Pie is adapted from Warren Brown's "Pie Love:
Inventive Recipes for Sweet and Savory Pies, Galettes,
Pastry Cremes, Tarts, and Turnovers."
pies, cream pies, cute little tarts. Love ‘em all.
one does not live by sweets alone.
love savory pies too. Hand pies like empanadas and pasties.
Phyllo pies filled with spinach. Flaky crusted pies packed
with meats or vegetables or seafood. Cornmeal-crusted chili
pies and shepherd’s pies with mashed potatoes handling
not surprising that pies — savory or sweet — resonate
often the nostalgia and comforting thoughts they conjure up
that make the pies seem to taste all the more
delicious," writes Angela Boggiano in "Pie"
(Mitchell Beazley, $24.99), her book celebrating an array of
savory pies, from beef and ale to fish.
Warren Brown, it’s the versatility of pies that prompted
his latest book, "Pie Love: Inventive Recipes for Sweet
and Savory Pies, Galettes, Pastry Cremes, Tarts, and
Turnovers" (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $24.95). The
founder-owner of the D.C.-based CakeLove bakeries and host
of Food Network’s "Sugar Rush" enjoys sweets, of
course, but loves cooking savory. Which is why Brown has
tucked five favorites ("recipes I make at home with my
family," he writes) among the book’s tarts and
turnovers, including shepherd’s pie and Jamaican beef
can just be very creative with a savory pie," adds
Brown during a phone chat. Especially with the color
variations from different crusts, whether it’s the cheese
crust he uses in a meatball pie or the paprika crust he
suggests for a chicken pie.
advice for novice crust-makers?
a sandwich out of parchment paper, then use it to roll out
the dough," he says. "Think of the round as a
clock. Roll out to 12 o’clock, then turn the dough five
minutes, roll to 12 o’clock, turn five minutes — that
really helps to do a nice round crust.
hold the pin itself, not the handles," he adds.
"If you hold the handles, you lose a lot of
Brown likes to dream up elaborate recipes is no surprise.
His meatball pie is an audacious mashup of American
favorites — pie, meatballs, a richly flavored sauce, plus
oodles of melted cheese.
a rich pie, which is why he suggests serving it with a
simple crisp salad. And if the multiple components overwhelm
you, consider preparing some elements ahead of time — the
tomato sauce and meatballs one day, the crust and assembly
the next — or make it a weekend project.
are a lot of steps to this one, so don’t worry if you need
to take a shortcut or make life more simple by using jarred
red sauce," Brown coaches. "If you have the time
to make all three parts from scratch, then by all means,
pour yourself a glass of wine and enjoy it."
strategy we heartily endorse with any made-from-scratch
savory pie. Tackling a pie crust? Fussing with a filling?
Why not? The good eating makes the work worthwhile.
APPLE AND SAGE PIE
30 minutes Cook: 40 to 45 minutes Makes: One 9-inch pie, 4-6
from Angela Boggiano’s "Pie." The author
suggests using a shallow metal pan "to ensure the base
stays crispy." She also uses a good-quality sausage
meat. Our test kitchen found a mix of ground pork (half
regular grind, half coarser grind) worked well.
stick (¼ cup) butter
lard or shortening
2 to 3
tablespoons olive oil
medium onions, finely sliced
pound good-quality sausage meat or ground pork (half
standard grind, half coarse grind)
tablespoon each: whole-grain mustard, chopped fresh sage
small apples, peeled, cored, chopped
tablespoons creme fraiche or sour cream
and freshly ground pepper
flour and pinch of salt into a bowl. Cut fat into cubes; add
to flour. Use your fingertips to rub fat into the flour
until mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add water very
gradually, stirring with a knife. When dough just starts to
stick together, knead lightly until it forms a ball. (Or,
pulse flour and salt in a food processor. Add cold butter;
pulse until crumbly. Add lard and 2 tablespoons water;
pulse. Add remaining tablespoon water; pulse again. Turn
onto counter; shape into a ball.)
pastry ball in plastic wrap; let rest in refrigerator, at
least 15 minutes. (Store for up to 2 days in the
refrigerator; or freeze until ready to use.)
oven to 400 degrees. Roll out a little less than half the
pastry; use to line a shallow 9-inch pie plate. Roll out
remaining pastry about ¾-inch larger than the pie plate;
oil in a large skillet. Add onions; cook gently until
softened, 8-10 minutes. Add meat to onions. Cook until meat
is browned, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon and
breaking up meat, 5 minutes. Off the heat, stir in mustard,
sage, apples and creme fraiche or sour cream. Season with
salt and pepper to taste. Mix well; allow to cool.
cooled meat-apple mixture into pastry-lined pie plate. Brush
edges of pastry with beaten egg. Top with remaining
rolled-out pastry, sealing edges by pressing down well. Trim
off excess pastry. Crimp edges with a fork or between your
thumb and index finger. Brush top with remaining egg. Make a
hole or several slashes in the top to release steam. Bake,
information per serving (for 6 servings): 508 calories, 37 g
fat, 13 g saturated fat, 85 mg cholesterol, 39 g
carbohydrates, 13 g protein, 539 mg sodium, 3 g fiber
2 hours, 20 minutes
2 hours, 30 minutes
from Warren Brown’s "Pie Love: Inventive Recipes for
Sweet and Savory Pies, Galettes, Pastry Cremes, Tarts, and
Turnovers" (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $24.95). You
will need a deep-dish pie pan that holds 6 to 8 cups. The
sauce, meatballs and crust can be made 1 or 2 days ahead.
Bring the elements to room temperature before assembling.
You may have some ingredients (sauce or meatballs, for
example) left over.
(8 ounces) freshly shredded mozzarella cheese
(6 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
recipe cheese pie crust (recipe below)
homemade tomato sauce (recipe below)
recipe homemade meatballs, 10 to 12 meatballs (recipe below)
or minced herbs such as thyme, basil, rosemary, oregano or a
mix, for sprinkling
and freshly ground pepper
oven to 375 degrees. Combine cheeses in a bowl; set aside.
Whisk egg; set aside. Using about two-thirds of the dough,
place it between two sheets of parchment paper. Roll into an
11- or 12-inch round. Gently fit into a deep-dish pie pan.
a thin layer of tomato sauce in the bottom of the crust,
using about ¼ cup. Add a single layer of meatballs, a
sprinkling of cheeses, then a sprinkling of mixed herbs,
salt and pepper. Repeat layering to fill pie. You may have
some ingredients left over.
remaining third of dough into a round a little less than
1/8-inch thick and large enough to cover pie. Lay across
top; cut steam vents and crimp edges. Brush top of pie with
whisked egg. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon mixed herbs, salt and
pepper. Bake until crust is nicely browned and the filling
is hot, 40-45 minutes. (Cover edges if they begin to brown
information per serving: 787 calories, 45 g fat, 23 g
saturated fat, 171 mg cholesterol, 56 g carbohydrates, 38 g
protein, 1,494 mg sodium, 5 g fiber
bacon adds a meatiness to this sauce, says Brown. It gets a
slow cook to concentrate flavors.
slice uncured bacon into small pieces. Brown bacon over
medium heat in a 6-quart saucepan; about 5 minutes. Remove
bacon; set aside. Drain off bacon grease if desired. Add 2
tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon unsalted butter and ½
teaspoon salt to the saucepan. Add 1 tablespoon each chopped
fresh basil and minced fresh thyme; 1 sprig fresh rosemary;
½ large yellow onion, chopped; and 3 crushed cloves garlic.
Stir; cook over medium heat until onion is translucent and
garlic just golden, about 8 minutes. Do not let vegetables
can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes, 1 can (28-ounces) crushed
tomatoes, ¼ cup tomato paste, 1 cup chicken stock and ¼
cup red wine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add
cooked bacon. Simmer, 1 hour. Sauce should be very thick.
Stir in 1 tablespoon fresh basil. Season with additional
salt and pepper if needed.
about 1 quart
large bowl, combine ½ pound each ground beef and ground
turkey; ½ cup finely chopped yellow onion; ¼ cup each
freshly grated Parmesan cheese and freshly shredded
mozzarella; 1 lightly beaten egg; 2 tablespoons breadcrumbs;
1 clove garlic, pressed; 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary;
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme; ½ teaspoon each smoked
paprika, salt and freshly ground black pepper; and ¼
teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg. Use your hands or a wooden
spoon to mix thoroughly.
¾ cup breadcrumbs in a quart-size plastic container.
Lightly shape 2 tablespoons meat mixture into a ball. Drop
into the crumbs and quickly rotate container to lightly coat
the meatball. Repeat with remaining meat and crumbs. Place
shaped meatballs on a parchment-lined baking sheet;
refrigerate 30 minutes. Heat oven to 300 degrees. Place 1
cup olive oil and 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in a 6-quart
saucepan or other high-sided pan. When oil is hot enough to
make a small tester piece of meat sizzle, transfer meatballs
into the oil with tongs. Don’t crowd the pan or allow them
to touch each other. Fry about 4 minutes; turn and cook 5
minutes longer. Transfer fried meatballs to a baking sheet;
bake 10 to 15 minutes.
suggests using a hard aged cheese that can be finely grated,
such as a pecorino Romano or Parmesan, to avoid a gritty
¾ cups flour, 1 teaspoon superfine sugar, ½ cup hard aged
cheese, finely grated, very cold, and ¼ teaspoon salt in
the bowl of a food processor; pulse 30 seconds to combine.
Cut ¾ cup very cold unsalted butter into small pieces; add
to flour mixture all at once. Pulse until mixture resembles
fine crumbs. Pulse in 6 tablespoons water, 1 tablespoon a
time, until dough comes together and rides on top of the
blade. Turn dough onto lightly floured parchment. Shape
dough into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate, 30
Enough dough for a 9- to 10-inch two-crust pie