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PETIONVILLE,
Haiti
— Lured by the hand-sewn gold sequins with hints of
red and green, and the warm hues of brown and orange
hanging off a stranger's arm, the stylishly dressed
woman with the closely cropped hair plowed through the
crowded hotel lobby like an entranced fashionista hot
after a must-have.
"Is
that? Is that ... a VeVe? she asks, her voice tinged
with a bit of uncertainty as if her curiosity could no
longer withstand the suspense.
The
"VeVe" handbag is more than a glittery fashion
statement. Inspired by Haitian Vodou designs, it's an
emblem of identity in the shape and scale of an open
Birkin bag that is quickly making a name for itself and
its
Haiti
-born designer.
"This
is a good everyday bag,"
Phelicia Dell
, 38, says modestly, about her traditional yet modern
handbags, which retail between
$70 and $120
, and are winning accolades in and out of
Haiti
.
With bags
large enough to carry to the market but sophisticated
enough for an evening on the town, Dell's "VeVe
Collections" (www.collectionveve.com)
has become a statement of the ingenuity and creativity
of Haitian artisans.
Her own
journey from struggling artist to sought-after handbag
designer in just four years is itself a story about life
after tragedy, and about what women in poor countries
can do once empowered.
Earlier
this year, Dell was selected as the best emerging
handbag designer after winning the Diane von Furstenberg
global handbag design competition.
An
American fashion icon best known as the creator of the
ever-popular hip-hugging wrap dress,
von Furstenberg
asked thousands of women to create a bag reflective of
their country's local traditions, based on identical
patterns. She launched it through
Vital Voices Global Partnership's
artisan program. The nongovernmental organization,
co-founded in 1997 by then first lady
Hillary Clinton
, works to empower women in 120 countries.
"Each
bag is made by hand,"
von Furstenberg
told
The Miami Herald
, "and I think that makes each piece have a special
emotional connection to its origins."
Von Furstenberg
said Dell's winning design, a handcrafted clutch in a
neutral tone with a painted design paying tribute to the
love and strength of Haitian women, was modern but true
to Haitian traditions.
"She
was able to perceive and translate the directions of our
design team and that she showed a great attention to
detail and was involved in the whole process are all
important qualities for a designer to possess,"
von Furstenberg
said.
Dell, who
first competed among Haitian designers to represent her
Caribbean
homeland before beating out women from
Guatemala
,
Nigeria
and
Cambodia
, still is wowed by the fact that
von Furstenberg
"fell in love with the design."
"It
feels good to have somebody recognize your work,"
says Dell. "It helps me understand that I need to
help others through my own work. I feel a bigger sense
of responsibility."
That need
to help others has taken Dell from being a one-woman
designer to an employer of 13 artisans who help craft
her bags "from soul by hand." Though she often
seeks inspiration from
Haiti's
Vodou culture, some bags are inspired by love and
nature.
A single
mother, Dell left
Haiti
when she was 15 and moved to
Miami
, where she graduated from Miami Edison Senior. She
found tepid success as an artist, singing love songs to
a Zouk melody before falling in love and moving back to
Haiti
.
But the
love story would be short-lived. A year after Dell gave
birth to their daughter, her boyfriend and partner —
he built houses, she decorated them — was kidnapped
and killed. Heartbroken, but determined to raise her
child in
Haiti
, Dell wondered how she would survive. One day, she
finally noticed the fabric flooding her living room.
"I
thought to myself, 'What the hell am I going to do with
all of this fabric?' I didn't want to do decor anymore,
and I didn't want to sell them," she recalls.
One day,
she started pulling the pieces together. After months of
trial and error — and giving away lots of free samples
to friends — VeVe Collections was born.
"I
didn't have enough fabric to make two, three or four
bags. That is why most of my bags are unique
pieces," says Dell.
For
years, Femmes en Democratie,
Haiti's
Vital Voices chapter, has struggled to create a market
for female Haitian entrepreneurs like Dell beyond the
upscale boutiques of tony Petionville, and sparse
tourists spots of Labadee and Jacmel.
But other
than the occasional artisan fair, the group has found
little success beyond
Haiti
and its
Caribbean
neighbors.
Danielle Saint-Lot
, a co-founder of Femmes Democratie, hopes Dell's
success will change that.
"For
Haitian artists and business promoters, this award by
Phelicia shows us that our culture is what make us
unique and competitive in this changing world,"
says Saint-Lot.
Femmes en
Democratie supports a network of 50 women-owned
enterprises, artists and designers and 20 associations
of women artisans from throughout
Haiti
by providing them with training, opportunities, access
to finance and markets.
"Our
goal is to have our women designers and artists unlock
their potential and enter the global market," says
Saint-Lot, who owns six VeVes including a beaded green,
yellow and red one she sported last month to go hear
former President
Bill Clinton
speak at a Haitian Diaspora conference in
Sunny Isles Beach, Fla.
"Phelicia is paving the way. As she always says,
there are hundreds of unknown Phelicias in
Haiti
."
Dell's
winning designs told a powerful story about women in
Haitian society, through Ayizan, the guardian of the
marketplace in Vodou culture. "She's an old woman
who owns a lot of money but everything she has is for
her to give away," Dell says. "She protects
families, like abused wives."
Both the
story and designs resonated with
von Furstenberg
, who ordered 200 of Dell's clutches as part of a
limited-edition collection for her DVF stores. The bags,
said a DVF spokeswoman, are now mostly sold out; only a
few remain in
London
and
Paris
shops.
Less
intricate than the larger handbags, the DVF collection
of clutches retails for
$50
.
"People
are very interested in the story behind the things that
they buy and where they come from," said
von Furstenberg
.
Daphee
Surpris, a
New York
attorney who spotted a bag at the Clinton speech,
agrees. She calls Dell's VeVe bags "a conversation
piece."
"Once
you see it, you recognize it," said the
self-professed handbag aficionado, who fell in love with
the collection while visiting
Haiti
over the summer. "It's fun, and very versatile.
It's sophisticated enough for you to carry out to
dinner, or to carry to brunch with your friends, and
professional enough to go hear
Bill Clinton
speak."
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