She
was thin, swan-necked with wide-set eyes and chiseled
cheeks.
And
taller than you'd think-5 feet 7 inches.
No
style icon, with the exception of Jackie Kennedy, has
been so deconstructed.
Her
winsome appeal is timeless, So take from Audrey what
you will.
And, of
course, make it work.
___
"Breakfast
at Tiffany's"
Black
pumps, black dress, pearls, earrings, hat. Using these
five elements, a slip-wearing Holly Golightly
effortlessly dresses in less than five minutes - not
counting hair and makeup. Who wouldn't be fabulous
with this foolproof formula?
Christian
Louboutin patent leather kitten heel pumps, $565, at
Barneys New York, Chicago. Erickson Beamon pearl and
rhinestone earrings, $505, at Ikram, Chicago.
___
"Funny
Face"
Discovery
of a new "girl" turns a regular Jo Stockton
into a photographer's muse-and off the Paris she goes.
But once the cameras retreat and the lights dim, who
is she left with? Be true to yourself. A clutch, a
scarf and dark glasses won't change who you are but
will enhance what you're wearing.
Christian
Louboutin silk crepe clutch, $990, and Tom Ford
sunglasses, $450, both at Neiman Marcus, Chicago.
___
"My
Fair Lady"
Confounded,
Professor Higgins asks why a woman can't be more like
a man. But he couldn't have really meant that. After
all, he has grown accustomed to the face of the
butterfly Eliza Doolittle in all her Edwardian finery
of silks, ribbons, rhinestones and earrings.
Lanvin
silk ribbon and rhinestone belt, $730, and Erickson
Beamon pearl and rhinestone earrings, $505, both at
Ikram, Chicago.
___
BEHIND
THE SCENES
We
learn the most about that Audrey Hepburn mystique
through her filmwork.
Movie
critic Michael Phillips comments on three of his
favorites.
Singing
"Moon River" on a New York City windowsill,
wearing a sweatshirt, jeans, a head scarf and a
lovelorn air, Hepburn made an ordinary look seem
extraordinary in its reverse-chic. Truman Capote's
character Holly Golightly may have been sanitized for
the movies, as was the backstory on George Peppard's
leading man, but for once in the history of Hollywood,
the original trailer ballyhoo didn't lie. Hepburn
"typifies and glorifies the glamorous playmates
of this dizzily spinning world," according to the
1961 trailer. Not even Mickey Rooney's racist hamming
as "Mr. Yunioshi" could dent her charm.
Golightly
is a portrait in self-creation. As with certain other
high-end superstars (such as Cary Grant, who was
nearly her co-star in both "Roman Holiday"
and "Sabrina"), you sense Hepburn's own
self-creation at work in every scene.
By the
time "Funny Face" was released in 1957,
Hepburn was spoofing her royally pristine image. She
wore a black turtleneck and beatniked around a Paris
nightclub. She became modeling clay in the hands of
Fred Astaire, playing a fashion photographer patterned
after Richard Avedon (who consulted on the picture).
"I don't want my hair cut!" Hepburn's Jo
complains early on. "I don't want my eyebrows up
or down! I want them right where they are!" The
world didn't listen. Audiences delighted in Hepburn
the chameleonic fashion plate.
With a
score by the Gershwins, and Kay Thompson thinking 15
different shades of pink as the doyenne of the fashion
magazine employing Astaire, "Funny Face" may
not scale any choreographic heights. But it's a
musical about design whose leading lady is a
designer's dream.
"Not
bad. Not bad at all." Rex Harrison's Henry
Higgins ekes out the compliment as Hepburn's Eliza
Doolittle descends his staircase, prior to the Embassy
Ball sequence. It is an understatement.
Costume
designer Cecil Beaton never had a more exquisite
clotheshorse than Hepburn, and among the cinema's
greatest collaborations - Alfred Hitchcock and Bernard
Herrmann; Buster Keaton and porkpie hats - the matchup
of Hepburn and Beaton is hard to beat. Is the 1964
film version (many-Oscared, including a win for Best
Picture) a classic? Not quite. It's too tempting to
contemplate what Vincente Minnelli, the originally
scheduled director, could've done with the material.
George Cukor did well enough, but mainly he rolled out
the time-tested, stage-honed material in stately,
hands-off fashion, staying well out of his performers'
way.
But
what performers.