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Carrots
from Thao Farms, at the Vineyard Farmers Market.
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Ah, mid-February. Right about
now, your New Year's resolution to eat healthful food is
wavering. Maybe all those Valentine's Day sweets already
pushed you over the edge.
To get back on track, it's
time to visit the farmers markets.
Cauliflower, broccoli and
cabbage almost are gone, while red leaf butter lettuce and
Russian and Tuscan kale are firmly in season, says farmer
Bruno Luconi, who sells fresh produce from the Kaiser
Permanente Fresno, Calif., farmers market.
"The fresher the
vegetable, the more energy it has for your body," says
Luconi, a member of the Mokichi Okada Association, an
international group that promotes healthy living.
"That's the best medicine that you can have."
This medicine looks
delicious.
Red chard beckons. So do the
long stalks of Chinese broccoli topped with yellow flowers.
The season is perfect for large, leafy heads of red-speckled
butter lettuce, baby romaine, and green and red crisp
lettuces. And so do snow pea shoots, green leaves of
lacinato kale and sorrel, as well as tender green garlic.
Green garlic is a reminder of
spring's treasures, such as strawberries and sugar snap
peas. But it's not yet time for those treats.
Instead, enjoy the promise of
this season. To make the most of the ubiquitous beets, dust
off a Thanksgiving salad recipe from private chef Wendy
Carroll of Seasoned to Taste in Fresno. Stir-fry some Hmong
sausage with Chinese broccoli. And pair caramelized shallots
with that lacinato kale.
The point is to cook simply,
letting the flavors of fresh fruits and vegetables dominate
a dish.
For inspiration, turn to
author Terry Walters' "Clean Food: A Seasonal Guide to
Eating Close to the Source," (Sterling Epicure, $30).
Her combinations (of fennel,
citrus and coriander, or Swiss chard with roasted golden
beets and sweet peas) will nudge you in the direction of
tasty, healthful food.
Eat like this for a few
weeks, and when spring arrives, you'll crave those
strawberries — without the chocolate.
———
KALE WITH CARAMELIZED
SHALLOTS
Makes 6 servings
2 bunches kale
6 large shallots, thinly
sliced
3 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil, divided
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/8 teaspoon coarse sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
In a large skillet or Dutch
oven over medium heat, saute shallots in 1 tablespoon olive
oil for 6-8 minutes or until very soft and caramelized.
Add lemon juice and saute
another 2-3 minutes to brown. Remove from heat and set
aside.
Bring a large pot of water to
a boil. Cut and remove dried stem ends from kale and
submerge whole leaves in boiling water for 2-3 minutes or
until tender and bright green. Remove from heat, drain water
and cut leaves into bite-size pieces. Add kale to pan with
shallots and saute 1 minute. Add remaining 2 tablespoons
oil, season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.
—"Clean Food: A
Seasonal Guide to Eating Close to the Source," by Terry
Walters (Sterling Epicure, $30)
———
SAUSAGE AND CHINESE BROCCOLI
STIR FRY
Makes about 4 servings
For the stir fry:
1 large bunch Chinese
broccoli (see notes)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 bunch green garlic, chopped
(see notes)
2-3 Hmong sausages, cooked
and sliced into 1/2-inch slices (see notes)
Crushed red pepper, to taste
For the sauce:
3 tablespoons soy sauce
3 teaspoons honey
3 tablespoons hot water
To make the stir fry: Remove
and discard any wilted leaves from the Chinese broccoli.
Trim off the dried ends of the stalks. Cut the Chinese
broccoli—stems, leaves and florets—into 1-inch pieces;
keep the stem pieces separate from the buds and leaves.
In a wok or large skillet,
heat oil over medium-high heat. Add Chinese broccoli stems,
then saute and stir just until tender.
Add green garlic, buds and
leaves of Chinese broccoli, and sausage. Stir and saute just
until vegetables have cooked down. (If your pan isn't large
enough to hold the entire mixture, cook it in batches.)
Turn the heat to medium-low.
To make the sauce: In a small
bowl, stir together the sauce ingredients. Add to the pan.
Stir until the mixture is lightly coated with the sauce.
Taste, then stir in crushed red pepper.
Serve immediately, with rice.
Notes: Chinese broccoli
resembles broccoli rabe; it has stems topped with long
leaves that surround small bunches of florets. Look for
Chinese broccoli at the farm stands of Asian farmers.
Green garlic is young garlic.
This early in the season, it looks like a green onion, with
long, thin greens atop a slender white bulb.
Hmong sausages are available
at Asian markets. Brown and fully cook the sausages before
using in this recipe.
—Joan Obra, The Fresno Bee
———
ROASTED BEET SALAD
Makes 8 servings
12 beets in assorted colors,
such as 4 red beets, 4 golden beets and 4 Chioggia beets
(see notes)
2 tablespoons finely minced
shallots
2 tablespoons fresh lemon
juice
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
Kosher salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper, to
taste
1/4 cup walnut oil
Assortment of fresh sprouts
(see notes)
Assorted lettuces and greens
(see notes)
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and
chopped
1/2 cup goat cheese, crumbled
(optional garnish)
Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
Separately wrap each color of beet tightly in double layers
of foil and roast in middle of oven until tender, 1 to 11/2
hours. Unwrap beets. (Beets also can be cooked a day ahead
and refrigerated.)
While beets are cooling,
whisk together shallots, lemon juice, sugar, salt and pepper
in a small bowl, then add oil in a stream and whisk until
combined.
When beets are cool enough to
handle, slip off and discard skins. (Keep the different
colors separate from each other, because the colors will
bleed.)
Cut beets into decorative
shapes (see notes) and put the different colors in separate
bowls. Drizzle one tablespoon of dressing over each bowl of
beets and toss lightly.
Using a light hand, toss
sprouts, lettuces and greens with dressing. Season to taste
with salt and pepper.
Distribute and arrange the
beets attractively among eight salad plates. Place dressed
sprouts, lettuces and greens on plate. Sprinkle with toasted
walnuts and optional goat cheese. Serve immediately.
Notes: Use whatever beets are
available at the local farmers markets. If you can find
them, Chioggia beets are particularly beautiful; their flesh
has red and white alternating rings.
Use a mix of lettuces and
greens with mild, peppery and slightly bitter flavors. Ones
in season include baby romaine, butter lettuces, arugula,
and dandelion greens.
This salad is all about
presentation. Choose different shapes, sizes and thicknesses
— such as triangles, circles or ovals. You might even use
cookie cutters to shape the beet slices.
For added color, reserve
liquid and any scraps from roasted beets. Puree these in a
blender with a few drops of walnut oil. Put this "beet
paint" into a squeeze bottle and use this to embellish
the individual salad plates.
—Wendy Carroll, Seasoned to
Taste
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