radishes on sale at local farmers market.
winter, we love to feel the burn.
blustery days, hot radishes, a staple of cuisines worldwide,
open our sinuses and conquer our colds. They stimulate our
appetite and make our mouths water. Prime rib and sushi
wouldn’t be the same without them.
daikon and wasabi — the most popular of the hot radishes
— share more than common cabbage cousins. They all contain
allyl isothiocyanate (AITC), which stimulates our noses as
well as our tongues. (Mustard and mustard seed have this
compound, too.) Although ingesting too much can be
physically painful, this compound also makes us feel warm
— a satisfying asset for any cold-weather food.
am lucky in that I rarely catch a cold or have congestion
issues, but I would go straight for the horseradish or
wasabi if I did," said Terri Gilliland, who owns Lucky
Dog Ranch in Dixon, Calif., with her husband, Ron, along
with Lucca and Roxy restaurants in Sacramento.
their ranch, the Gillilands raise their own all-natural
beef. Horseradish is an indispensable condiment with big
beef roasts such as prime rib.
favorite part of having prime rib is the horseradish,"
Gilliland said. "The one time we made it ourselves, it
was so strong, I thought we made a misstep, but then read
that using fresh root is always going to produce a much
stronger version than one you would buy."
horseradish — the stuff that comes in a jar — is a mix
of fresh grated horseradish preserved with vinegar and
seasoned with a little salt and a dash of sugar. To make
your own, use 1 cup grated fresh horseradish root to 1/2 cup
white, rice or wine vinegar, then season to taste. It will
keep in the refrigerator for weeks.
also spices up sauces, mashed potatoes and even apple tarts.
Eaten in Europe for centuries, it’s been part of American
cuisine since the first colonists. Pioneers brought it to
California. Back in Sacramento’s Gold Rush days, Mark
Twain likely enjoyed it grated on fresh oysters.
a treasured delicacy in Japan for more than 1,000 years, is
a more recent California transplant. With the rise in
popularity of sushi and other Japanese cuisine, wasabi —
or wasabi substitute — has become as prevalent in
flavorings as its western cousin, horseradish.
and wasabi are actually closely related, with both members
of the cabbage or mustard family. wasabi is often referred
to as "Japanese horseradish." Likewise,
horseradish is known in Japan as "Western wasabi."
Because wasabi is so expensive, horseradish is often
substituted for real green wasabi.
horseradish is an edible root, true wasabi is made from the
plant’s rhizomelike stem. wasabi is a tricky herb to grow;
it’s native to the banks of ice-cold mountain creeks with
its roots constantly bathed in chilly running water.
Horseradish is far less finicky. Harvested year round, it’s
sweetest and most available in winter and early spring.
daikon is a dependable (and delicious) workhorse. This
oversized radish not only serves as a spicy condiment, but
doubles as a salad or root vegetable, tasty both raw or
everyone remembers the first time they tried horseradish,
wasabi or daikon. That moment usually came with tastebud
to 30 years ago when Ron and I met, he took me to dinner in
San Francisco and, in my Colorado ranch girl ignorance, I
thought the ‘green stuff’ on the appetizer plate was
avocado and ate the the whole spoonful in one bite,"
Gilliland recalled. "It was wasabi and I thought I was
going to die. I had to run to the ladies room to splash cold
water on my face just for some relief. Ron, of course,
thought the whole thing was hysterical."
Ashworth of Del Rio Botanical in West Sacramento has plenty
of hot radish experience, both as a farmer and cook. Del Rio
supplies several Sacramento area restaurants with
organically grown radishes as well as many other vegetables.
favorite horseradish recipe includes tomatoes, so it is best
made before it freezes," Ashworth said. Her hot tomato
relish uses up a lot of late tomatoes as well as onions,
bell peppers and 3/4 pound horseradish.
recommends a wasabi cousin as a substitute for pricey wasabi
— wasabi arugula.
‘wasabi’ is just mustard and horseradish, dyed
green," she said. "Wasabi arugula has a different,
more fleeting heat — like expensive wasabi has. Cut into
small strips, it is eaten like wasabi."
arugula, available in some farmers markets, also can be
processed to resemble green wasabi paste.
peeled, is just like a breakfast radish," Ashworth
noted. "But with the peel, it is spicy. I eat it
without the peel."
courtesy American Lamb Board.
pounds American lamb stew meat, or shoulder or leg cut into
and freshly ground pepper
tablespoons olive oil
tablespoons unsalted butter
large yellow onion, diced
carrots, peeled and sliced into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
stalks celery, sliced 1/4-inch thick
ounces cremini or button mushrooms, halved
garlic cloves, minced
tablespoons all-purpose flour
lamb stock, or low-sodium beef broth
Irish stout, such as Guinness
teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks
tablespoons prepared horseradish
oven to 325 degrees. Season the lamb with 1 1/2 teaspoons of
salt and several grinds of pepper. In a Dutch oven, heat oil
over medium-high heat. Working in 2 batches, cook the lamb,
turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 8
minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate.
tablespoons of the butter to the pot; melt over medium heat.
Add the onion, carrots, celery, mushrooms, and garlic,
cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables
begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Uncover, sprinkle with
flour, and stir it in. Pour in the stock, 1 cup at a time,
stirring to combine completely with each addition. Add the
stout, rosemary, and 1 teaspoon of salt and bring to a boil
over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Return lamb to
the Dutch oven, cover, and place in oven to cook until the
lamb is tender, about 1 1/2 hours.
put the potatoes in a large saucepan; add enough water to
cover by 1 inch. Season generously with salt, cover the pan
and bring to a boil over high heat. Uncover, reduce heat to
medium and simmer until the potatoes are tender, 20 to 25
minutes. Drain well, then return potatoes to the pan. Cube 3
tablespoons butter and add it to the potatoes. Start mashing
the potatoes, and then gradually begin adding the sour
cream. Stir in horseradish; season with salt.
the stew is done, remove it from oven; increase the
temperature to 400 degrees. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Stir in the peas and pour the stew into a 3-quart baking
dish. Spread mashed potatoes evenly on top; use a fork to
make decorative lines or peaks. Cube the remaining 1
tablespoon butter and dot the top. Bake until potatoes are
crusty and browned in spots, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from
oven and let stand for about 5 minutes, then serve hot.
AND RADISH SALAD WITH PISTACHIOS
time: 30 minutes
blood oranges (about 1/2 pound)
medium navel oranges (about 1 pound)
de sel or coarse sea salt to taste
tablespoon chopped fresh mint, plus more for garnish
ounces radishes (about 1 cup sliced)
ounces daikon radish (about 1/3 daikon)
tablespoons fresh lemon juice
teaspoon agave nectar
teaspoon ground cinnamon, or more to taste
tablespoons roasted pistachio oil (or use olive oil)
cup lightly toasted unsalted pistachios (about 1 ounce)
orange peels: Cut off both ends of the oranges. Stand them
up on the cut side and remove the rest of the peel and pith
by cutting away strips; move your knife down the sides of
the orange from top to bottom. Use a cutting board with a
canal for catching juices, and cut oranges, crosswise, into
rounds. Place in a bowl and tip in juices. Add fleur de sel
and chopped mint, and toss together.
radishes and daikon as thin as you can. (Use a mandolin or a
Japanese slicer if you have one.) Place in separate bowl and
sprinkle with fleur de sel.
together lemon juice, agave, cinnamon, cayenne and pistachio
oil. Divide evenly among the two bowls with oranges and
radishes, and toss.
slotted spoon to lift oranges from juices that accumulate in
bowl and arrange, with radishes, on a platter or plates.
Just before serving, spoon on the juices and dressing left
behind in bowl, and top with pistachios and mint.
For a juicier salad, toss oranges and radishes together
rather than keeping them in separate bowls and skip the
slotted spoon. Serve in bowls and sprinkle pistachios on
WITH HORSERADISH-BEET AIOLI
1 3/4 hours, plus marinating
is a modern tweak of the classic German dish tafelspitz, or
boiled beef. Purchased mayonnaise will work if you don’t
have time to make your own aioli.
by Melissa Clark of The New York Times.
pounds center-cut beef tenderloin, boneless rib roast or
center-cut London broil, trimmed
teaspoons kosher salt, more as needed
teaspoons black pepper
grated zest of 1 lemon
garlic cloves, finely grated on a microplane or mashed
large leeks, white and light green parts, trimmed, halved
lengthwise and rinsed
tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
cup dry white wine
mixed root vegetables, such as parsnip, carrot, turnip,
celery root and rutabaga, trimmed, peeled and cut into
3/4-inch chunks (1 1/2 pounds trimmed)
smashed and peeled garlic cloves
good-quality beef stock (or chicken stock in a pinch)
small bunch thyme, tied with kitchen twine
juice, as needed
sea salt, as needed
chives, for garnish
the fresh horseradish and beets:
medium horseradish root (about 10 ounces), peeled and cut
into large chunks
small raw beet, peeled
cup white wine vinegar
tablespoons granulated sugar
teaspoon kosher salt
large egg, at room temperature
large egg yolk, at room temperature
of 1/2 lemon
teaspoon kosher salt
extra-virgin olive oil
the beef: Pat the beef dry and season all over with salt,
pepper, lemon zest and grated garlic. Cover with plastic
wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight.
the fresh horseradish and beets: In a food processor fitted
with the grating blade, grate horseradish and beet. Replace
the grating blade with the food processor chopping blade.
Add vinegar, sugar and salt. Process until mixture is finely
chopped, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of
the bowl, 2 to 3 minutes.
the aioli: In a medium bowl, whisk together egg, egg yolk,
lemon juice and salt. Whisking constantly, add oil in a
thin, steady stream until fully incorporated. (Or do this in
the blender if you prefer.) Aioli should be emulsified, but
somewhat loose. Stir in 2 to 4 tablespoons horseradish
mixture, to taste; reserve remaining horseradish mixture and
serve alongside aioli and beef. Chill aioli until needed; it
will keep for up to 5 days.
beef from refrigerator. If needed, fold the thin end of the
meat over itself so the meat becomes an evenly thick log,
then tie ends with kitchen twine. (Skip this step if the
meat is already an evenly thick log.)
three leek halves together with kitchen twine, securing them
in at least two places so that the leeks don’t slip out.
Repeat with remaining leek halves.
oil over medium-high heat in the bottom of a wide Dutch
oven. Add beef and brown well on all sides, about 10
minutes. Transfer meat to a platter. Stir in wine and cook,
scraping up any browned bits from bottom of pan, until
reduced by half, about 3 minutes.
leeks, root vegetables, garlic and stock to the pot. Tie
thyme branches together with twine and drop into the pot.
Stir in bay leaf. Bring mixture to a simmer.
meat and any juices on the plate and cook, partly covered,
at a gentle simmer (do not let it come to a boil) until meat
reaches desired doneness (120 degrees on an instant-read
thermometer for rare), 15 to 25 minutes. Immediately remove
meat from pot, transfer to a plate, and tent with foil to
rest 10 minutes.
vegetables are not quite tender, continue to simmer them
until they are. Taste stock and season with salt and a
squeeze of lemon.
the meat thinly just before serving. To serve, spoon
vegetables into shallow bowls and arrange meat on top. Ladle
a little of the broth over and around meat and vegetables.
Sprinkle with coarse sea salt and chopped chives. Serve with
aioli and additional fresh horseradish and beets.
TART WITH HORSERADISH
sugar-free recipe from Jeffrey Deutsch was a finalist in the
2016 St. Louis Post-Dispatch pie contest.
Golden Delicious apples, divided
of 1 lemon
teaspoon prepared horseradish
tablespoons of butter
tablespoons honey, optional
oven to 350 degrees. Peel, core and slice 4 of the Golden
Delicious apples. Add the lemon, salt, cinnamon and
horseradish, and cook at a very low temperature until it
forms applesauce, about 20 minutes. Do not rush this step.
tart shell in oven until a light golden brown. Keep the oven
the remaining 3 Golden Delicious apples and the Gala apples
and slice them thin. A bit of lemon juice with keep them
from browning. Put the apples in the microwave for 2 1/2 to
3 minutes to soften them slightly.
the applesauce is ready, drain any excess juice through a
sieve or strainer and place the sauce in the bottom of the
tart shell. Arrange the sliced apples, alternatively red and
green, around the edge of the tart shell, standing the apple
slices at an angle in the apple sauce.
small pot, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the
bourbon and cook until reduced by half. Pour gracefully over
the top of the completed tart. Bake for 20 minutes.
and serve. If desired, drizzle honey over the top.
serving: 316 calories; 12g fat; 5g saturated fat; 11mg
cholesterol; 2g protein; 53g carbohydrate; 30g sugar; 4g
fiber; 140mg sodium; 20mg calcium.
AND DILL CREAM CHEESE MASHED POTATOES
these alongside meatloaf. Recipe from the Associated Press.
pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and diced
cup (1 stick) butter
cup heavy cream
tablespoon dried dill
ounces cream cheese, softened
tablespoons bottled horseradish
and ground black pepper, to taste
the potatoes in a large pot. Add enough water to cover the
potatoes by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then
lower the temperature to medium-high to maintain a low boil.
Cook until tender, about 25 minutes.
the final 5 to 10 minutes of cooking, in a small saucepan
over medium-low heat, combine the butter, cream, and dill.
Once the butter melts, mix well and set aside.
the potatoes. Return them to the pot and mash them.
electric mixer, whisk, or masher to lightly beat the
potatoes. Mix in the butter and cream mixture, then the
cream cheese and horseradish. Season with salt and pepper.
SALMON WITH HORSERADISH AIOLI
can break up the timing/prep of this recipe, make the aioli
in advance so it’s nice and chilled by the time the fish
horseradish is worth having on hand, so don’t be worried
if you have to buy a larger piece than is called for here.
It brings a bright intensity to the aioli. (The flavor will
mellow after a day or two.) Grate it fresh as you need it to
make your own cocktail sauce, a dip with sour cream or
crème fraîche (for fish, chicken or prime rib); add it to
a slaw or mashed potatoes. It lasts in the refrigerator in a
food-safe plastic storage bag for weeks; wrap the cut side
with a damp paper towel.
have leftover aioli, which can be refrigerated for up to 3
with a mash of minted fresh peas or new potatoes.
from "In My Kitchen: 100 Recipes and Discoveries for
Passionate Cooks," by Ted Allen.
1-inch-wide piece fresh horseradish
6 leaves flat leaf parsley
large egg yolks
teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
cup plus 2 tablespoons canola oil
cup extra virgin olive oil
teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
skin-on salmon fillets, 6 to 8 ounces each, preferably
or all-purpose flour, for dusting
the horseradish. Use a Microplane grater or the small-holed
side of a box grater to grate the horseradish to yield 2
tablespoons. Mince the parsley to yield 1 tablespoon.
the egg yolks, salt and water in the bowl of a food
processor. With the motor running, gradually add the 1/2 cup
each of canola and olive oils (one after the other) to form
an emulsion close to the consistency of mayonnaise. Squeeze
in the juice from the 1/2 lemon (1 tablespoon), then add the
Worcestershire sauce, the grated horseradish and the
parsley. Pulse a few times, just until well incorporated.
Transfer to a serving bowl, cover and refrigerate while you
cook the fish.
the oven to 400 degrees. Heat a large, ovenproof sauté pan
or skillet over medium heat for about 5 minutes or until it
is quite hot. Meanwhile, use paper towels to pat the salmon
fillets dry on all sides. Season them lightly with salt.
the Wondra flour to dust the fillets on all sides, shaking
off any excess flour. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of
canola oil to the pan or skillet and swirl to coat. Add the
fillets, skin side down. After about 30 seconds, shake the
pan or skillet to keep the fillets from sticking (or use a
fish spatula to gently dislodge them if needed). Cook for
about 3 minutes, then turn over the fillets.
the pan or skillet to the oven and cook for 6 to 8 minutes
or until the fish is just cooked through but not yet flaky.
Divide among individual plates.
warm, passing the chilled aioli at the table.
SHRIMP CAKES WITH AVOCADO-WASABI SAUCE
adapted from Ellie Krieger.
the shrimp cakes:
pound peeled and deveined large (26-30 count) shrimp, finely
whole-wheat panko bread crumbs, or more as needed
cup finely chopped, seeded red bell pepper
tablespoons finely chopped scallion greens
tablespoons roasted sesame seeds
large egg, lightly beaten
tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
teaspoons toasted sesame oil
teaspoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger root
teaspoons fresh lime juice
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
cup canola or other neutrally flavored oil
from 1 ripe avocado
tablespoon fresh lime juice, or more as needed
teaspoon prepared wasabi paste, or more as needed
the shrimp cakes: Combine the shrimp, half of the panko, the
bell pepper, scallions, roasted sesame seeds, egg, cilantro,
toasted sesame oil, ginger, lime juice, salt and black
pepper in a mixing bowl, stirring until just combined. If
the mixture seems overly moist, stir in more panko a
tablespoon at a time. Spread the remaining panko in a
shallow bowl; you’ll need about 1/2 cup for coating, so
you may have to add a bit if you used more for the mixture.
Divide the shrimp mixture into 12 equal mounds, then shape
each one into a patty about 2 1/2 inches wide and about
1/2-inch thick. Coat each patty well with the remaining
the cakes in the refrigerator for 20 to 30 minutes to firm
up. Meanwhile, make the sauce: Use a fork to mash together
the avocado, lime juice, wasabi paste and salt in a medium
bowl until smooth. Taste, and mix in more wasabi paste as
needed. The yield is 3/4 cup. If not using right away, cover
with plastic wrap directly on the surface and refrigerate
until ready to serve (or up to 2 days in advance).
the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Once
the oil shimmers, add as many shrimp cakes as will fit in
the pan without crowding. Reduce the heat to medium-low;
cook until the cakes are golden brown on both sides and
cooked through, about 5 to 6 minutes per side. Just before
serving, taste the avocado-wasabi sauce; add lime juice
and/or wasabi, as needed. Dollop 1 tablespoon of the sauce
on each shrimp cake.
about 8 quarts
a lot of tomatoes as well as horseradish in this spicy
condiment. This recipe come from Suzanne Ashworth of Del Rio
Botanical in West Sacramento. "It will keep for several
months under refrigeration," she said.
pounds of tomatoes, cored and chopped
onions, peeled and chopped
peppers, seeded and chopped
pound horseradish, finely grated
of cider vinegar
cup coarse non-iodized salt
tablespoon black pepper
all ingredients together. Pack into sterile quart jars, seal