Sauteed mushrooms and bell peppers make a "meaty" and flavorful burger.

These veggie burgers draw their flavor from vegetables, and that’s the way it should be.

The most foolproof here are the grilled portabella mushrooms, so it’s no wonder Robin Donovan serves them up in "Campfire Cuisine." They’re sturdy and so easy to prepare. Spray the caps with olive oil, shake on a little salt and pepper, and grill. They’re ready in about 15 minutes.

The rest of the recipes will require stovetop cooking, because the delicate patties won’t fare well on the grill. Flip them carefully, or they’re liable to fall apart.

While fragile in structure, they’re big on flavor and plenty accommodating when it comes to swapping ingredients.

Make them with any vegetable or beans on hand that can be mashed: black, white or red beans, chickpeas, lentils or potatoes. Swap the vegetables: beets for carrots, or try parsnips, sweet potatoes. Change up the binders: Use quick cook oats, bread crumbs, unseasoned cornmeal stuffing. Add some texture: Cooked brown rice, red rice and quinoa are perfect standbys. Alter the spices by using a prepackaged blend or adding in cumin or coriander. Above all, enjoy.

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VEGAN BURGERS

Serves 4

Ingredients:

2 cups cooked or canned black, white or red beans, chickpeas, or lentils, drained, liquid reserved

1 small onion, chopped

1 tablespoon garlic, chopped

½ cup rolled oats

4 carrots, peeled and grated (1½ cups)

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley or cilantro

1 tablespoon chili powder or other spice mix

1 teaspoon salt, black pepper to taste

¼ cup olive oil

8 slices whole wheat toast or buns

4 lettuce leaves, tomato, half red onion, 4tablespoons mustard Instructions:

Combine beans, onion, garlic, oats, carrots, parsley, chili powder, salt and pepper in a food processor. Pulse until combined but not puréed. If the mixture does not hold together, add reserved bean liquid a tablespoon at a time until it does. Let the mixture rest for a few minutes before shaping burgers.

Shape into patties 1 inch thick. Cover and refrigerate for several hours. Film the bottom of a large nonstick or cast-iron skillet with the oil and turn the heat to medium. Cook patties in the hot skillet, 3 to 5 minutes per side.

This recipe is from "VB6: Eat Vegan Before 6:00 to Lose Weight and Restore Your Health … for Good," by Mark Bittman (Clarkson Potter, $26).

Per serving: 530 calories; 14 grams protein;

74 grams carbohydrates; 22 grams fat; 1,043 milligrams sodium; 12 grams fiber; 9 grams sugar.

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GRILLED PORTABELLA BURGERS

Serves 4

Ingredients:

4 large portabella mushrooms, stems trimmed

Olive oil spray

Salt and pepper

4 hamburger buns, toasted

½ cup jarred roasted red bell peppers

Instructions:

Spray the mushrooms all over with olive oil or cooking spray. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Grill over medium-high heat for 7 to 8 minutes per side, until tender. Serve on toasted buns, topped with roasted peppers and any other desired garnishes.

This recipe is from "Campfire Cuisine: Gourmet Recipes for the Great Outdoors," by Robin Donovan (Quirk Books, $15.95).

Variations:

Grill cup side down for 10 minutes, then turn. Fill the cavities with slivers of Comté or Gruyere cheese and a heaping tablespoon crème fraîche and grill for 10 more minutes.—from "The Picnic Cookbook," by Annie Bell (Kyle Books, $19.95).

Make a marinade with ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, ¼ cup inexpensive balsamic vinegar, ¼ cup soy sauce and 3 garlic cloves. Place the marinade ingredients and 4 mushroom caps in a zipper-top bag for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours before grilling.—From "100 Grilling Recipes You Can’t Live Without," by Cheryl and Bill Jamison (The Harvard Common Press, $16.95).