on the catwalk at the Max 'N Chester presentation,
Spring Summer 2017, on July 11, 2016 during New
York Fashion Week: Men's in New York.
years of form-fitting tailor-type threads, menswear is
taking a more relaxed, casual and androgynous approach
been seen throughout the offerings in Europe over the
past several weeks, and it was a reoccurring theme
during New York Fashion Week: Menís.
this mean the end of bespoke-looking ensembles that are
only wearable for those with a body type similar to Brad
Pittís in "Fight Club?" Absolutely not. But
donít be surprised when men wear garments with more
movement, color and other attributes traditionally
associated with womenís wear.
are some of the top menswear trends at last weekís
looks that were popularized last year ó in part
because of Jaden Smith and other gender-blurring
millennials ó were found in abundance throughout the
collections in Europe and New York.
Europe, J.W. Anderson and Gucci sent out models in flowy,
silk blouses, while Hood by Air showed skirts and
oversized and flowing overcoats.
week in New York, men wore tunics and wide-legged capris
at Max Ďn Chester.
dominated the exciting collection at Wood House. The
collection went so far as to include looks where scarves
were tucked into fedoras, giving the illusion that the
male models had long, bone-straight hair.
itís not likely that many of these complete looks will
be worn in everyday life, their influence will
undoubtedly creep into the wardrobes of the straightest
of straight men. For example, expect to see more men
building their ensemble with layered pieces. And donít
be surprised to see more men wearing looser, flared
pants and capris.
skin-tight suits and tapered pants are appearing to be a
thing of the past ó at least with the current crop of
first spotted the trend during the European shows. There
were the oversized grandfather coats that swallowed
models at Balenciaga. Hood by Air offered up a number of
loose-fitting, shapeless frocks. And Balmain peppered
its collection with looser ó yet still tailored ó
garments. Raf Simons and Christopher Shannon showcased
pants so large they might as well have had their own
New York, it was more of the same. Perry Ellis matched
looser outwear with more fitted pants, shorts and shirts
for a winning contrast. Most of the collection including
everything from shirts to pants at Wood House was
flowing and loose.
the European shows, Asian-inspired motifs and artwork
adorned a majority of the silken garments on the runways
of Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. And
Hawaiian landscapes decorated jackets and shirts at
Valentino and Dries Van Noten.
New York, where heartier fabrics reigned supreme,
designers decorated their creations with geometric
prints and landscapes.
David Hart for example. The Severna Park nativeís nod
to the 1960s California surfer era included bamboo
prints, surfboard motifs and airbrushed beach
palm tree-adorned blue-gray sports coat was Hartís
favorite from his collection, he said. "This
collection makes it super easy for guys to incorporate
into their wardrobe."
Europe, A.P.C. took a mechanic-inspired overalls
approach when it presented a dark blue-hued ensemble.
Dolce & Gabbana showed a great embellished trophy
jacket in dark navy. Louis Vuitton even presented
embroidered neckerchiefs in blue.
was everywhere in New York. From the blue seersucker
suits at Max Ďn Chester to an oversized blue, white
and orange layered ensemble at Wood House ó blue was
Ellis probably had more blue garments than any other
designer. There were a number of shorts in assorted
shades of blue; a multicolored, lightweight sweater that
was anchored by blues; and several blazers and dress
pants in blue. Everything was extremely wearable, which
will likely appeal to the widest base of customers.
Bastianís jazz-inspired collection was filled with a
bevy of blue. The color was used as a pop when he
incorporated a button-up with a khaki blazer or white
seersucker jacket. He also used it as a focal point with
a navy sweater adorned by a golden trumpet and with a
number of sport coats, which could either be dressed up
or worn casually.
collections were also white haute.
Europe, Topman showed plenty of tank tops, relaxed pants
and other sportswear ó mostly in white.
New York, Carlos Camposí runway show featured a number
of bright white head-to-toe looks. He also used the
color to pop out from darker jackets and tops.
Ďn Chester sent out a fleet of models dressed in
white-hued frocks, from cream-colored tunics to crisp
shorts and flowy linen pants.
which is led by founder and creator Greg Polisseni and
fashion director Andy Hilfiger, anchored the collection
with white staples such as pants, blazers, ties and