lemons contribute their unique sweet-tart flavor to
individual lemon souffles. Food styled by Joan Moravek.
aptly named, is a slow, obligatory trudge. The scenery is
best indoors: cup, counter, cookbook. A moment startled, one
morning, by the buzzer; the man in the brown uniform handed
off a brown box. Small, heavy and postmarked California.
the tape, folded back the flaps and squinted into a blaze of
sunshine: seven Meyer lemons, straight from Ann’s tree.
they were orange-yellow bright; inside they were
orange-lemon sweet. I squeezed them down, stirred them thick
and poured the brilliant lemon curd into a glass jar. Back
then, my children were short and my refrigerator tall. I
chose the highest shelf.
afternoons I’d spring open the lid and spoon up one sunny
bite. Some I’d simply gaze at that fat jar of friendship
— all mine to savor.
6 small souffles
and sugar for pans
4 or 5
large Meyer lemons
cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cut up
Butter and sugar six 1/2-cup ramekins; set them on a rimmed
Zest 2 lemons. Squeeze as many lemons as needed to measure
¾ cup strained juice.
In a heavy medium saucepan, whisk together zest, lemon
juice, yolks, ¾ cup sugar and the butter. Whisk over medium
heat until thick, 10 to 12 minutes. Strain through a
fine-mesh sieve into a large, clean bowl. Let cool a few
Using a heavy-duty mixer and the whisk attachment, whip egg
whites until foamy. With the mixer running, cascade in
remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and continue whipping to
glossy white peaks, about 1 to 2 minutes.
Whisk a big spoonful of whites into the lemon curd, to
lighten it. Scrape in the remaining whites. Using a flexible
spatula, fold curd into whites. Do this gently, so as not to
crush the meringue and thoroughly, so as not to leave any
white blobs. Ladle into prepared ramekins.
Slide the sheet of ramekins into a 425-degree oven and bake
until golden and dramatically puffed, 8 to 9 minutes.
Mindful of the hot ramekins, enjoy right away.