Vegetable Mash from Tyler Fox.
texture of Thanksgiving mashed potatoes is subjective, of
course. Personal chef Tyler Fox, who worked an unpaid job at
St. John and Rochelle Canteen in London, prefers a rustic
interpretation, or what Brits simply call "mash."
mash is heartier than a straight-laced puree of potatoes
because he adds celeriac, a root vegetable with a taste
similar to celery. Other names include turnip-rooted celery,
knob celery and celery root.
also adds parsnips, a root vegetable that looks like a white
copious amounts of butter or cream most Thanksgiving dishes
demand, Fox likes to add a bit of acidity with a garnish of
pickled mustard seed.
have the acidity to cut through cream or butter and the base
tones of potato," he says.
pickle mixed yellow and brown mustard seeds: Combine 1/2 cup
mustard seeds in saucepan with 1/2 cup unseasoned rice wine
vinegar, 1/4 cup sherry vinegar, 3/4 cup water, 1/4 cup
sugar and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring mixture to a boil for 30 to
40 minutes, stirring occasionally, to allow the seeds to
"bloom," releasing their natural pectins. Allow
mixture to cool; the seeds will continue to bloom and jell
to a spoonable consistency. Store in the refrigerator for up
to several months.
pinch, substitute white and red wines for rice wine and
sherry vinegars. Or, if you are looking for a shortcut,
substitute whole-grain mustard.
pounds starchy potatoes, such as Russet or Yukon Gold,
peeled and cut into chunks
1 to 2
medium-sized celery roots, about 1 pound, peeled and cut
into medium chunks
parsnips, peeled and cut in 1- to 2-inch pieces
cloves garlic, whole and peeled
teaspoon kosher salt
sprigs fresh thyme
fresh bay leaves
sprig fresh rosemary
tablespoons unsalted butter
tablespoons pickled mustard seeds or whole-grain mustard
and pepper to taste
large pot, cover potatoes, celery root, parsnips and garlic
with cold water and a teaspoon of salt. Over medium-high
heat, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Simmer until
cooked through and they can be pierced easily with a knife,
25 to 30 minutes.
small saucepan, bring heavy cream, thyme, bay leaves and
rosemary to a simmer and keep warm until time to mash.
mash by hand, drain root vegetables and return to pan while
mashing with a hand masher to a coarse puree. For a finer
puree, run vegetables through a food mill or ricer.
herbs from cream and stir into the root vegetables, being
gentle so as not to overwork the mixture, which can lead to
a gummy texture.
finish, stir in butter and pickled mustard seeds or
whole-grain mustard. Taste for seasoning, add salt and
pepper if necessary and keep warm in a casserole dish.
with warm Shiitake Mushroom Brandy Gravy.
serving: 326 calories (58 percent from fat), 22 g total fat
(13 g saturated), 70 mg cholesterol, 31 g carbohydrates, 5 g
protein, 227 mg sodium, 5 g dietary fiber.