| Any
way you serve it up, alone, with a side dish or flat
bread or add your favorite meat, soup is comfort in a
cup or a bowl. |
 |
They
couldn’t get enough mulligatawny. The soup party wasn’t
for another day, but the appetites of the guests for saying
the mouthful of mulligatawny couldn’t be satiated.
The
"Seinfeld" episode on Kramer’s favorite soup by
the Soup Nazi obviously had a lot to do with it, but
curiosities and appetites were piqued.
Here
was everyone’s chance to try the exotic mulligatawny.
What
is it? Where’s it from? What’s in it?
Truth
be told, they didn’t really want to know that it’s an
Indian soup with curry paste. Those with the biggest
appetite for saying mul-li-ga-tawny aren’t adventurous
eaters and wouldn’t touch it if they knew what was in it.
But
even these professed blandies lined up for a bowlful when a
double batch of soup emerged from the kitchen. They finally
got a taste of mulligatawny—and they liked it!
Soup
is universal. Spice it up, tone it down, keep it simple or
load it with ingredients. The results are the same: Warm or
cold, it’s comfort in a cup.
It’s
delicious and nutritious whether slurped from a cup or
savored with a spoon. You could say soup is giving — and
forgiving. Throw in anything. Thicken it in so many ways:
cornstarch, pureed cooked beans, cooked mashed potatoes, 2
tablespoons of almonds or cashews soaked in hot water and
pureed, barley, a flour slurry, with potato starch or
semolina flour.
The
other wonderful thing about soup is that it swings both
ways.
All of
these soups can be made with vegetable broth — with meat
added after the soup is done. So the newly minted vegetarian
at one end of the house and the lifelong meat eater at the
other end can both be happy without stressing the cook.
The
13-bean soup is a perfect example. The beans are cooked in
water, and then the stock is added to the soup trinity —
the cooked onion, carrot and celery.
Divide
the soup in half and the trinity in half and go with a ham
stock and chunks of ham in one version, and a vegetable
stock in the other. Perfect.
———
MIGHTY
MULLIGATAWNY
Serves
6
Ingredients:
Olive
oil
8 1/2
ounces quality ground beef
1 red
onion, peeled
2
carrots, peeled and finely chopped
4
cloves of garlic, peeled and finely sliced
1 red
pepper, deseeded and finely chopped
A
1-inch piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 or 2
chilies, deseeded and chopped
A
small bunch of fresh cilantro
1
heaped tablespoon Patak’s Madras curry paste
1
tablespoon tomato puree
Sea
salt and ground pepper
1
heaped tablespoon HP sauce
5 cups
organic beef stock
1/2 a
butternut squash (roughly 12 ounces)
A
couple of sprigs of fresh thyme, leaves picked
A
couple of pinches of garam masala
1 cup
basmati rice
Plain
yogurt, to serve
Directions:
Put a
large pan on a high heat and add a splash of olive oil and
the ground beef.
Cook
for about 7 minutes, stirring occasionally and breaking up
the beef, until it starts to turn golden and caramelize.
Stir in the onion, carrot, garlic, red pepper, ginger and
most of the chilies, and add a splash more oil, if needed.
Cut the top leafy section off the cilantro and put aside in
a cup of cold water for later. Finely chop the stalks and
add to the pan. Cook and stir for around 10 minutes on a
medium heat, or until the veggies have softened.
Stir
in the curry paste, tomato puree, a good pinch of salt and
pepper and the HP sauce. After a few more minutes, when it
smells fantastic, pour in the stock. Leave to blip away with
the lid on over a medium heat for 40 minutes, stirring
occasionally.
Meanwhile,
cut the butternut squash into 1/2-inch chunks, getting rid
of any seeds and gnarly bits (there’s no need to peel it).
Put a smaller pan on a high heat. Add a lug of olive oil and
the squash. Stir in the thyme leaves and the garam masala.
Pop a lid on the pan and cook for around 10 minutes on a
medium heat, stirring every few minutes, until softened and
golden. Add a cup of rice to the pan with 2 cups of water
and a good pinch of salt and pepper. Replace the lid and
cook for around 8 minutes on a medium heat, then turn the
heat off and leave to steam for 8 minutes with the lid on.
Fluff
up the rice and tip it into the soup. Have a taste, and
season if needed. Gently mix together, then divide among
your soup bowls with a good dollop of plain yogurt. Scatter
over the cilantro leaves and add a sprinkling of fresh
chili, if you like.
This
recipe is from "Jamie Oliver’s Great Britain,"
by Jamie Oliver (Hyperion, $35). Oliver delivers best of the
old and new (including classic British immigrant food) in
his first cookbook focused on England.
———
ROASTED
CARROT SOUP
Serves
4
Ingredients:
6 to 8
large carrots (about 1 3/4 pounds), peeled and cut into
1/2-inch-thick slices
1/4
cup olive oil
Salt
6 cups
vegetable stock, or as needed
A
1-inch-long piece fresh ginger, peeled
1
fresh thyme sprig, plus chopped thyme for garnish
1/2
large sweet onion, chopped
2
large garlic cloves, chopped
Freshly
ground black pepper
Directions:
Set an
oven rack 6 to 8 inches from the heat source and turn on the
broiler. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the carrots
with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and sprinkle generously
with salt. Broil the carrots until they brown and soften,
turning them over with a spatula every 5 minutes or so; this
should take 15 to 20 minutes.
Meanwhile,
bring the stock to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the
ginger and sprig of thyme, turn down the heat, and simmer
gently for 15 minutes.
Just
before the carrots are done, put the onion in a large
saucepan with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and
brown over medium heat, stirring frequently. Add the garlic
and cook for a minute, then add the carrots.
Remove
the ginger and thyme from the stock and add the stock to the
onions and carrots. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 to 10
minutes, until the carrots are very soft. Use an immersion
or a standard blender to puree the soup until smooth. If the
soup seems too thick, add more stock or water and reheat
gently. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Serve
garnished with chopped thyme.
This
recipe is from "The Food52 Cookbook, Volume 2: Seasonal
Recipes From Our Kitchens to Yours," by Amanda Hesser
and Merrill Stubbs (William Morrow Cookbooks, $35). Comments
from the online community and the book’s authors provide
cooks a handle on the recipe’s strengths and final outcome
and make the book an engaging read.
———
BOSKOS
MINESTRONE
Serves
15; yields approximately 1 1/2 gallons of soup
Ingredients:
1/2
cup oil (canola or a non-extra-virgin olive oil)
2
tablespoons chopped garlic
1
pound yellow onions, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1
large carrot, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/2
bunch celery, leaves removed, stalks cut into 1/2-inch dice
2
leeks, white part only, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/2
head green cabbage, chopped into 1/2-inch dice
2
tablespoons kosher salt
3/4
teaspoon white pepper
3/4
teaspoon red chili pepper flakes
3/4
teaspoon paprika
1
tablespoon dried oregano
1
tablespoon dried basil
1 1/2
cups crushed tomatoes
1/8
cup beef base
3
quarts chicken stock or water
1 cup
dry (or 2 cups cooked) cannellini beans
1
pound red potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch dice
3/4
pound zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/4
bunch (approximately 1 1/2 cups) fresh Swiss chard or
spinach
1/2
pound shell noodles, uncooked
Directions:
Start
with a large stockpot over medium-high heat; add oil. When
the oil is hot, add the garlic. Once the garlic starts to
brown slightly, add the diced onions, diced carrots, diced
celery, sliced leeks, and diced cabbage; cook for about 5
minutes, still over medium-high heat. Add the salt, white
pepper, pepper flakes, paprika, oregano and basil during
this first saute process — adding dry seasonings early
helps create layers of flavors in a dish. Be sure all the
vegetables become translucent before adding the water or
stock. Add tomatoes, beef base, and water or stock to the
pot with the vegetables; bring entire mixture to a simmer.
Meanwhile,
if using dry cannellini beans: Cook the cannellini beans in
boiling, salted water with a bay leaf until beans are soft
(approximately 20 minutes). Once beans are done (or if
starting with cooked beans), set half aside. Puree the other
half. Add the whole, cooked beans and the pureed beans to
the soup.
When
the soup comes to a simmer, add the potatoes. Let the soup
continue to boil for 5 minutes, then add the zucchini and
chard to the pot. Cook mixture for another 5 minutes.
Add
the shell noodles and cook for a final 5minutes. Adjust the
salt and pepper to your liking.
This
recipe is from "Wine Country Chef’s Table:
Extraordinary Recipes From Napa and Sonoma," (Lyons
Press, $24.95).
———
SHRIMP
STEW IN YUCCA AND COCONUT SAUCE
Serves
6
Ingredients:
1
small yucca, about 11 ounces
3
tablespoons dende oil (or vegetable oil)
1/2
cup chopped onion
1/3
cup chopped green bell pepper
1/3
cup chopped yellow bell pepper
2
scallions (white and green parts), chopped
2
stalks celery
4
cloves garlic, finely minced
1/2
cup white wine
2 cups
shrimp stock
1 cup
coconut milk
2
tablespoons tomato paste
1
pound shrimp, uncooked, peeled and deveined
Kosher
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2
tablespoons unsalted butter
Pinch
of ground nutmeg
3 plum
tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
1/4
cup fresh chopped cilantro
Directions:
To
prepare the yucca, cut off the ends of the yucca root and
make 3 to 4 vertical cuts from top to bottom with a paring
knife. Peel the two layers of the vegetable: the brown skin
and the inner white layer. Cut the yucca in half lengthwise
and remove the center woody fiber with a paring knife. Cut
the white flesh into 1-inch chunks.
Transfer
the yucca to a medium saucepan, cover with fresh cold water
by at least an inch, and add a good pinch of salt. Cover and
bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until
tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
Drain
the yucca and, while still hot, pass through a food mill or
ricer.
Place
the dende oil, onion, peppers, scallions and celery in a
large sauté pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until they
are soft and translucent, about 3minutes.
Add
the garlic and stir until it gets hot. Add the white wine
and reduce by half, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the shrimp stock and
coconut milk, then bring the mixture to a boil.
Reduce
the heat to low and add 1/2 cup of the mashed yucca and the
tomato paste and use a whisk to help dissolve them both into
the sauce. The sauce will start to thicken naturally; add up
to another 1/2 cup of the mashed yucca if necessary. Set
aside.
Season
the shrimp with salt and pepper on both sides. In a medium
skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the shrimp
and cook until they just start to turn orange, about 1
minute each side.
Transfer
the shrimp to the saucepan. Pour in any shrimp juices that
stayed in the skillet and braise the shrimp stew over very
low heat, covered, for 5minutes. Taste the stew and adjust
the seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Garnish with the
tomatoes and cilantro.
This
recipe is from "The Brazilian Kitchen: 100 Classic and
Contemporary Recipes for the Home Cook," by Leticia
Moreinos Schwartz (Kyle Books, $19.95).
———
CARAMELIZED
ONION AND SUN-DRIED TOMATO FLATBREAD
Makes
1 flatbread
Ingredients:
1 ball
fresh pizza dough
Olive
oil
1 red
onion, sliced
1
tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2
tablespoon ricotta
1
tablespoon jarred basil pesto
1/4
cup sun-dried tomatoes in oil
Directions:
Heat
olive oil in skillet and add sliced onions. Caramelize over
low heat until golden brown, stirring in the balsamic
vinegar toward the end of cook time. Roll out pizza dough to
a free-form oblong shape. Cover bottom of a cookie sheet
with olive oil and place rolled out dough on top.
Combine
ricotta and basil pesto and spread evenly over the dough.
Top with the onions and bake according to package directions
on prepared dough. Add the sun-dried tomatoes during the
last 5minutes, then continue to cook until top is golden
brown. Slice and serve.
This
recipe is from Modesto Bee Scene editor Pat Clark.
———
OREGANO
FLATBREAD
Makes
one flatbread
Ingredients:
1 ball
fresh pizza dough
Olive
oil
1/2
cup prepared pasta sauce
1
tablespoon grated Romano cheese
1
tablespoon dried oregano
Directions:
Roll
out pizza dough to a free-form oblong shape. Cover bottom of
a cookie sheet with olive oil and place dough on top. Spread
more olive oil on dough. Spread a light layer of pasta sauce
evenly over the dough and top evenly with the cheese, then
the oregano. Bake according to package directions on
prepared dough or until top is golden brown.
This
recipe is from Modesto Bee Scene editor Pat Clark.