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With the
price of gold hovering around $1,660 an ounce, it’s no
wonder there’s been a surge of interest in other
metals for use in jewelry.
The
prices of silver (about $30 an ounce) and copper (about
$3.50 a pound) make them more appealing to some
jewelers. And then there’s brass, which jewelers
typically buy in sheets priced around $12 a pound.
Accessories made from the alloy of copper and zinc are
experiencing a new popularity, popping up at stores and
boutiques where shoppers who haven’t been paying
attention might expect to find gold or gold layered over
silver.
Kelly
Wearstler’s new West Hollywood store is full of brass.
The interior designer with the relatively new fashion
label sells vases, bowls, letter openers, sculptures and
jewelry. There’s even a back scratcher in brass. She
says she loves the metal’s aged-looking patina and
warm tone.
“Brass
is a good, inexpensive alternative to gold,” says
gemologist Larry Platt, co-owner of Platt Jewelry
Boutique in West Hollywood. “People would typically
use sterling silver if they’re trying to cut costs,
but everyone has been so into the look of yellow gold
lately, and brass has a warm, gold tone to it.” He
adds that for the first time in many years, the price of
yellow gold has surpassed even the price of platinum,
which is about $1,498 an ounce.
“The
costs of silver, gold and many other traditionally used
components have skyrocketed over the last few years, and
brass has become a good choice for making jewelry,”
says Karen Giberson, president of the Accessories
Council. “Everyone from the Etsy.com craftsman to
major contemporary jewelry designers is using it in
their collections.”
Prices of
brass jewelry are wide-ranging. On the website
Accessoryartists.com, for example, prices range from $40
for a brass Buddha pendant to $1,700 for a more
elaborate tiered statement necklace.
New
York-based jewelry designer and metalsmith Anna
Sheffield uses brass as well as gold and sterling silver
in her line Bing Bang and gravitates to brass for its
versatility.
“Brass
is actually a really lovely material to work with,
coming from a metalsmith background,” Sheffield says,
adding: “It has a beautiful yellow color when
polished, it can be luxe when it is lightly brushed, and
oxidized brass has a nice antique brown quality or black
tones in the recesses.”
Brass
works for strong statement pieces such as chunky cuffs
and thick hoop earrings. Wearstler offers an array of
brass pieces; among them, cuffs topped with natural
agate stones set with thick prongs. The combination of
stone and brass in the bracelet feels earthy, not
precious, which means it’s as easy to wear with a
casual button-down shirt and jeans as it is with a dress
and heels.
Raven
Kauffman’s “crocodile skin” embossed cuffs, made
from reclaimed brass, have been crafted to show lots of
texture and design; the metal appears opaque, rather
than shiny, which means the overall look is more chic
than superhero. Her jewelry is sold online.
A.L.C.,
sold online and at Barneys New York, has a different
take on brass jewelry. The screw-top tennis bracelet
feels dainty, even though its primary design motif
evokes building materials. Brass “handcuff” earrings
are shiny and bold. And for those who want to wear their
brass in an unexpected way, Monika Chiang sells sleek
wedge sandals and a flat version with brass ankle cuffs.
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