Indian-style slaw features finely julienned carrots,
pea pods, cabbage and jicama, garnished with shredded
coconut, peanuts and cilantro.
that our old pal global warming has kicked summer back into
spring, no doubt youíve been firing up the grill for
several weeks now, charring yourself some luscious hunks of
bloody, bloody meat.
seriousness, though, beloved peeps, unless youíre
suffering from a bit of the lycanthropy, youíre going to
need something more than flesh to satisfy your pangs.
thatís where the mighty slaw comes in.
slaw, with your tangy crunch and bumptiously high-fibered
nutritional content, why have we not feted you previously?
YOU NEED TO LEARN THIS
discussed previously and at length the need to adhere like
Scotch tape to the rigid principles of jingoistic Amerkinism.
Sure, slawís origins are not in this country (not unlike
most of ours), but youíd still be hard-pressed to find a
family barbecue in the U.S of A. without at least one bowl
brimming with the stuff. Without slaw, itís just not a
barbecue; itís just a bunch of woebegone werewolves
wishing for more napkins.
STEPS YOU TAKE
of course the most common kind of slaw is of the cole-ish
kind. In fact, the word "coleslaw" is simply a
transliteration from the Dutch "koolsla," which,
according to the Oxford English Dictionary, the foremost
authority on the origin of English language words, is a form
of "kool-salade" or cabbage salad.
by the way, that "kohl" sound is found in many
members of the family Brassica, which the kids these days
like to refer to as the "cabbage family."
Broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi, collards, Border collies
ó itís all right there.
right: Come for the slaw. Stay for the lexicological
when most of us think of coleslaw, weíre thinking of
shredded (or chiffonade of) cabbage dressed with a creamy
mayonnaise dressing. (Unless youíre from North Carolina,
in which case, your cabbage might be diced and tossed with a
aside, though, if we recall that the "slaw" means
"salad," our eyes are now open to a whole world of
possibilities. Anything you can make into a salad, you can
make into a slaw. In fact, what even is the difference?
Iím no Rex Tillerson*, but, Iíd say that while all slaws
are salads, not all salads are slaws. For one thing, salad
ingredients can come in all shapes and sizes, but slaw
ingredients generally are shredded or minced. Also, show of
hands: How many of you have ordered a salad and asked for
the dressing on the side? slaws are generally dressed.
want to make a slaw then, all you have to do is get some
very fresh vegetables (Itís farmers market season,
kids!!!), render them into small bits, coat them lightly
with a delicious dressing and, as my fine young son used to
bellow on the tennis court: "Blammo!"
have achieved slaw.
word about that "rendering into small bits" part:
If youíre going to cut the ingredients by hand, julienne
or small dice are nice sizes. Alternately, you can run
everything over a box grater or through the shredding
attachment on your food processor. "Large holes or
small," I can hear your fretting from here. Remember,
this is why your ancestors came here from those other
oppressive, proper-grater-hole-size-demanding countries.
using vegetables like broccoli or cauliflower, break them
into the smallest florets you can manage.
speaking, slaws are defined by their main ingredient or
ingredients. I tend not to use more than three, only because
it takes up too much space on the menu. Think broccoli,
raisin and carrot, or carrot, snow pea and radish, or
radish, jicama and apple, or apple, fennel and cabbage, or
cabbage, carrot and scallion, or scallion, edamame and
bacon. OK, this is getting nutsy, fast. But, see what Iím
doing? Iím just riffing on ingredients that taste good raw
(except the bacon), then putting them together all crazylike.
Or, you can fancy up your basic coleslaw by combining your
cabbage with just about anything else.
letís get some ideas for dressings. All of the following
are acid-based (vinegar, citrus), but they also can be
stirred into mayonnaise for a creamier slaw. Also, remember
that everything needs salt to taste:
1: Equal parts soy sauce, rice wine vinegar, sesame oil,
optional brown sugar; garlic, ginger, sesame seeds and/or
wasabi paste to taste.
2: Two parts lime juice to one part each fish sauce, brown
sugar, optional peanuts or peanut butter; garlic, cilantro,
mint and salt to taste.
American (think "chimichurri"): Equal parts
cilantro and parsley finely chopped with garlic to taste;
stir into 2-to-1 blend of extra-virgin olive oil and sherry
or red wine vinegar; oregano and red pepper flakes to taste.
Equal parts lime juice, oil, shredded coconut, peanuts and
cilantro; garam masala and a pinch of turmeric to taste.
Carolina (Piedmont): Equal parts ketchup, cider vinegar and
sugar; black pepper and optional hot sauce or cayenne pepper
go make some slaw.
anyone can explain this joke to me, Iím listening.
friend and colleague, chef Wook Kang, featured this recently
on the dinner menu at the Dining Room at Kendall College.
ounces Romaine lettuce, chiffonade
ounces radicchio, chiffonade
ounces frisee, chiffonade
ounces Caesar slaw dressing, see recipe
ounces Parmesan, grated
ounces bacon lardons, crisped
ounces Italian parsley, finely minced
three lettuces with dressing.
Serve, topped with grated Parmesan, bacon and parsley.
about 1 3/4 cups
ounces Parmesan, grated
cloves garlic, minced
ounces cider vinegar
ounce lemon juice
tablespoon Dijon mustard
tablespoon balsamic vinegar
tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
tablespoon hot sauce, optional
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
ounce anchovy paste
and pepper to taste
teaspoons finely minced parsley
large bowl, whisk all ingredients until combined. Chill 30
minutes before using.
information per serving: 329 calories, 28 g fat, 7 g
saturated fat, 39 mg cholesterol, 8 g carbohydrates, 1 g
sugar, 12 g protein, 942 mg sodium, 2 g fiber