard, and
root vegetables such as carrots, potatoes, sweet potatoes,
leeks, celery roots, radishes and beets.
it is the season of the pedigree cauliflower, an adaptive
vegetable that can speak in different accents, be it mashed,
baked, roasted, sauteed, fried or steamed. The florets’
silky notes can provide a rich backdrop to lobster or
truffles while their prosaic side is highlighted in a curry
when cooked with turmeric, ginger and chili powder.
summer squashes are vegetables to reckon with, so are winter
squashes. Beneath the hard rinds, squashes such as the
Hubbard, butternut and Japanese kabocha are soft, sweet and
delicious with just a simple touch. Slice and saute a
Hubbard until lightly golden brown and then marinate the
slices in mint, red wine vinegar and sugar. Or puree a
kabocha or butternut with a little water and a few drops of
cream, and then season it with salt, a grinding of black
pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Or roast a spaghetti squash,
scrape out the strands and add some olive oil, lemon juice,
crushed garlic, red pepper flakes, salt and pepper.
there are the knobby sunchoke, aka Jerusalem artichoke (a
misnomer, as it has nothing to do with Jerusalem or
artichoke), oddly shaped kohlrabi (a love child of the
cabbage and turnip) and rough-looking rutabaga (a larger and
sweeter cousin of the turnip). They might not win any beauty
contest by themselves, but when they get cleaned up and have
their stems cut and rough skins peeled, they not only get a
facelift but also are tasty when simply roasted or form the
base of a stew or gratin.
says vegetables vanish from our daily lexicon in winter, and
they shouldn’t. "People want to have an immediate
dinner and the hardy vegetables require more effort to make
them. They need a little bit of investment of your
time," he says.
and turnips are among the vegetables that get the short end
of the stick, he says. They can be converted into wondrous
dishes simply by being roasted, pureed or made into
fritters. In his book, Anthony writes that parsnips are
"as easy to peel as a carrot" and can be made into
addictive chips by slicing them paper-thin and frying the
slices in grapeseed or peanut oil. He says they come out
amazingly light and crispy and require just a sprinkle of
the chef lived in Japan, he fell in love with turnips,
especially the small round white hakurei, the long
purple-topped hinona and the red-tinted akakabura, he says
in his A-Z format book, which is thoughtful, evocative and
friendly to follow. These days he delights in making a
turnip and winter squash stew with chicken that is flavored
with ginger, soy sauce, sweet rice wine and dashi, a
Japanese stock made with seaweed. He also serves mustard
greens with glazed hakurei turnips that are cooked in a
is inexpensive, delicious and nutritious but gets no
respect," he says. He avoids boiling cabbage and
instead prefers to highlight its fresh and crunchy
qualities. Anthony makes a coleslaw with thinly cut cabbage,
carrots and onion and dresses it with a tangy mayonnaise
made with egg yolks, Dijon mustard and red wine vinegar.
not just the cabbage that deserves more respect but so do
the other rustic-chic winter vegetables, as after all they
are the truest voices of the ground they are grown in. So
pay heed to the comforts of winter before spring pushes them
to the side.
thought cocoa and cauliflower are strange bedfellows, think
again. The cauliflower not only gets a lovely brown hue from
the cocoa powder but also acquires an earthy aroma and deep
taste. I adapted the original recipe and added some chili
powder because the chocolate-oil mixture begged for a little
cup olive oil, plus 3 tablespoons for drizzling
tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
teaspoons chili powder
teaspoons kosher salt
cauliflower, leaves removed, stem trimmed flush with head
oven to 300 degrees.
oil, cocoa powder, chili powder and salt in a large mixing
bowl. Transfer as much of the mixture as possible into a
container, but do not clean the bowl.
cauliflower, floret side down, in the bowl. Drizzle 2
tablespoons of oil down into the interior of the vegetable,
making sure the stems and florets are greased.
drizzle half of the cocoa-oil mixture down the stalk to
season the interior of the cauliflower. Turn the cauliflower
over and drizzle the rest of the cocoa-oil mixture on top.
Distribute and rub the entire head with the mixture. Finally
drizzle and rub the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil on top of
ready to cook, set the cauliflower, floret side up, in a
cast-iron skillet. Bake the cauliflower until the stem is
tender in the middle, about 1 1/2 hours.
Adapted from "The Laws of Cooking" by Justin
& KALE GRATIN
author and chef Michael Anthony says he uses the
"classic rich combination of cream, butter and garlic
to draw out the seductive qualities of soft parsnips and
kale." And I say amen to that.
tablespoons butter, divided
cloves garlic, minced, divided
cup shallots, minced, divided
and pepper, to taste
pound parsnips, peeled and very thinly sliced
pound tender kale (center ribs removed), blanched for 10
minutes and patted dry
oven to 350 degrees. Butter a medium baking dish with a
tablespoon of butter, then scatter half of the garlic on the
bottom and set aside.
remaining tablespoon butter in a small saucepan over
medium-low heat. Add shallots and remaining garlic; stir
until softened, about 3 minutes. Add cream and nutmeg, and a
generous amount of salt and pepper, and bring to a simmer.
half the parsnips in buttered dish, working in a circle and
overlapping the edges. Be sure to cover the bottom well
because it will cook down to form one thick layer. Sprinkle
with half the cheese, then spoon on half the cream.
remaining parsnips, cheese and cream mixture. Then add the
kale on the top layer, nestling it in between the slices of
dish on a baking sheet (to catch any drips) and bake until
parsnips are tender and gratin is bubbling and browned on
top, about an hour.
"V is for Vegetables" by Michael Anthony (Little,
Brown and Co.; October 2015; $40)
with dill, the carrots smell delightful and get an added
flavor punch from the ginger, cumin and coriander. The
odoriferous asafoetida powder, which is extracted from a
fennel-like plant, is not an absolute must, but a pinch of
it does elevate the taste.
tablespoons vegetable oil
teaspoon cumin seeds
teaspoon asafoetida powder (optional)
piece ginger, peeled, finely chopped
1 to 2
green chilies, finely chopped
pound carrots, peeled, cut crosswise in 1/2-inch slices
teaspoon ground coriander
teaspoon turmeric powder
cup fresh dill, chopped
oil in a wok over medium heat. When hot, add cumin seeds. A
few seconds later, add asafoetida; then a few seconds later,
add ginger and chilies.
ginger starts to brown, add carrots, coriander and turmeric.
Stir for 2 minutes.
dill and salt; stir. Cover, lower heat and simmer for 1 to 2
minutes or until carrots are just done. With slotted spoon,
take carrots out the pan, leaving as much oil behind as
"A Taste of India" by Madhur Jaffrey
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES & BRUSSELS SPROUT LEAVES
artichoke flesh discolors when exposed to air, and so after
peeling each one, place it in a bowl of water. Pat the
chokes dry before cutting them and adding them to a skillet
large Jerusalem artichokes
tablespoons olive oil
clove garlic, smashed
small sprig rosemary
Brussels sprout leaves
oven to 375 degrees.
knobs off Jerusalem artichokes, aka sunchokes. Cook the
smaller cut-off pieces in the same pan with the large pieces
and remove them when they’re soft.
tablespoon of the oil in an ovenproof skillet over
medium-high heat. Add the large sunchokes, salt and pepper,
and cook until brown all over, about 6 minutes. Then roast
them in the oven until tender, about 30 minutes, flipping
them after 10 minutes for even browning.
skillet from oven and put it on a burner over medium heat.
Add garlic, rosemary and butter. Using a spoon, baste the
sunchokes until they are lightly glazed and light brown all
to a cutting board and thickly slice crosswise.
tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high
heat. Add the Brussels sprout leaves, salt and pepper, and
cook for about a minute, stirring constantly. Add shallots;
cook for1 minute, stirring.
sunchokes and cook until the leaves are brown in places and
crisp-tender, about another minute. Season with lemon juice
and stir in the remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil.
"V is for Vegetables" by Michael Anthony (Little,
Brown and Co.; October 2015; $40)
& ROOT VEGETABLE SOUP
you have a cold or not, this chicken soup is a must in
winter. In short, it is a bowl of comfort. Instead of
bone-in chicken thighs, I went with boneless, and it worked
tablespoons canola oil
cloves garlic, crushed
large yellow onion, finely chopped
tomato, finely chopped
cups chicken stock
chicken thighs, skinless and boneless
sprigs fresh cilantro, plus more to garnish
pound waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
carrots, peeled and sliced 1-inch thick
large green plantain, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
ounces spaghetti, broken in half
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add garlic, onion and
tomato and cook until soft, about 8 minutes. Add stock,
chicken and cilantro and cook for 20 minutes. Add potatoes,
carrots and plantain and cook until chicken and vegetables
are tender, about 25 minutes.
tongs, transfer chicken to a cutting board and let cool
slightly. Shred chicken into bite-size pieces. Return
chicken to pan. Stir in spaghetti and cook until al dente,
about 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle soup
into bowls, garnish with cilantro, and serve.
6 to 8.
Adapted from "Saveur Soups and Stews" by editors