crunchy and delicious out of hand. Not to mention crazy
nutritious. But autumn’s favorite fruit is even more
spectacular when it plays nice with others in dishes —
both sweet and savory. Think sliced, then tossed into a
salad with fresh greens and salty cheddar cheese, roasted
until super-sweet, and pureed into a velvety soup or fried
into a doughnut dusted just so with sugar and cinnamon.
fall, you also can’t beat a good apple pie.
course, you could always make one yourself, along with any
number of apple dishes. This is shaping up to be a pretty
good apple season, says Carolyn McQuiston of Dawson’s
Orchard in Enon Valley, Lawrence County, Pa. It is, however,
running a little early, the fourth-generation farmer says,
because of a wet June, and hot and dry summer.
Ginger Golds make the perfect pie-baking apple, the biggest
seller remains Honeycrisp, a crisp modern variety developed
by the University of Minnesota for cold-climate growers.
Sweet and juicy, "it’s just a great eating
experience," says McQuiston.
Johnson, whose husband, Steven, is a sixth-generation apple
farmer at Apple Castle in New Wilmington, Lawrence County,
also is seeing great demand for Honeycrisp, along with
old-fashioned favorites Jonagold and McIntosh.
really enjoy hard, sweet apples," she says, adding that
her customers seem to be eating a lot more apples than
baking with them.
GREENS WITH APPLES, PECANS AND CHEDDAR
ounces assorted chicories, such as radicchio, Belgian
endive, watercress and spinach
tablespoon finely chopped herbs or fresh flat-leaf parsley
cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
tablespoons sherry vinegar, plus more for serving
salt and freshly ground black pepper
ounces aged cheddar, crumbled (about 1 cup)
cup fried or toasted pecans
green apple, cored, quartered and shaved on a mandoline
apple, cored, quartered and shaved on a mandoline
greens and spin dry. Refrigerate in an airtight container,
with a damp paper tower over them to absorb any lingering
moisture, until ready to use or up to overnight.
greens in a large bowl and scatter the shallot and herb mix
over them. Drizzle oil and vinegar over salad, and season
with salt and pepper. Add cheddar and pecans, and toss.
salad among 4 plates and arrange apples over the salad,
covering it. Drizzle a little oil and vinegar over the
apples, and season with salt and pepper.
"Battersby: Extraordinary Food from an Ordinary
Kitchen" by Joseph Ogrodnek, Walter Stern and Andrew
Friedman (Grand Central Life & Style, Oct. 2015, $35)
AND APPLE SOUP
Smith apples and candied nuts add a touch of sweetness to
this velvety pumpkin soup.
pounds sugar pumpkins, seeded and halved
for greasing pumpkin
tablespoons unsalted butter
small white onion, chopped
Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and diced
clove garlic, minced
tablespoon firmly packed light brown sugar
teaspoon freshly ground cinnamon
teaspoon white pepper
teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
teaspoon cayenne pepper
low-sodium vegetable broth
unfiltered apple cider
cup heavy whipping cream
walnuts, for garnish (I used pecans)
Granny Smith apple, cored and finely diced, for garnish
the oven to 400 degrees. Oil the inside of the pumpkin
halves, and season with salt. Place cut-side down on a
baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes, or until the pumpkin
meat is fork-tender. Remove from the oven. When it’s cool
enough to handle, use a spoon to scoop out the roasted
pumpkin. Set aside.
large pot, melt butter over moderate heat. Once butter
begins to brown, add the onion and sauté for 5 minutes. Add
apple, garlic, brown sugar, cinnamon, white pepper, nutmeg
and cayenne, and cook for 3 minutes. Add the roasted
pumpkin, broth and cider, stirring to incorporate, then
season with salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low,
and simmer for 20 minutes. Stir in the cream and let cool
for 10 minutes.
soup to a blender (or use an immersion blender in the pot)
and puree until smooth. If needed, add additional water or
broth to reach the desired consistency. Return the mixture
to the saucepan. Serve warm, and garnish with freshly diced
apple and candied walnuts.
Food & Wine
IN TOMATO-APPLE SAUCE
know. Pairing apples with tomatoes sounds so weird. But when
restaurateur and Grand Dame of Italian Cooking Lidia
Bastianich assures you something is good, you tend to
believe her. Somehow this pasta sauce — full of texture
and flavor — works. Even better, it’s so easy, featuring
standard pantry ingredients and minimal cooking.
is a tart-sweet sauce, so don’t skimp on the
Parmigiano-Reggiano. Its saltiness balances out the pucker.
can (3 cups) Italian plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
large stalks celery, cut in 1/4-inch dice (about 1 cup)
medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
teaspoon kosher salt
pound tart, firm apples, such as Granny Smith
freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus
more for passing
the canned tomatoes into the food processor or blender, and
purée until smooth.
tablespoons of the olive oil into the skillet, set it over
medium-heat, and strew the chopped celery and onion in the
pan. Cook and stir the vegetables for about 5 minutes, until
they wilt and start to caramelize.
in puréed tomatoes. Season with salt, and heat to a
bubbling simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes
or so. As the tomatoes perk, peel and core the apples, and
remove the seeds. Shred them, using the coarse holes of a
shredder or grater.
tomatoes have cooked about 5 minutes, stir apples into the
sauce. Heat again to a simmer, and cook the sauce,
uncovered, for about 15 minutes, stirring now and then,
until it has reduced and thickened and the apple shreds are
cooked and tender.
bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the
spaghetti, and cook it’s until barely al dente. Drain
spaghetti for a moment, and drop it into the warm sauce.
(Reheat, if necessary.)
pasta with sauce for a minute or two, until all the strands
are coated and perfectly al dente. Turn off heat. Sprinkle
grated cheese over the pasta, and toss well. Drizzle the
remaining olive oil, toss once again, and heap the pasta in
warm bowls. Serve immediately, passing more cheese at the
"Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy" by Lidia
Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali (Knopf,
about pumpkin spice. The perfect fall flavor marries apples
with cinnamon, personified in these easy fried doughnuts.
sure to check, and re-check, the temperature of the oil —
any higher than 375 degrees and the dough will burn before
it cooks all the way through. And don’t be afraid to have
a heavy hand with the sugar topping. It’ll help sweeten
your coffee when dunking.
cups sifted all-purpose flour
teaspoons baking powder
teaspoon baking soda
teaspoon, plus 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon, divided
tablespoons butter, softened
cup apple juice or cider
medium apple, peeled, cored and finely chopped
vegetable oil for frying
large bowl, combine flour, baking powder and soda, and 1
teaspoon cinnamon. Make a well in the center.
small bowl, cream sugar and butter until fluffy. Beat in
egg. Add apple juice, milk and vanilla; beat until combined.
Pour into well of dry ingredients and stir until smooth.
Stir apple into the batter. Cover and chill dough for 1
dough on floured board, knead lightly and roll out to
approximately ?-inch thick. Cut with a floured 2 1/2-inch
doughnut cutter (I used two concentric biscuit cutters).
Reroll scraps and cut a few more.
at least 2 inches of oil into a large wok or skillet and
heat to 375 degrees. Without crowding, fry doughnuts for 1
to 2 minutes on each side, until golden brown. Repeat until
all doughnuts have been fried, reheating oil to temperature
as necessary. Drain on paper towels.
desired, sift 1 cup of powdered sugar with remaining
tablespoon ground cinnamon and sprinkle over warm doughnuts.
"The Apple Cookbook: 125 Freshly Picked Recipes"
by Olwen Woodier (Storey, 2015, $14.95)