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We
are a nation up to our eyeballs in buttercream
icing, ganache, fondant and the cakes that support
them. Layer cakes. Cupcakes. Bundt cakes. It is a
passionate love affair. Fantastically decorated
sweets fill bakery shelves, TV screens and
cookbooks. To put it simply: We've got a serious
case of cake love, and we've got it bad.
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We are a
nation up to our eyeballs in buttercream icing, ganache,
fondant and the cakes that support them.
Layer cakes.
Cupcakes. Bundt cakes. It is a passionate love affair.
Fantastically decorated sweets fill bakery shelves, TV
screens and cookbooks.
To put it
simply: We've got a serious case of cake love, and we've got
it bad.
"We are
a cake-centric society," said Rose Levy Beranbaum,
America's reigning queen of cakes. "We always have
been, and it has only gotten more so. I think it's because
of the 'Iron Chef' syndrome."
The symptoms?
Constant viewing of sweet-TV.
Shows such as
TLC's "Cake Boss," with Buddy Valastro's family at
Carlo's bakery in Hoboken, N.J. Or maybe Food Network's
"Ace of Cakes," with Duff Goldman and his team in
Baltimore.
Not enough
for you? Click on TLC's "Ultimate Cake Off" or We
TV's "Amazing Wedding Cakes." And if you can wait
until later this year, Bravo will add "Top Chef: Just
Desserts" to the mix.
"People
don't know how to do it themselves, so they really love
seeing somebody else doing it," said Beranbaum, author
of "Rose's Heavenly Cakes" and "The Cake
Bible," in its 44th printing.
"Cake
Boss" Valastro would agree. "You know, it's kind
of like watching that show on the Discovery Channel,"
he said. "I get sucked into that because it's, 'Ahh,
how do they make Reese's Pieces' And you see it."
Such sweet-TV
fuels our appetite for cakes. So do hundreds of bakeries and
cupcakeries. The final swirl atop this multilayered
phenomenon? Dozens of cake cookbooks, from
"Cakewalk," by New York sugar artist Margaret
Braun on through "The Whimsical Bakehouse," by
mother-daughter bakers Kaye and Liv Hansen from Westchester,
N.Y. Coming in April: "Simply Spectacular Cakes,"
by London-based Peggy Porschen, who's done sweets for Elton
John and Madonna as well as the centerpiece cake for Stella
McCartney's wedding.
How over the
top can cakes get? "The cake I'm most proud of I did in
the shape of a NASCAR car," Valastro said. "And it
was actual size. That was a monumental task. It took like
three days."
Cake "is
the fanciest, most visual aspect of food," Beranbaum
said. "When food starts getting too fussy, you don't
want to eat it. But when it comes to cake, that's different.
It's a symbol of celebration." Something you might do
for loved ones.
One other
reason to bake a cake? "Decorate with your kids at
home," said Valastro, a father of three. "Hey
listen, if it comes out lousy, you can still eat it. And the
kids'll never forget that time."
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RESOURCES
From
decorating tools to classes to how-to online videos, here
are a few helpful Web sites:
"Ace of
Cakes": Food Network's Duff Goldman's team creates a
cake "Viking ship," wedding cakes, offering
inspiration. foodnetwork .com/ace-of-cakes/index.html
"Cake
Boss": Videos of old-school piping (TLC-TV's Buddy
Valastro goes swag crazy) and decorative roses, etc.
tlc.discovery.com/tv/ cake-boss/cake-boss.html
Rose Levy
Beranbaum: Cake cookbook whiz's blog plus instructional
videos on lacquer glaze and more. realbakingwithrose.com
Wilton
Industries: The "Decorating 101" page is
especially instructive. Want to mix mauve, plum or lavender
tinted frosting? Check out the color chart. wilton.com
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CREAM CHEESE
POUND CAKE
Prep: 40
minutes
Bake: 50
minutes
Makes: 16
servings
This is
adapted from "Cake Boss" Buddy Valastro's basic
pound cake. The cake can be decorated as you like or served
simply with citrus-glazed fruit.
1 cup
unsalted butter, room temperature
6 ounces
cream cheese, room temperature
2 cups sugar
2 1/3 cups
cake flour, sifted
2 teaspoons
vanilla
6 large eggs,
separated
1/4 teaspoon
cream of tartar
Citrus-glazed
fruit, see recipe, optional
Whipped
cream, optional
1. Heat oven
to 350 degrees. Cream butter and cream cheese with an
electric mixer until fluffy. Beat in 1 3/4 cups of the sugar
until smooth; beat in flour and vanilla on low speed until
batter has a dry, crumbly appearance. Add yolks, one at a
time, beating each until incorporated. Clean beaters.
2. Beat egg
whites with cream of tartar and remaining 1/4 cup of the
sugar in a separate bowl until stiff peaks form. Gently fold
1/3 of the egg whites into batter; repeat twice. Pour batter
into buttered and floured 10-inch Bundt pan. Bake until
tester inserted in center of cake comes out clean, 50-60
minutes. Cool cake in pan 15 minutes. Invert onto cake rack;
cool completely. Decorate as desired, or serve with
citrus-glazed fruit and whipped cream.
Citrus-glazed
fruit: Mix 1 cup each sugar and water plus grated zest of
one lemon in a small saucepan; cook over low heat until
sugar dissolves and mixture thickens slightly. Cut enough
fresh fruit (strawberries, blueberries, kiwi fruit, for
example) to make about 3 cups. Place fruit in bowl; pour
glaze over fruit.
Nutrition
information
Per serving:
329 calories, 46 percent of calories from fat, 17 g fat, 10
g saturated fat, 122 mg cholesterol, 40 g carbohydrates, 5 g
protein, 62 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
———
SWEETHEART OF
A CAKE
Remember when
a fancy cake was decorated with pastel-tinted royal icing
roses, a piped edge and a carefully written missive that
began with "Happy ..."?
No more. So
much sweet TV and its sugar wizards, cake artists and those
working in the Technicolor-bright, sugar-and-butter world of
decorated cakes have changed that.
It doesn't
mean there's no room in the kitchen for the rest of us who
want to try our hand at sugar art.
And why not?
Especially if you agree with Duff Goldman who writes in
"Ace of Cakes," a book about his Charm City Cakes
and Food Network show, that "cake is a physical
manifestation of joy."
To get you
started, some decorating tips from the pros:
"Get
inspired from other people's work." — Buddy Valastro,
TLC's "Cake Boss"
"When
designing a cake, simplicity is always best. One idea or
element is always better than trying to make two or three
ideas work on one cake." — Goldman, in "Ace of
Cakes"
Buy a
turntable. "Anybody who wants to be serious about cake
decorating needs a turntable." — Valastro
"Make
sure you let the cake cool — even put it in a freezer, so
it chills a little bit. It's easier for you to handle. A
half-hour in the freezer will give it a little
stability." — Valastro.
"The
trick to keeping crumbs out of your icing is to glide your
spatula over the icing, never allowing the spatula to touch
the cake surface or to pull already spread icing from the
cake surface." — From "Cake Decorating 101"
at wilton.com
"Many
factors can affect your icing consistency, such as humidity,
temperature, ingredients and equipment. You may need to try
using different icing consistencies when decorating."
— From "Cake Decorating 101" at wilton.com
"Dip
hands in ice water if, while piping, it (the icing) gets too
soft." — Rose Levy Beranbaum, author of "Rose's
Heavenly Cakes"
"If you
can't make the sides (of a cake) smooth, encrust it with
nuts." — Beranbaum
"There's
nothing wrong with buying pre-made royal icing
flowers." — Beranbaum
———
ROSE RED
VELVET CAKE WITH WHITE CHOCOLATE FROSTING
Prep: 30
minutes Bake: 25-35 minutes Makes: 10 servings
Adapted from
"Rose's Heavenly Cakes," by Rose Levy Beranbaum.
For a more distinct chocolate flavor and a much darker red,
you can use up to 1/4 cup cocoa, sifted before measuring,
but you must decrease the flour by the same amount.
1/4 cup plus
2 tablespoons egg whites, room temperature
2 tablespoons
red food color
11/2
teaspoons vanilla
2 cups sifted
cake (or 1 3/4 cups all-purpose) flour
1 cup
superfine sugar
3 teaspoons
baking powder
1 teaspoon
unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon
salt
1/4 cup
canola or safflower oil, room temperature
4 tablespoons
unsalted butter
1/2 cup
buttermilk
White
chocolate frosting, see recipe
1. Grease
bottom of one 9-inch heart-shaped or round cake pan; top
with parchment paper cut to fit. Grease paper; dust with
flour. Set oven rack in the lower third of the oven; heat
the oven to 350 degrees. Whisk egg whites, food color and
vanilla in a medium bowl until lightly combined. Whisk
together the flour, sugar, baking powder, cocoa and salt in
a medium bowl.
2. Mix oil
and butter in bowl with electric mixer on medium speed, 1
minute. Add flour mixture and buttermilk; mix on low until
dry ingredients are moistened. Raise speed to medium; beat 1
1/2 minutes. Lower speed to medium-low; beat in egg mixture
in two parts, 30 seconds each. Pour batter into the prepared
pan; smooth the surface evenly.
3. Bake until
cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean and cake
springs back when pressed lightly in the center, 25-35
minutes. Let cake cool in the pan on a wire rack 10 minutes.
Carefully invert the cake onto a greased wire rack. Reinvert
the cake so that the top side is up. Cool completely. Frost
top with white chocolate frosting.
White
chocolate frosting: Microwave 3 ounces white chocolate
(containing cocoa butter) in a bowl on high heat, stirring
often, until almost completely melted, about 30 seconds.
Remove from microwave; stir until fully melted. Cool until
no longer warm to the touch but still fluid. Beat 4 ounces
softened cream cheese, 2 tablespoons softened unsalted
butter and 1/2 tablespoon creme fraiche or sour cream until
smooth. Add the white chocolate; beat until smooth. Beat in
1/8 teaspoon almond extract until smooth.
NUTRITION
INFORMATION
Per serving:
380 calories, 46 percent of calories from fat, 20 g fat, 9 g
saturated fat, 33 mg cholesterol, 47 g carbohydrates, 5 g
protein, 299 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
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