Jolie stars in Disney's "Maleficent."
one of the most stylish Disney villainesses of all time.
With ruby lips, eyes perfectly rimmed in black, sharp,
high cheekbones and a show-stopping black dress, cape
and horns, Maleficent’s look is more than memorable
— it is iconic 55 years since "Sleeping
Beauty" debuted onscreen.
wonder then that Maleficent, the titular character in
the coming live-action movie starring Angelina Jolie,
has inspired one of the most extensive assemblages of
fashion and beauty tie-ins in recent film history.
Various elements of Maleficent’s look have been
translated into wearable items, from black-and-white
beaded jackets by Naeem Khan for HSN to a dragon-shaped
rhodium ear cuff with onyx and black diamonds from Crow’s
Nest Jewels to a M.A.C. red lipstick.
is fabulous," said Nancy Deihl, director of the
master of arts program in costume studies at New York
University. Maleficent, along with the Evil Queen and
Cruella de Vil, are the three fashion Furies, she said.
"While heroines are pretty, the villainesses are
what you call striking. You can even say beautiful, in a
certain way. Belle laide really applies to them. They’re
never going to be mistaken for the sweet heroine."
and other villainesses are glamorous in part because
"they have this power and knowledge" that
makes them attractive, Deihl said. "Glamour
requires a certain maturity rather than girlish
prettiness." For grown-ups, the stylistic appeal of
the live-action version of Maleficent is not about
viewing evil as glamorous as much as it is about
appreciating her sophistication and power, Deihl said.
to that Jolie’s star wattage and Maleficent is even
more alluring. "Angelina’s got it already, with
her very amazing face, her very prominent cheekbones,
her arched eyebrows," Deihl said. "These are
all the things that society regards as very
the film, Jolie’s beauty (notwithstanding the
prosthetically-enhanced angular cheekbones) combines
with Maleficent’s revisionist back story to make the
dark fairy much less malevolent and much more
sympathetic than her animated predecessor.
G, Jolie’s makeup artist, created the Maleficent
makeup look, which M.A.C. interpreted not only with a
blue-red lipstick called True Love’s Kiss but with a
whole capsule collection of makeup and nail lacquers,
including faux lashes, eyeliner and a black nail color
named Nocturnelle. For most of the film, the underside
of Maleficent’s nails was coated black, but the top
was painted in a pale pearlescent hue. M.A.C. also
created an online guide for which 19 products to use to
re-create Jolie’s Maleficent visage.
also was a natural fit for commercial reinterpretation.
Albarran, who designed Maleficent’s bracelets,
brooches, rings, collars and shoulder and spine pieces
for the film, used gold, brass, copper, various
leathers, feathers, precious stones and crystals to
create organic-looking and nature-inspired jewelry.
turn, London-based Crow’s Nest Jewels took themes from
the film, such as horns, thorns, dragons and feathers,
and fashioned them into a stunning seven-piece
fine-jewelry collection ($5,180-$20,880). Each item is a
statement piece, from the rhodium bangle with a
pear-shaped onyx, black diamonds and twin horns that
climb across the arm to the 18-karat ring with yellow
and red sapphires that evokes flames.
fashion jewelry companies are offering their versions of
jewelry influenced not just by Maleficent, the film
character, but also by the decorative elements of the
movie, including period-themed fabrics, embellishments,
design motifs and architecture. The black feather
necklace by RK by Ranjana Khan Jewelry for HSN ($239.95)
that mimics the feathers in Maleficent costumes is one
of the standout pieces.
clothing capsule collections, on the other hand, are not
so much a literal interpretation as much as they are an
evocation of Maleficent’s costumes in the second half
of the film, which shows Maleficent as an adult wearing
mostly black in "much heavier fabrics with lots of
volume" and "sculptural shapes,"
according to Anna B. Sheppard, costume designer. The
costumes, which include the dramatic pleated dress with
twin pointed collars in the famous christening scene and
the sleek catsuit-like ensemble in the climax of the
movie, are like couture, while the capsule collections
are the ready-to-wear counterpart.
Khan’s husband, designer Naeem Khan, whose dresses and
gowns have been worn by first lady Michelle Obama,
Carrie Underwood and Eva Longoria, has created for HSN a
black-and-white collection that references Maleficent
and Aurora so subtly, the clothes stand on their own
without association to the film. "I wanted to
create clothes that are fun and wearable without getting
too dark," Naeem Khan said. "You want to feel
that they’re part of the movie, but you don’t make
the clothes too evil. You want them to be glamorous.
Everyone has that badness in them, so I try to keep it a
little bad, but predominantly good."
example, Khan chose a pleated fabric that borrows its
origins from one of Maleficent’s dresses. He used that
fabric for the bodice of two black tops with an illusion
the other hand, some supposed "Maleficent" HSN
tie-ins are head-scratchers at best. A pastel
embellished chiffon tunic from DG2 by Diane Gilman and
an eggplant draped-front cardigan from G by Giuliana
Rancic under the Maleficent collection are just two of
many examples in the Home Shopping Network project that
make one wonder whether the designers for those lines
were thinking about an entirely different movie.
no question about the inspiration at retailer and
manufacturer Hot Topic, which is offering a combination
of T-shirts with artists’ renderings of
"Maleficent" scenes as well as several
all-black tops, bottoms and dresses, some of which are
accented with pleather. The most Maleficent-looking of
the bunch is a dress with a standup collar.
ideas were really coming from the movie costumers,"
said Cindy Levitt, senior vice president of
merchandising and marketing for Hot Topic. "Using
early footage and stills, our designers created clothes
that were inspired by the Maleficent and Aurora. But the
clothes are wearable – they don’t look like
Deihl said Maleficent’s style has long been in the
designer collections. "Alexander McQueen already
did a jacket with big horns coming out of the
shoulders," she said. "The Gothic, medieval,
horned woman is out there."
aforementioned jacket was from the fall 1997 collection,
but McQueen also designed a long-sleeved black dress
covered with duck feathers and exaggerated shoulders
that looked like wings in his famous fall 2009
collection dubbed the "The Horn of Plenty."
That ensemble also came with a feathered headdress, and
gave "the impression of a raven" as well as
that of a 1950s haute couture dress, said Andrew Bolton,
curator at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
recently, Christian Louboutin got into the Maleficent
spirit. When Jolie was in London for
"Maleficent"-related events, she wore two
pairs of custom Louboutin pumps — the first black, the
second white — with wedges sculpted to look like
of the film mostly show the Maleficent that we know as
vengeful and menacing. But the movie’s story of her
metamorphosis will likely make her an attractive, even
heroic character, much like Elphaba was in the book and
that will help fuel a demand for Maleficent-inspired
fashion is unclear. What’s evident is that those who
may want to channel their inner dark fairy will have
plenty from which to choose.
is not fashion, but fashion is costume," Deihl
said. "What we wear and how we go about every day
is a performance of our lives. Some people might decide
that they are in a Maleficent mood and they have to be
Maleficent for a day."