| During
Jewish cooks around the world fry foods to commemorate
the ancient miracle of how a day's worth of oil burned
for eight days in the newly liberated temple of
Jerusalem. This year change things with a big plate of
freshly fried bimuelos.Bimuelos, dough fritters
drizzled with a sweet syrup or dusted with powdered
sugar. |
 |
Hanukkah
may be the Jewish festival of lights, but it is also, in the
culinary sense at least, a festival of oil. Jewish cooks
around the world fry foods to commemorate the ancient
miracle of how a day’s worth of oil burned for eight days
in the newly liberated temple of Jerusalem. Hanukkah begins
at sundown on Dec. 8 this year; greet it with a big plate of
freshly fried bimuelos.
Bimuelos
(bim-WAY-los) are dough fritters drizzled with a sweet syrup
or dusted with powdered sugar. These Sephardic treats can
provide a welcome alternative to latkes, the potato pancakes
most identified with Hanukkah in North America, or
sufganiyot, the jelly doughnuts so popular in Israel.
"I
love latkes, but one day is enough for them. Hanukkah is an
eight-day holiday," says chef Laura Frankel, author of
"Jewish Cooking for All Seasons." Bimuelos are
lighter, she said, and serving them allows celebrants to
shift the fried-food element of the meal from main course to
dessert.
Originating
in Spain, bimuelos became the "pre-eminent Sephardic
Hanukkah treat" and were often eaten daily during the
holiday, according to Gil Marks’ "Encyclopedia of
Jewish Food." Bimuelos spread through the Mediterranean
world when the Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492. It was
then, Marks said, that many began to replace the sugar used
as a topping in Spain with sweetened syrups common to the
Middle East.
"Bimuelo"
is the word for fritter in Ladino, a Judeo-Spanish language
that could be considered the Sephardic version of Yiddish.
The fritters are bunuelo in Spanish, loukoumas in Greek and
awamee in Arabic.
Tory
Avey, of Los Angeles, a food writer and blogger at The
Shiksa in the Kitchen, (theshiksa.com), remembers well her
first bite.
"I
thought they tasted a lot like beignets," says Avey,
referring to the famed fried dough balls of New Orleans.
"It was crispy and warm and doughnutlike and drizzled
with syrup." The fritters had an "exotic
perfume," she recalled, because her mother-in-law used
rose or orange water syrup to sweeten them.
While
Avey will plate the syrup-coated fritters to serve guests,
she admits with a laugh that when it’s just family,
everyone gathers around the frying pan. The sizzling
fritters can turn into all kinds of shapes in the hot oil,
she said, noting that when her husband was little, he would
see all sorts of things in the shapes as his mother did the
frying.
After
frying, bimuelos are drizzled with syrup. Honey is the
traditional choice. Choose a honey by the quality, Frankel
said, not because of a cute bear-shaped bottle. "Go for
a raw honey; it has better flavor," she said.
Avey
often follows her mother-in-law’s examples and uses rose
or orange water. There are other options. Avey might flavor
her sugar syrup with vanilla or coconut flavoring.
"You
could serve it with agave," she added, "or even go
with a good maple syrup. You can’t mess them up."
FRYING
TIPS
"People
frying at home always seems scary to me," admits chef
Laura Frankel, author of "Jewish Cooking for All
Seasons." It can be done, though, safely and relatively
easily. Here are some of Frankel’s tips for pain-free
bimuelo frying.
1.
Choose the right pan. "Go deeper than a saute
pan," Frankel said. One of those deep skillets used for
fried chicken or a heavy-bottomed saucepan could work.
2.
Have your bimuelos ready and fully risen before heating the
oil.
3.
Choose the right oil. Frankel uses a mild extra-virgin olive
oil heated to 350 degrees, no higher because olive oil has a
low smoking point. Olive oil has a more authentic flavor,
she says, though cold-pressed canola or grapeseed oil may be
substituted, Frankel said.
4. Use
a candy/deep-fry thermometer to check oil temperature.
Remember the oil temperature will drop when the fritters are
added.
———
FRITTERS
WITH SWEET SYRUP
Prep:
15 minutes
Cook:
4 minutes per batch
Makes:
20 fritters
Note:
Tori Avey of The Shiksa in the Kitchen blog said this recipe
stems from her Israeli mother-in-law. The original called
for yeast and needed time to rise; Avey uses baking powder
to speed up the prep. Her mother-in-law also uses a syrup
flavored with rose water or orange water for a
"wonderful, exotic Middle Eastern twist." Look for
them at specialty or ethnic markets.
Ingredients:
1 1/2
cups flour
1
teaspoon baking powder
Pinch
salt
1 egg
1 cup
milk
Grapeseed
or peanut oil for frying
For
the syrup
1 cup
sugar
3/4
cup water
1
tablespoon rose water or orange blossom water
Directions:
1. Mix
the flour, baking powder and salt together in a bowl with a
fork. Beat the egg in a separate bowl. Whisk the milk into
the egg until well combined. Add the egg-and-milk mixture to
the flour mixture; stir with a fork until a batter forms.
2.
Heat about an inch of oil in a deep skillet or
heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat until hot enough
for frying, about 365 degrees. Working in batches, use a
metal soup spoon to scoop up by heaping tablespoonfuls; drop
into the hot oil. The oil should sizzle but not splatter; if
the oil pops or splatters, let it cool slightly before
proceeding. Fry the fritters until golden brown on both
sides, turning once during cooking, 2-3 minutes total. Drain
fritters on rack set over paper towels.
3. For
the syrup, heat the sugar and water to a boil in a small
saucepan, stirring occasionally; add rose or orange blossom
water. Reduce heat; simmer until the liquid thickens and
coats the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Remove from
heat; cool slightly. Serve hot, with warm syrup poured over
freshly fried fritters.
Nutrition
information:
Per
fritter: 119 calories, 5 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 10 mg
cholesterol, 18 g carbohydrates, 2 g protein, 44 mg sodium,
0 g fiber.