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Egg
rolls with sweet and sour sauce is one of the many
recipes that can be found in authors Stacey Krastins
and Sara Kallio's new cookbook, "The Stocked
Kitchen."
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Before you slice into a
tomato, chop an onion, pull out a skillet — before you
even turn on the stove — turn on your senses.
Your ability to use all your
senses — to see, hear, smell, feel and taste — may be
the simplest way to up your culinary cred.
"To ignore that is to
deprive yourself of some of the natural, most basic
pleasures of the craft," said Lauren Braun Costello,
New York-based chef-stylist and cookbook author during a
phone chat. Most important, she said, learn to taste.
"You peel a carrot. It
feels firm, and you say OK, it's crunchy. You bite into it,
and it's not that sweet, it's not that full of flavor or it
has an odd texture. You're tasting before you start
cooking," said Costello, who has written "Notes on
Cooking" and "The Competent Cook."
"You're a conductor and you've got all these musical
instruments and you're going to create a melody. You have to
really taste and see and feel and touch and smell how all
that is coming together."
For Marcus Samuelsson, chef
at restaurants Aquavit, in New York, and C-House, in
Chicago, that might mean incorporating vinegar or lime juice
into a savory sauce to brighten its flavor.
For Thomas Keller, chef at
Napa Valley restaurants French Laundry and Ad Hoc, that
might mean getting comfortable with touching food.
"I've found a lot of
people are afraid to touch food," he writes in "Ad
Hoc at Home." "Touching food is good. It ... gives
you results impossible to achieve when you're using long
metal utensils."
MORE TIPS:
Season as you go:
"Season meat before you brown it. Season meat as it
comes off the heat. Season the meat as you slice it,"
Costello said.
Season correctly: "When
you season food ... whether the food is raw or cooked,
always season from high above the food to ensure even
distribution," writes Keller.
Sweet, too: In "New
American Table," Samuelsson mixes Dijon mustard, maple
syrup, lime juice and olive oil for brushing on grilled
tuna. For salmon, a similar sauce uses honey instead of
syrup. Balsamic vinegar adds its sweetness to a toasted
sesame oil, olive oil and lime juice mix he splashes on
grilled chicken.
Balance a plate: "The
contrast and repetition of shapes, colors, textures and
sizes provide a powerful form of culinary
communication," Costello writes.
———
CRISPY BRAISED CHICKEN THIGHS
Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 45
minutes
Makes: 6 servings
A one-pot dish adapted from
chef Thomas Keller's "Ad Hoc at Home."
12 chicken thighs
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup canola oil
1 cup coarsely chopped onion
1 tablespoon finely chopped
garlic
3 large fennel bulbs,
trimmed, cored, cut into 2- by 1/2-inch batons (about 3
cups)
1/4 cup dry white wine
1 cup large green olives
1/4 teaspoon red pepper
flakes
4 fresh or 2 dried bay leaves
4 strips lemon zest
8 sprigs thyme
1 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley
leaves
1. Heat oven to 375 degrees.
Season the chicken thighs on both sides with the salt. Heat
2 tablespoons of the oil in a large ovenproof skillet over
medium-high heat. Cook the thighs, skin side down, in
batches if necessary, until brown, about 6 minutes per
batch. Turn the thighs over; cook 1 minute. Transfer to
cooling rack set in a baking sheet. (Add more oil to skillet
if needed to cook second batch.)
2. Reduce the heat to medium
low; add the onion. Cook 1 1/2 minutes. Add the garlic; cook
1 minute. Cook, stirring often, until the onion is
translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the fennel; turn the
heat up to medium. Cook, stirring often, until the fennel is
crisp-tender, about 10 minutes.
3. Pour in wine; simmer 2
minutes. Stir in the olives, red pepper flakes, bay leaves,
lemon zest, thyme and chicken stock. Heat to a simmer; cook
until the fennel is tender, about 1 minute.
4. Taste the stock; season
with salt as needed. Return the chicken to the skillet, skin
side up, in a single layer (if your skillet is not large
enough, use a roasting pan). When the liquid returns to a
simmer, transfer to the oven; cook until the chicken is
cooked through, about 20 minutes. Turn on the broiler; put
the pan under the broiler to crisp and brown the chicken
skin, about 2 minutes. Transfer to serving platter; garnish
with parsley.
Nutrition information:
Per serving: 571 calories, 65
percent of calories from fat, 41 g fat, 9 g saturated fat,
159 mg cholesterol, 15 g carbohydrates, 36 g protein, 779 mg
sodium, 5 g fiber
———
TURKEY MEATLOAF WITH
TOMATO-SPINACH SAUCE
Prep: 20 minutes Cooking: 1
hour 35 minutes Makes: 4 to 6 servings
Adapted from chef Marcus
Samuelsson's "New American Table"
3/4 cup water
11/2 teaspoons salt
3/4 cup uncooked semolina
couscous
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 red onion, chopped
8 tomatoes or 1 can (28
ounces) crushed tomatoes
1 green bell pepper, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon mild chili powder
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
1 large egg
1 pound ground turkey
Freshly ground pepper
2 cups baby spinach
4 basil leaves, torn in small
pieces
1. Heat water and 1/2
teaspoon of salt to a boil in a medium saucepan; turn off
the heat. Add the couscous; cover and let sit 5 minutes.
Fluff with a fork.
2. Heat olive oil in a large
skillet over medium heat. Add onion; cook until translucent,
about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, bell pepper, garlic,
chili powder and thyme; simmer until the tomatoes are broken
down and softened to a sauce, about 25 minutes.
3. Heat oven to 350 degrees.
Remove 1 cup of the tomato sauce; let it cool. Let the rest
of the tomato sauce continue to simmer over low heat,
stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, combine the 1
cup tomato sauce with couscous, egg and turkey. Season with
1/2 teaspoon of the salt and pepper to taste. Shape the
mixture into a loaf. Arrange the loaf on a parchment-lined
sheet pan; bake 1 hour.
5. Five minutes before the
meatloaf is ready, reheat the tomato sauce. Fold the spinach
and basil into the sauce. Season with remaining 1/2 teaspoon
of the salt and pepper to taste. Serve the sauce with the
meatloaf.
Nutrition information: Per
serving: 280 calories, 28 percent of calories from fat, 9 g
fat, 1 g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 27 g
carbohydrates, 25 g protein, 269 mg sodium, 4 g fiber
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