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WALNUT CREEK, Calif. —
Your hair color is fading, your unibrow is growing and
you desperately need a pedicure.
In the age of
do-it-yourself everything, you just need a refresher
course in grooming. Channel your teenage years, when you
and your girlfriends would host pajama parties just to
braid hair and paint toenails. To help, we've gathered
tips from Jessica Aguallo and Lisa Anderson, instructors
at Marinello Schools of Beauty in Concord, Calif.
They have a combined 40
years of experience in cosmetology — Anderson owns
Diva Styles salon in Oakland, Calif. — and are
proponents of using ingredients found in your cupboard
or pantry to maintain hair, skin and nails. As our
professional appointments become less frequent, we
decided to get tips from these experts on grooming at
home.
FACIAL
Anderson has been giving
herself facials using natural ingredients for years. She
recommends the following basic facial once every one to
two weeks. All you need to know is your skin type —
normal, dry, or oily.
—Cleanse face with
whatever you normally use. "Stay away from harsh
soaps," Anderson says. She's a fan of softening
bars, such as African black soap, or products by Eucerin
or Neutrogena that won't overdry skin.
—Once your skin is
clean, make a natural steam to open up pores, she says.
Bring a quart of water to a boil and pour into a bowl.
While still steaming, place five tea bags — Anderson
recommends camomile or peppermint — in the bowl, throw
a towel over your head and breathe in the steam for
three two-minute increments.
—Time to slough off
those dead skin cells. Make a scrub by mixing granulated
sugar with olive oil. The consistency is up to you.
"Just make sure it's not too gritty," Anderson
advises. Rub the mixture on your skin and lips in an
upward motion, massaging gently for one minute. Those
with oily skin should focus on the T-zone. Rinse off.
—Use a mask to close
your pores. "If you have dry skin, use a thick face
cream as your base and add a few drops of lavender
essential oil," Anderson says. Oily types can make
a mask from dry oatmeal and an egg white. Once you
attain a consistency that is sticky, apply evenly to the
face and leave on for 15 minutes.
—Your last step is
toner, which seals your pores. Anderson makes her
astringent by mixing 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice with two
teaspoons cold water. "Pure witch hazel or apple
cider vinegar on a cotton ball works as well," she
says. "So does plain old ice water." The true
last step? Sunscreen. Never leave home without applying
it to your face.
NAIL CARE
Manicures are hardly the
most expensive part of a beauty regimen, but every penny
counts. You can do this simple nail care system as often
as you like.
—First, clean up nails.
Clip and shape them, making sure to file one corner at a
time and even out in the middle. "Do not file
straight across because that splits the nail,"
Anderson says.
—Make a nail
conditioning treatment by using a few drops of olive oil
or your favorite essential oil. Saturate cotton balls
with the oil and press against each of your nails. Wrap
your finger with the cotton ball and cover in tin foil.
"This allows the oils to penetrate your nail plate,
which keeps the nails healthy and prevents
hangnails," Anderson says. Leave them on for five
minutes, then remove. Wipe clean.
—Anderson doesn't
encourage pushing back cuticles, unless you know how.
"The white moon shape area, the lunula, is where
the nail grows from," she explains. "If you
push it down too far, you can damage your nail growth.
You can also get a lot of hangnails."
—The best way to make
your nails look great is to buff them. "Buffing is
very underrated," Anderson says. "I don't
think people realize how shiny their natural nails can
be." Get yourself a soft buffer and run it several
times along the entire surface of your nails in circular
motions.
—Apply base coat, two
coats of your favorite polish and follow with top coat.
To pamper dry skin in winter, Anderson likes adding a
few drops of olive oil to body lotion and applying that
to her hands and feet at night. She puts on socks and
mittens and goes to bed. In the morning, hands and feet
are soft and smooth, she says.
HAIR CUT
Aguallo is not a big
advocate of cutting one's own hair. But if you have to
do it, keep a low maintenance haircut that's one length,
she says.
—Bangs can be easy to
trim at home when it's absolutely necessary. Invest in a
quality pair of shears, which should cost about $15 at
most beauty supply stores, she says. Again, wear your
bangs long.
—To cut, wet hair and
comb all bangs forward. Gather in the middle and decide
where you want them to hit when they are dry. Cut across
carefully and slowly. Touch up when dry.
—Because the sides
"traveled farther," they'll be a little longer
and will frame the face nicely, Aguallo says. She
recommends a bias bang — which can be pushed off to
either side — because it falls evenly both ways.
HAIR COLOR
Women have long colored
their hair or touched up their roots at home. It's not
difficult. Just find a color you like and make sure to
wear gloves and a cape to cover up while you apply
color, Aguallo says.
—Here's an easy color
tip: If you're just touching up your part until you see
your colorist, you can buy color wands at most
pharmacies. They work like mascara on the hair, Aguallo
says. Since they wash out, wands are best for short-term
touch ups.
—If you're touching up
the outgrowth at home, follow the directions on the box
of color. But do not apply the color to your previously
colored hair. It will cause a color build up on your
ends, resulting in color saturation there. Instead, if
previously colored hair needs to be refreshed, comb
color through the ends during the last five minutes of
the coloring process.
—Need a simple way to
prolong color? Use a shampoo and conditioner with
pigment in it. They come in all colors — blonde, red,
and shades of brown. Also, Aguallo adds, use a shampoo
free of sulfates, the ingredient that strips hair of
color.
—Because roots are so
close to the scalp and heat permeates from it, you can
develop "hot roots," where the color ends up
lighter, Aguallo says. To avoid this, apply color a
half-inch from the scalp. Then, go back and apply color
to the scalp.
—Finally, if you're
covering gray, start your color application process in
the front, as this area is usually the grayest, Aguallo
says. "Gray hair is resistant so you should leave
the color on 45 minutes from the time you last applied
the color," she adds.
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