or stir-fried green beans turn wrinkly which one would
think means ruined but the truth is that the slow
roasted, quick fried, chili-spiked, sesame-warmed bean
is an intensely flavorful delight.
good. Wrinkled: bad. Standard policy in many a household,
especially for linens and skin. Smooth suggests order,
freshness, vitality. Wrinkled suggests ruin.
abound: The crinkled face of the poppy. The creased and
crumpled high-fashion frock. The green bean.
off the vine, the green bean offers a smooth hand and crisp
bite. Steamed, it blushes verdant and vibrant. If not
the green bean can be roasted and stir-fried into wrinkly
excess. In this state, the limp bean no longer speaks of
order, freshness and vitality. With its brown spots and
craggy skin, it suggests ruin.
taste reveals the truth: that the slow roasted, quick fried,
chili-spiked, sesame-warmed bean is an intensely flavorful
delight. Inspiration enough to give up on ironing.
pound green beans, ends trimmed, rinsed and dried
teaspoons peanut oil
teaspoon kosher salt
tablespoon soy sauce
tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger
teaspoon sesame oil
teaspoon Asian red chili paste (see note, below)
garlic clove, finely chopped
Roast: Toss beans with 2 teaspoons peanut oil and the salt.
Spread out on a rimmed baking sheet and slide into a
425-degree oven. Roast, shaking once or twice, until beans
are wrinkled and browned in spots, about 14 minutes.
Mix: Meanwhile, stir together soy, ginger, sesame oil and
chili paste. Pour into a serving bowl.
Stir-fry: Measure remaining 1 teaspoon peanut oil into a wok
or large, heavy skillet. Heat over medium-high. Add garlic
and cook, stirring, a few seconds. Add beans. Toss.
Season: Scoop beans into the serving bowl. Toss to coat with
Asian red chili paste is available in the grocery store,
alongside other Asian products, or from specialty markets.