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When
cooking for a dinner party that includes
vegetarians, forget the bland and go for the wow
factor with a dish like corn risotto with a summer
"succotash" of sweet corn, green beans,
tomatoes and basil.
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What
is it about cooking for vegetarians that stumps so many
carnivores? Even those who make a sublime split pea soup or
divine dal curry suddenly feel compelled to reach for the
safety of Boca burgers.
Truth
is, vegetarians and omnivores can dine happily together, on
the same glorious feast.
When
planning a dinner party that includes both vegetarians and
meat-eaters, best to banish any lingering whiffs of 1970s
vegetarian restaurants, with their Birkenstock-wearing
servers and mushy beige food, and focus on the wow factor.
And today, that couldn’t be easier.
Consider
aromatic, curried vegetables nestled against the black
grains of forbidden rice, an exotic grain favored, according
to legend, by the emperors of the Qing Dynasty. Or a hearty
stew of toothsome farro, flavorful lentils and vivid orange
sweet potatoes or butternut squash that gets a tangy zing
from lemon zest and Greek yogurt.
In
short, create a menu that offers nothing but gustatory
temptation.
"I
don’t come to the table as a vegetarian," says Marie
Simmons, the Richmond, Calif., food writer behind
"Fresh and Fast Vegetarian" (Houghton Mifflin
Harcourt, 256 pages, $17.95). "I come to the table as
someone who loves big, bold, robust flavors — curry,
paprika, orange zest, lots of herbs — and I believe in
abbondanza."
That’s
the Italian word for joyful abundance. Simmons’ philosophy
is that if you heap your table with beautiful, aromatic
food, even die-hard steak lovers will be too delighted by
the bounty to notice the absence of rib-eyes.
The
issue isn’t that traditional meat-eaters are
anti-vegetarian, Simmons says.
"It’s
a fear of tofu," she says. "And they’re afraid
they’re not going to get enough to eat." That’s not
a problem at Simmons’s home, where vegetarian entrees are
combined with sumptuous side dishes. When she’s
entertaining a mixed crowd, those sides include a crisp
green salad, goat cheese-topped crostini and roasted Idaho
or sweet potatoes, lush with melting cheese.
"Confirmed
omnivores," she says, "are big potatoes
people."
What
Napa Valley food writer Janet Fletcher looks for in a
vegetarian entree are the exact same things she seeks in any
entree — flavor, texture, heartiness and visual appeal.
And, of course, how it pairs with wine.
For
heaven’s sake, says the James Beard Award-winning
journalist, "you don’t need to announce you’re
serving a meatless meal."
Just
think creatively.
"Dinner
does not have to be animal protein, a starch and a
vegetable," says Fletcher, the author of "Eating
Local" (Andrews McMeel, 306 pages, $35).
"Americans are not protein-deficient."
According
to national statistics, American are notorious for their
protein overconsumption, something we might blame on Dr.
Atkins. And in any case, meat, tofu and beans do not hold
the monopoly on protein. Whole grains and many vegetables
brim with it, too. So Fletcher often uses polenta, farro,
bulgur or rice as a foundation, then adds in the vegetables
and cheese, either as a flavoring element or afterward, in
lieu of dessert.
One of
Fletcher’s favorite menus includes a salad of roasted
peppers and mozzarella, and a creamy farro risotto with
Jerusalem artichokes and deeply browned, almost meaty
mushrooms.
"It’s
a beautiful dish for red wine," she says.
When
it comes down to it, entertaining is all about making guests
feel welcomed and well-fed, no matter what their dietary
preferences.
"Basically,
my position is: Good food is good food," says Heidi
Swanson, a San Francisco food blogger who parlayed her
101Cookbooks.com site into a new cookbook, "Super
Natural Every Day" (Ten Speed Press, 250 pages, $23).
"I
don’t spend much time thinking about what someone
typically eats," she says. "Instead, I just try to
make sure whatever I’m cooking is fresh, flavorful,
interesting and substantial."
That
said, when you’re serving a crowd, Swanson suggests
including a do-it-yourself element.
"If
it’s a soup night, I’ll put out a spread of
corresponding toppings," she says. "The same works
for taco fillings, waffle toppings, pizza nights, etc. That
allows each person to customize things to their
liking."
Have
an elegant dinner party coming up? Fletcher suggests trying
her party-perfect, grilled eggplant cannelloni, partly
because the dish looks fabulous and tastes even better, but
partly because its richly satisfying ricotta filling can be
tweaked to all tastes. If you really do have a guest who
would sooner die than omit meat from any meal, Fletcher
suggests adding a little diced prosciutto to some of the
filling and baking those cannelloni separately.
Serve
it with an avocado, frisee and fennel salad, with a nice
piece of blue cheese afterward.
It’s
perfect for entertaining, she says, no matter who is at the
table.
———
FARRO-LENTIL
SOUP
Serves
8
2
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
2
large yellow onions, chopped
1 cup
peeled, diced sweet potato or winter squash
Sea
salt
1
tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons Madras curry powder
2/3
cup semi-pearled farro
1 ¼
cups green or black lentils, picked over
6-7
cups vegetable broth or water
1 cup
Greek-style yogurt or creme fraiche
Grated
zest and juice of ½ lemon, or to taste
1.
Heat the oil in a large soup pot over medium-high heat. Stir
in the onions and sweet potato. Add a big pinch of salt and
saute until the onions soften a bit, a couple of minutes.
2. Add
the curry powder; stir until onions and sweet potatoes are
coated and the curry is fragrant, a minute or so.
3. Add
the farro, lentils and 6 cups broth. Bring to a boil, lower
heat, and simmer, covered, for 25 minutes. (If using whole
farro, instead of semi-pearled, increase cooking time to 50
minutes.)
4.
Taste and season with more salt, if needed. Stir together
the yogurt, lemon zest and juice, and ¼ teaspoon salt.
Serve each bowl of soup topped with a dollop of lemon yogurt
and a drizzle of olive oil.
—Heidi
Swanson, "Super Natural Every Day" (Ten Speed
Press, 250 pages, $23)
———
SHORTCUT
CORN RISOTTO WITH SUMMER ‘SUCCOTASH’
Serves
4
3
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup
chopped red onion
1 ½
cups Arborio or other medium-grain white rice
2 ½
cups water
½ cup
dry white wine
Coarse
salt
3 cups
fresh corn kernels from 6 ears (or canned or frozen corn)
1 cup
creamy, mild feta or fresh goat cheese, crumbled
1 cup
diagonally sliced (1/4 inch) green beans
1
garlic clove, grated
2 cups
diced (1/2 inch) tomatoes
¼ cup
loosely packed, torn basil leaves
Freshly
ground black pepper
1.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet until it is
hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion. Add ½ cup onion and
cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until tender, 5
minutes.
2. Add
the rice and stir until coated with oil. Add the water, wine
and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, stirring once. Cook,
covered, over low heat, stirring once or twice, until creamy
and tender, 12-15 minutes.
3.
Stir in 1 cup corn and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Fold
in ½ cup cheese.
4.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large
skillet until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion.
Add the remaining ½ cup onion and cook, stirring, until
tender, 5 minutes. Add the remaining 2 cups corn, green
beans and garlic, and cook, stirring, until the green beans
are crisp-tender, 5 minutes.
5. Add
the tomatoes, basil, a pinch of salt and a generous grinding
of black pepper to the corn mixture.
6.
Spoon the risotto into shallow bowls. Top with the succotash
and sprinkle with the remaining cheese.
—Marie
Simmons, "Fresh and Fast Vegetarian" (Houghton
Mifflin Harcourt, 256 pages, $17.95)
———
COCONUT-VEGETABLE
CURRY WITH CASHEWS
Serves
4-6
Note:
This colorful curry is delicious served with black
Forbidden, Bhutanese red or brown jasmine rice. Feel free to
vary the vegetables with the season.
¼ cup
extra-virgin olive oil
2
teaspoons cumin seeds
2 cups
unpeeled eggplant, diced in ½-inch cubes
15-16
ounce can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
2 cups
½-inch cauliflower florets
1 cup
diced onion
1 cup
diced carrot
1 cup
green beans, cut in ½-inch lengths
2-3
teaspoons minced, seeded jalapeno pepper
1
tablespoon minced, peeled fresh ginger
1
tablespoon Madras curry powder
1
garlic clove, grated
1
teaspoon coarse salt
½
teaspoon turmeric
13.5-ounce
can regular or light coconut milk
½ cup
coarsely chopped, roasted, unsalted cashews
¼ cup
minced fresh cilantro
1.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add
the cumin seeds and cook, stirring, until they are a shade
darker, 2 minutes. Add the eggplant and chickpeas; cook,
stirring, over medium-high heat for 5 minutes.
2. Add
the cauliflower, onion, carrot, green beans, jalapeno,
ginger, curry powder, garlic, salt and turmeric. Cook,
stirring, 5 minutes.
3. Add
the coconut milk and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring
occasionally, over medium heat until the sauce has thickened
and the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.
4.
Spoon the curry into a large bowl or over a platter of rice.
Sprinkle with cashews and cilantro and serve.
—Marie
Simmons, "Fresh and Fast Vegetarian" (Houghton
Mifflin Harcourt, 256 pages, $17.95)
———
GRILLED
EGGPLANT CANNELLONI WITH RICOTTA
Serves
4
Note:
This is a lovely vegetarian entree. But if your omnivorous
guests really can’t survive without any meat, add 3
tablespoons minced prosciutto to half the filling, and bake
separately.
2
large globe eggplants
Kosher
salt
2
tablespoons olive oil
Tomato
sauce:
¼ cup
olive oil
½
yellow onion, minced
2
large cloves garlic, minced
1½
pounds Roma tomatoes, chopped
8-12
fresh basil leaves
1
teaspoon dried oregano
Pinch
hot red pepper flakes
Kosher
salt
Ricotta
filling:
2 cups
whole milk ricotta
1 cup
freshly grated pecorino or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese,
divided
2
tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley
1
large clove garlic, minced
Salt,
freshly ground pepper
1
large egg, lightly beaten
1.
Slice off the eggplants’ green caps, then cut each
eggplant lengthwise into six 1/3-inch thick slices. Discard
the first and last slices, which are mostly skin. Sprinkle
generously on both sides with salt; let stand for 30
minutes.
2.
Preheat a grill to medium, 375 degrees. Pat eggplant dry,
then brush with olive oil on both sides. Place the slices
directly on the hot grill and cook, turning once, until
nicely grill-marked and pliable, 3 minutes per side.
3. For
the tomato sauce, heat ¼ cup olive oil in a large skillet
over moderate heat. Add onion and garlic; saute until the
onion softens and begins to color, 5-10 minutes. Add
tomatoes and cook, stirring often, until they soften and
collapse into a sauce, about 10 minutes, depending on
ripeness.
4.
Puree the mixture or pass it through a food mill. Return the
puree to the skillet over moderate heat. Tear the basil in
half and add it, along with the crumbled oregano, hot pepper
flakes and salt to taste. Simmer gently, stirring
occasionally, until the sauce is thick and tasty.
5. For
the filling, blend the ricotta, ½ cup pecorino, parsley and
garlic. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the
egg.
6.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Choose a shallow baking pan
large enough to hold the eggplant rolls snugly in one layer.
Spread 1/3 cup tomato sauce in the dish.
7.
Spread a generous 2 tablespoons filling on each eggplant
slice. Carefully roll each slice, like a jelly roll, and
place, seam side down, in the baking dish. Top with the
remaining tomato sauce. Sprinkle with the remaining ½ cup
pecorino. Bake until lightly browned and bubbling, about 45
minutes. Cool for 20 minutes before serving.
—Janet
Fletcher and Sur la Table, "Eating Local" (Andrews
McMeel, 306 pages, $35)
———
MEATLESS
MONDAYS
You
may think of "Meatless Mondays" — the
grass-roots movement promoting whole grain, healthful,
vegetarian dining one day a week — as some newfangled
green thing, but its roots stretch back to World War I. Now,
the idea of going meatless one day a week has been revived
by a Johns Hopkins School of Public Health-sponsored
campaign that includes restaurant chefs, glitzy celebrities
and, of course, doctors, who hope to reduce the incidence of
cancer, diabetes, obesity and cardiovascular disease.
Get
more information, as well as recipes and answers to commonly
asked nutritional questions, at www.meatlessmonday.com.
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