means grilling. Grilling means hot dogs and hamburgers. Hot
dogs and hamburgers mean mustard and ketchup and maybe
can always go to the store and buy the stuff that comes in a
plastic jar. That way, you get to top your lovingly crafted
hamburgers and hot dogs with plastic-jar stuff.
thatís fine if you like high-fructose corn syrup, tartaric
acid (admittedly, it isnít as bad as it sounds) and
calcium disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid. But why
use the store-bought products when you can make them all
be the first to acknowledge that commercially available
ketchup, mustard and mayonnaise are actually very good. But
the condiments that come out of your kitchen are truly
better. Plus, when you tell everyone that you made them
yourself, you get that special satisfaction that comes when
your friends and family look at you as if you were crazy.
the biggest reason to use homemade condiments is that your
hamburgers, hot dogs and other specialties deserve them.
first set out to make ketchup because, frankly, Iíd never
made it before. My only personal experience with homemade
ketchup comes from repeated viewings of "Meet Me in St.
Louis." Marjorie Main, who plays the family maid, is
making ketchup in a big kettle, and each character in turn
tastes it and pronounces it too sweet, too tart, too spicy
or too bland.
scene always made homemade ketchup seem special to me.
found a recipe in "Americaís Cook Book," which
was published by the New York Herald Tribune Home Institute
and first came out in 1937 (my copy is from 1943). If youíre
going to make homemade ketchup, you might as well go
it did not take as long as I had feared. I had visions of
standing over a stove all day long, stirring and stirring a
kettle. And frequent stirring is, in fact, required ó the
ketchup will burn if you donít ó so I ended up
obsessively stirring mine every 10 to 15 minutes. But the
good news is that an extended cooking time over a low heat,
which is what I assumed it would take, actually turns
ketchup an ugly brown.
keep mine bright and red, I had it bubbling merrily for only
about two hours. And yes, that is longer than it would take
to go to a store and buy a plastic jar, but the store-bought
stuff would not be nearly as flavorful and complex as the
ketchup you make yourself. This stuff wows your mouth.
Picking a number at random, Iíd say it tastes as if it had
57 varieties of flavor all melded and blended together. Itís
up was mustard. I like mustard, so I made two different
kinds, a German-style whole-grain mustard with horseradish
and a classic Dijon.
it wasnít exactly a classic Dijon. According to "The
Mustard Book" by Jan Roberts-Dominguez, French law
mandates that true Dijon mustard must be made with a
specific type of machine that is sold only to commercial
mustard producers. So I made a mustard that is, shall we
requires two days of soaking your mustard seeds and an
additional three or four weeks of the mustard mellowing in
the refrigerator until you get the familiar, smooth taste of
Dijon. But it is definitely worth the wait.
seeds have a sharp taste and can even be harsh. The hottest
are black mustard seeds, followed by the brown variety and
then the most familiar yellow, but even the yellow seed can
be too strong for mild Dijon mustard unless you manage to
temper them. Working with a man whose company produces
mustard, Roberts-Dominguez came up with a clever way to do
cooks them at a low temperature for four hours in a slow
cooker. By the time they were done, most of their innate
spicy heat had dissipated.
other hand, the German-style mustard keeps its sharpness.
Its seeds, too, need to soak for two days (in dark ale, and
how fun is that?), and then it is mixed with other good
things: a bit of sugar, spices and salt.
the ingredient that really defines this mustard is the
horseradish. Horseradish and mustard are a natural
combination, as is evident from a number of horseradish
mustards on the market. Most everything that mustard goes
well with, mustard with horseradish in it goes even better.
finished up with the homemade mayonnaise, and really there
is no reason not to make this at home whenever you want some
mayo. Itís easy, itís fast (you can make it in a few
minutes) and its bright, creamy taste is infinitely better
than anything from the store.
requires just three main ingredients: eggs, oil and magic.
The magic is what binds the drops of oil to the protein in
the egg yolks, somehow (magically!) creating the rich,
smooth sauce we call mayonnaise.
few other ingredients are all you need to give the mayo its
zest and its pep. A bit of salt. A dash of pepper. A dollop
of mustard. A splash of lemon juice.
it. Mix these in with the eggs and the oil, and you get a
condiment that is pure magic.
quarts peeled fresh tomatoes or 5 (28-ounce) cans whole
tomatoes, see note
peppers, seeded and chopped
medium onions, chopped fine
cup granulated sugar
teaspoons celery salt
teaspoons ground mustard
tablespoon whole allspice
tablespoon whole cloves
The better the tomatoes, the better the ketchup will be. Use
fresh tomatoes when they are at their peak, or high-quality
a stockpot or large Dutch oven, cook tomatoes, peppers and
onions together over medium high heat until tender, about 20
to 30 minutes, without adding water. Mash with a potato
masher (this will help the tomatoes break down later). Add
salt, sugar, celery salt, mustard and paprika. Tie allspice,
cloves and cinnamon stick in cheesecloth or place in a spice
infuser or simply place them in a sieve that dips into the
liquid, and add to pot.
Cook at a medium to rapid simmer for 1 hour, stirring
frequently to prevent burning. Long, slow cooking gives an
undesirable dark color. Add vinegar and continue simmering
and stirring until thick, about 1 more hour. Puree in a
blender for a smooth, finished ketchup; otherwise leave
slightly chunky for a rustic style.
Store in clean, sterilized jars with airtight lids (canning
jars, properly sealed, work best) in the refrigerator for 2
to 3 months.
tablespoon) serving: 8 calories; no fat; no saturated fat;
no cholesterol; no protein; 2 g carbohydrate; 1 g sugar; no
fiber; 114 mg sodium; 4 mg calcium.
adapted from "Americaís Cook Book," by the New
York Herald Tribune Home Institute
About 1 3/4 cups
cups brown mustard seeds
cup dry white wine
cloves garlic, chopped
teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
teaspoon ground allspice
teaspoon granulated sugar
teaspoon ground white pepper
teaspoon ground cinnamon
a nonreactive (nonaluminum) pot or jar, combine the mustard
seeds, mustard powder, water, vinegar and wine. Cover and
soak for 48 hours, stirring once per day. Add additional
water, vinegar and wine in the correct proportions if needed
to maintain enough liquid to cover the seeds.
Pour the seeds mixture into a food processor, add garlic and
process until the mixture turns to a creamy mixture flecked
with seeds, about 5 or 6 minutes. Add additional water,
vinegar and wine in the correct proportions if needed to
keep the mustard very creamy during processing.
the mixture to a slow cooker and cook on low heat, covered,
for 3 1/2 to 4 hours. Stir the mixture about 3 times the
first hour (beware of the fumes, which are quite strong),
then whenever you think of it for the remaining time. Do not
allow the mixture to come to a simmer, which will create a
Stir in the Worcestershire sauce, allspice, sugar, salt,
turmeric, white pepper, mace and cinnamon. Run through the
food processor again, and then press through a fine-mesh
sieve. The flavor will become softer and more mellow over
the first 3 to 4 weeks. Mustard may be kept in airtight jars
in the refrigerator for several months.
teaspoon) serving: 20 calories; 1 g fat; no saturated fat;
no cholesterol; 1 g protein; 1 g carbohydrate; no sugar; no
fiber; 64 mg sodium; 8 mg calcium.
from "The Mustard Book," by Jan Roberts-Dominguez
About 2 1/4 cups
yolks, room temperature
whole egg, room temperature
teaspoon Dijon mustard
tablespoon lemon juice
neutral-flavored oil, such as corn or canola
U.S. Department of Agriculture warns against eating raw eggs
unless they have been pasteurized in the shell.
Place the yolks and the egg in a food processor and whir
together for 30 seconds. Add the salt, mustard and lemon
juice and process until blended, another few seconds. With
the blade running, drizzle in the oil as slowly as you can
and in as thin a stream.
Store mayonnaise in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
tablespoon) serving: 113 calories; 12 g fat; 2 g saturated
fat; 10mg cholesterol; no protein; no carbohydrate; no
sugar; no fiber; 38 mg sodium; 1 mg calcium.
by Daniel Neman
WHOLE-GRAIN MUSTARD WITH HORSERADISH
About 2 3/4 cups
cup yellow mustard seeds
cup brown mustard seeds
cup cider vinegar
cup dark ale
cloves garlic, minced
teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 to 2
tablespoons prepared horseradish
tablespoon granulated sugar
teaspoons ground allspice
teaspoon ground nutmeg
a nonreactive (nonaluminum) pot or jar, combine the yellow
and brown mustard seeds, vinegar, ale, garlic and
Worcestershire sauce, cover and soak for 48 hours. Add
additional vinegar and ale in equal amounts if necessary to
maintain enough liquid to cover the seeds.
Pour into a food processor. Add the remaining ingredients
and process until the mustard turns into a coarse-grained
but creamy mixture flecked with seeds, about 2 to 3 minutes.
Add additional vinegar and ale in equal amounts if necessary
to create a creamy mustard; keep in mind that it will
thicken slightly upon standing. Mustard may be stored in an
airtight container in the refrigerator for several months.
teaspoon) serving: 6 calories; no fat; no saturated fat; no
cholesterol; no protein; 1 g carbohydrate; no sugar; no
fiber; 37 mg sodium; 2 mg calcium.
from "The Mustard Book" by Jan Roberts-Dominguez