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Crack
Pie: It's love at first bite. Sold at Momofuku
Bakery & Milk Bar in Manhattan, this pie has
taken New York City by storm, partly because of the
audacious name, partly because of the jaw-dropping
price tag, $44 a pie, and partly because anyone who
has tried it, can't stop raving about it.
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As a woman, I know I'm
supposed to swoon at the sight of chocolate and lower my
voice when I rhapsodize about chocolate truffles, souffles
and bouchons, as if I were talking about an illicit love
affair.
So the first time my
then-boyfriend, now-husband brought me a box of exquisite
chocolates for St. Valentine's Day, I squealed with delight
like I knew I should — and then promptly stowed the box in
the back of the fridge. He found them a few months later —
the cold and the cocoa butter had already rendered them
dusty, and it was clear that I hadn't eaten a single one.
He looked at me, he looked
down at the box he held in his hand, he looked back at me
— a look of utter shock on his face. I was caught. I had
no choice but to confess:
I don't like chocolate.
I'm actually not much for
sugar at all. Now, don't get me wrong. I have yet to turn
down a dessert that is offered to me. But when it comes to
cravings, I tend toward the salty and crunchy. Say, a plate
piled high with twice-fried French fries. Or salty potato
chips. Or salty pretzels. Or salty ... well, you get the
idea.
But then I met Crack Pie.
Sold at Momofuku Bakery &
Milk Bar in Manhattan, this pie has taken New York City by
storm, partly because of the audacious name, partly because
of the jaw-dropping price tag — $44 a pie, yes, $44 a pie
— and partly because anyone who has tried it, including
myself, CNN bigwig Anderson Cooper and the people who are
buying the 60 to 90 Crack Pies sold each day or two, can't
stop raving about it.
Still not convinced?
Out-of-town demand is so high that the bakery just started
shipping the pie by FedEx. They've even sought trademark
protection for the name.
Crack Pie is a twist on Chess
Pie — an old-school dessert found in the "Joy of
Cooking," popular because it can be made with common
pantry ingredients such as butter, eggs, sugar and vanilla.
But Milk Bar pastry chef
Christina Tosi's reimagining makes Crack Pie an original.
Instead of just a humdrum pie shell that serves as a
container for the filling, Tosi dreamed up a shell that
begins with a homemade oat cookie blended with a bit more
butter, sugar and a healthy dash of salt.
The result is a crust that is
divinely rustic and unrefined — don't bother trying to get
a perfect edge as you press it into the pie plate. It just
won't happen.
Under Tosi's reconsidering,
the interior of this pie takes a glug of heavy cream, a bit
of milk powder to help give the mixture body and egg yolks
instead of whole eggs.
It's baked at 350 degrees for
15 minutes, and then 325 degrees for about 10 minutes, just
until the top is golden brown. The interior will jiggle when
you remove it from the oven.
You will fear that the pie is
undercooked.
But you must have faith.
It's not an understatement to
say that this pie defies description. But I'll try. It's
ooey-gooey. Buttery and rich. Silky. Pillowy. I'll wager
that it's not like any pie you've ever had before because
that salty-sweet-crunchy-oaty crust is as much a part of the
pie as the filling itself. In a weird way, it reminds me of
kettle corn, with that one-two, salty-sweet hit that keeps
you coming back for more. And more. And more.
Tosi says Crack Pie must be
served cold. And this is where she and I disagree. Take it
out of the oven and let it cool just a bit — otherwise,
it's like pouring molten lava on your tongue, and I tell you
this from personal experience — but you want it to be warm
when served.
Tosi and I agree, however, on
how it should be eaten.
With a spoon.
While it's still in the pie
plate.
With your favorite someone.
It's clear that I'm in love.
I'm prepared to forsake all others. In my mind, I might as
well be on a Crack Pie diet — reaching this level of
dessert nirvana means I can happily pass up all other
desserts forevermore. (This must be what other women mean
when they say they will do anything for chocolate.)
As for my husband, he's given
up trying to guess what I want for Valentine's Day. We're at
that "Here's the credit card, just tell me what I
bought you" stage. But that doesn't mean romance is
dead. I know exactly what I am buying for this holiday of
love, and with whom I'm going to eat it.
And if you ask me for
details, I'll look around to make sure no one else is
listening in, drop my voice to a throaty whisper — and
tell you all about it.
———
MOMOFUKU'S CRACK PIE
Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus
cooling and chilling times
Servings: Makes 2 pies (6 to
8 servings each)
Note: Adapted from Momofuku.
This pie calls for 2 (10-inch) pie tins. You can substitute
9-inch pie tins, but note that the pies will require
additional baking time, about 5 minutes, due to the
increased thickness of the filling.
Cookie for crust
2/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon (3
ounces) flour
Scant 1/8 teaspoon baking
powder
Scant 1/8 teaspoon baking
soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) softened
butter
1/3 cup (2 1/2 ounces) light
brown sugar
3 tablespoons (1 1/4 ounces)
sugar
1 egg
Scant 1 cup (3 1/2 ounces)
rolled oats
1. Heat the oven to 375
degrees.
2. In a medium bowl, sift
together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.
3. In the bowl of a stand
mixer using the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl using
an electric mixer, beat the butter, brown sugar and sugar
until light and fluffy.
4. Whisk the egg into the
butter mixture until fully incorporated.
5. With the mixer running,
beat in the flour mixture, a little at a time, until fully
combined. Stir in the oats until incorporated.
6. Spread the mixture onto a
9-inch-by-13-inch baking sheet and bake until golden brown
and set, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and cool to the
touch on a rack. Crumble the cooled cookie to use in the
crust.
Crust
Crumbled cookie for crust
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter
1 1/2 tablespoons (3/4 ounce)
brown sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
Combine the crumbled cookie,
butter, brown sugar and salt in a food processor and pulse
until evenly combined and blended (a little of the mixture
clumped between your fingers should hold together). Divide
the crust between 2 (10-inch) pie tins. Press the crust into
each shell to form a thin, even layer along the bottom and
sides of the tins. Set the prepared crusts aside while you
prepare the filling.
Filling
1 1/2 cups (10 1/2 ounces)
sugar
3/4 cup plus a scant 3
tablespoons (7 ounces) light brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup plus 1 teaspoon (3/4
ounce) milk powder
1 cup (2 sticks) butter,
melted
3/4 cup plus a scant 2
tablespoons heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
8 egg yolks
2 prepared crusts
Powdered sugar, garnish
1. Heat the oven to 350
degrees.
2. In a large bowl, whisk
together the sugar, brown sugar, salt and milk powder. Whisk
in the melted butter, then whisk in the heavy cream and
vanilla.
3. Gently whisk in the egg
yolks, being careful not to add too much air.
4. Divide the filling evenly
between the 2 prepared pie shells.
5. Bake the pies, one at a
time, for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 325 degrees
and bake until the filling is slightly jiggly and golden
brown (similar to a pecan pie), about 10 minutes. Remove the
pies and cool on a rack.
6. Refrigerate the cooled
pies until well chilled. The pies are meant to be served
cold, and the filling will be gooey. Dust with powdered
sugar before serving.
Each of 16 servings: 432
calories; 4 grams protein; 45 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram
fiber; 27 grams fat; 16 grams saturated fat; 187 mg.
cholesterol; 36 grams sugar; 125 mg. sodium.
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