If you're not familiar with City Chicken (sometimes called Mock Chicken), you may be surprised to learn it isn't actually chicken. The dish is typically made with pork and veal cubes threaded on wooden skewers. Once skewered, it's breaded, browned on all sides and then baked until fork-tender.

In the doldrums of winter, many of us turn to comfort foods to warm the soul.

A favorite of mine is City Chicken.

If you're not familiar with City Chicken (sometimes called Mock Chicken), you may be surprised to learn it isn't actually chicken. The dish is typically made with pork and veal cubes threaded on wooden skewers. Once skewered, it's breaded, browned on all sides and then baked until fork-tender.

Many sources say this dish came about at a time when chicken was more expensive than pork. It was also thought of as a way to use leftover scraps of meat.

The skewered meat is supposed to resemble a drumstick.

I had City Chicken a lot when I was growing up — my late mother made it well. The breading was nice and crisp, thanks to the Italian bread crumbs she always used, and the meat was moist and tender. Threading the meat on the skewers can be time-consuming, but it's worth the effort.

Some stores sell pre-made City Chicken — usually all pork. I prefer the flavorful combination of pork and veal.

The basics of breading meat (or other food) before frying are to dredge the meat in unseasoned or seasoned flour (I always use seasoned) and shake off the excess.

Then have ready beaten eggs mixed with a little water or milk. Be sure to use one hand for dredging the meat in the flour (dry) mixture and rolling it in the breading. Use the other hand for dipping the meat in the egg mixture. Doing so will keep your finger tips free of clumps of bread crumbs.

Dip the floured meat in the egg, letting the excess drip off, and then roll it in the bread crumbs. The egg mixture is the glue that holds together the crumbs, which can be plain or seasoned bread, panko crumbs, cracker crumbs or even crushed cereal such as Corn Flakes.

Once breaded, let the meat rest for at least 20 minutes before frying to allow the coating to set.

In this City Chicken recipe, the flour step is omitted because the flour is mixed with the bread crumbs. You can bread it whichever way you prefer and season as you like. City Chicken is great with or without the sauce and is just as good the next day.

It also pairs well with other comfort food classics such as mashed potatoes.

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CITY CHICKEN

Serves: 8 / Preparation time: 45 minutes

Total time: 2 1/2 hours (not all active time)

24 wooden skewers about 6 inches long

1 to 1 1/2 pounds lean pork, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 to 1 1/2 pounds lean veal, cut into 1-inch cubes

3 eggs

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon parsley or basil flakes

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1 cup flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 cup Italian-style bread crumbs

1/2 cup canola or vegetable oil

BAKING SAUCE, OPTIONAL

1 can (10 1/2 ounces) condensed cream of mushroom soup

1 cup of milk (any variety)

1 cup water

Alternate the pork and veal cubes on the wooden skewers, leaving enough space at the blunt end to pick up the skewer with your fingers. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine the eggs, salt, onion powder, parsley or basil, garlic powder and pepper. Beat until well mixed. In another shallow dish or pie plate, combine the flour and baking powder.

On a shallow dish or pie plate, place the bread crumbs. Dip the skewers into the egg mixture until thoroughly coated and roll in the flour mixture and then in the bread crumbs. Place on a tray and refrigerate one hour before pan-frying to set the coating.

Heat enough oil, about 1/2 cup, to cover the bottom of a large skillet. Cook the skewered meat over medium heat, turning often, until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes.

Remove and drain on paper towels.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place the skewered meat at the bottom of a large baking or roasting pan. If baking it in the sauce, mix together the mushroom soup, milk and water and pour over the meat.

Cover and bake for about one hour and 15 minutes or until tender. Remove the cover during the last 15 minutes of baking.

Analysis per 3 skewers.

351 calories (40 percent from fat ), 16 grams fat (3 grams sat. fat ), 14 grams carbohydrates, 36 grams protein, 503 mg sodium, 145 mg cholesterol, 1 gram fiber.

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(From the Detroit Free Press Test Kitchen and tested by Susan M. Selasky.)